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I gutted most of the "previously dead" cab. I wanted to note that the Sega base had its mounting plate and was extremely touchy as well as the others. Even when there was no strain on it or the jamma harness.


I would love to know the best way of cleaning this connector.

The 'Sega Base' is a .156" 36 way edge connector - I'm replacing mine with this one

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/edac-inc/307-036-500-202/EDC307360-ND/107617

307-036-500-202.jpg


It's not the original part but it should be compatible (and it's green!)
 
could post a picture of the tongues for the locks.
I just ordered some locks and im sure it has the wrong tongues
 
I placed the doors on and noticed I am missing x2 change bucket doors and x2 Jamma service doors.

I didn't see any yaton stock. Do you guys know where I may be able to find some or are you willing to part with yours?




@Kavas
I took the foot rests back to the powder coater and gave them $100 to re-do them without so much orange peel. They said if they use a finishing grit and less Super chrome it will look much better and more like my yen shoots and yen covers.


could post a picture of the tongues for the locks.
I just ordered some locks and im sure it has the wrong tongues
Here you go @jermz1

 
I think were all gonna come up lacking with something from the batch that we got these from. Once mine is caught up to yours ill be sure to take stock of what I need and if I have extras of anything. I think I have a bunch of those tongues but maybe enough only for the 3 doors. I don't have any locks. It was all just a mess in the bottom.
 
@hoagtech thanks definitely helps.
Sorry I believe I ordered the last listed change bucket from yaton. I'd message him
 
I installed the coin mechs.




Yen “Chutes”



I got 3 panels in. The River City CP is next,



Before and after (River city shown)



Just for kicks. I received a new top panel Aero CP screw set and installed a panel with it to look at.


 
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I got the last of my artwork and arranged my graphics guys to come out in the next couple days and apply them.

I decided to finish assembling the chassis's on all 4 Aero City.

The machine that used to have Cherry Master in it was misconverged. I looked up the yoke ring order and got it looking better.

Also messing with the focus on the flyback helped.



Aero #4 was next and looked brand new with little calibration. The lighting is crazy in the shop and pictures don't do it justice.



The one I call "The dead one" (26SE) unfortunately was having severe hold issues that could not be remedied by adjusting the V or H hold. Also the colors were off.

I let it warm up and pressed the deguass button and heard a loud pop from the neck and smelled like burning plastic. ;( There was no sign of life in the monitor and also blew the 4A fuse on my PSU board.

I would love to know what caused this.



After replacing the fuse. I hooked up the Aero #4 chassis.

It looked good but blurry so I turned the focus knob all the way towards sharp and have a sharp image for a few seconds.

After warming up it would continue to go blurry and with no more pot adjustment there was nothing I could do.

Do flybacks cause out of focus? and if so where could I buy one?



The first 2 were a triumph followed by a tragedy and I'm hopeful I can fix the focus issue on #3
 
Flybacks control focus, yes. Hopefully a new flyback sorts number 4.

I'm happy for 1 and 2, but 3 is definitely sad T_T.
 
Focus comes from a division of the high voltage generated by the flyback, so if it's drifting, it could be that the divider is bad internally. The MS8-26 flybacks are generally pretty sturdy, so it would be an odd case if that turns out to be it. It's not impossible for it to be the tube, either, but continual drifting would be strange.

By any chance, did you clean the CRT neck, and is there a chance the pins are wet? I've had a bit of residual water be on the focus pin while powering up a tube, which resulted in awful focus that slowly got better as the water started to boil by the pin (lol).
 
Focus comes from a division of the high voltage generated by the flyback, so if it's drifting, it could be that the divider is bad internally. The MS8-26 flybacks are generally pretty sturdy, so it would be an odd case if that turns out to be it. It's not impossible for it to be the tube, either, but continual drifting would be strange.

By any chance, did you clean the CRT neck, and is there a chance the pins are wet? I've had a bit of residual water be on the focus pin while powering up a tube, which resulted in awful focus that slowly got better as the water started to boil by the pin (lol).
Thanks mike.

No I did not clean the neck.

It was blurry before too

 
Good news.

The graphics guy killed it. Thank you "Stickers for Days"

Here is Carlos hard at work.



Aero all "graphic'd" up



Closeup of Gate Ninety's CP surround. They were thick and well made



Another work shot of the CP



Next up: Bezels and Glass.
 
Hey Hoagtech....they wouldn't be willing to sell one of the panel suround stickers on its own, and ship it out to Texas, would they?
 
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