Candy Cabs Aero City Glass Screen Covers and Bezels Hoagtech's PLOG.

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    • Thanks for the kind words guys.

      A little update on the foot rests.

      Here is one of my butt ugly footrests to reference the color, rib width and treads on the Aero.



      My son saw them in my truck, held them up and said: "What are these dad? Eww their gross looking.." so it's a verified problem.

      Originally I was going to find something close and cut it to size. I found a wide ribbed material but they didn't stock it in grey so I ordered a pt. of rubber Marine paint in a light gray.



      The more I thought about it. The more it bugged me the decision I made.

      Soo....

      I got ahold of a rubber flooring manufacturer in Shenzen and gave him exact dimensions of rib and tread width and come up with this:

      This Color:



      This Style with custom rib and tread width:



      His min order qty was 150cm x 2 km and only wanted to mail a swatch... Unghh

      I told him I would pay for airmail and wanted a larger size and convinced him to do a 150cm x 2M run and airmail it.

      He agreed and a close to 1:1 is on its way from china!

      I am going to to take them to my stickers guy and use his print cutter to cut to exact sizes.

      I have enough for x51 Repro Aero foot rests panels which I will hook up APeople with.

      The rest will be sold on ebay to help recoup my repair costs.

      What do you think?

      Edit: changed first page of my thread to an Aero City foot rest interest.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by hoagtech: Changed first page of thread to foot rest interest page. ().

    • New

      I cleaned the glass and the bezels were missing black in a lot of areas.

      They used a black grime grease to fill in the missing spots and leaves behind a smokestack on your hands when you touch it.

      I was going to take a razor and scrape the bezel line to the interior shape and use gloss black to fill in the missing pieces. I was worried my brush strokes would show through the glass and abandoned the idea.

      Instead I called Carlos from "Stickers for Days" and he is having decal bezel ordered and will be transferring with "gloss black adhesive".

      He insisted it would look perfect and I believe him. He quoted me at $30 per panel for new Bezels.







      On a side note. My monitors all seem to make a click noise which shows up as a flicker of video every 8 or so seconds.

      I stuck my ear next to the yoke and traced the noise to inside the flyback transformer.

      My test setup PSU is grounded but the grounding cables are not and I'm not using the 100v step down converter because the converter is not grounded and I haven't robbed my plug ends to ground it internally.

      Do you think the noise would be caused by a ground issue?

      On both my monitors I use for testing I tested volts at 5.06 on 1 and 5.16 on the other. The voltage screws were inside the case so I shrugged it off for the time being but fixing that clicking issue will make me feel more comfortable hooking up my expensive PCB's.
    • New

      Kavas wrote:

      I use a step down converter in all my Japanese consoles and equipment despite there being multiple people claiming it will do them no harm to run on American AC. Doesn't hurt nor cost that much.
      I have 9 Japanese cabs in my garage right now, none running on a step down converter. Astro City, Neo Candy, New Net City, Vewlix, none of them care. Multiple people claim it because it's supported by years and years of experience.

      As you say, it doesn't hurt to do it if you want to for some reason. But I don't think it's helpful to suggest that anyone should try and fix problems with their cabs by doing so without some kind of evidence that it's relevant. As far as I can tell it's just a way to waste money, short of someone showing me otherwise.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Aurich ().

    • New

      Aurich wrote:

      Kavas wrote:

      I use a step down converter in all my Japanese consoles and equipment despite there being multiple people claiming it will do them no harm to run on American AC. Doesn't hurt nor cost that much.
      I have 9 Japanese cabs in my garage right now, none running on a step down converter. Astro City, Neo Candy, New Net City, Vewlix, none of them care. Multiple people claim it because it's supported by years and years of experience.
      As you say, it doesn't hurt to do it if you want to for some reason. But I don't think it's helpful to suggest that anyone should try and fix problems with their cabs by doing so without some kind of evidence that it's relevant. As far as I can tell it's just a way to waste money, short of someone showing me otherwise.
      Hello Aurich, I hope your having a great day!

      I was on my phone at the time of that response so it was brief. My suggestion was aimed at eliminating any variables to his noise issue and I thought he was asking whether he should use one. I do not know if it would help but these tubes specify on the back to use 100v



      When I read a few years ago what would happen to my Japanese Famicom and Sega Saturn if I plugged them into my 110v mains when they expect 100v, the answers on different forums was that it should be fine due to their being something inside them to help regulate the voltage (VR?) and to expect extra heat from the console and/or the power supply especially the large power bricks of older consoles.

      Due to his bad luck with his Raiden cabinet and Tetris boards, and my assuming he is newish to this hobby like me, I felt it was a safer call to recommend using his step down. The additional benefits of him having another fuse in the chain outside his cabinet is also nice. He mentioned a noise coming from his flyback which I think handles voltages? So my newbie opinion was to feed it something it likes. In this hobby everything is very strict. uF on caps, 5.00 volts on jamma boards, proper shielding on cabling, etc etc so forth, yet when it comes to 110v vs 100v it seems to be a very dismissive attitude for some reason. You wouldn't plug a Japanese 100v into a 220v Euro outlet would you? You say I suggested anyone should try to fix problems with their cabinets with proper voltages but I did not, nor did I say anyone should, but it was implied he should try it because he asked about it. Are you dragging me into some war?

      I still say try the 100v step down converter and try to get the suggested grounding issue sorted out. Since no one stepped in thus far with useful advice on the matter, and he is my Aero City brother in arms I thought I would throw out a suggestion. He has already spent a ton of money on this project, going so far as to order new rubber mats from China which are non critical to the function of the cabinet and spending extra money to re-chrome his plates because they were a darker tint. I think he is going for proper authenticity. 100v satisfies that.
    • New

      Thanks guys.

      I was hoping you could afford to get the foot plates chromed. Mine were just redone at the powder coater.

      They look much better now.

      I have x2 step downs (I own a sharp X68000 and MSX2+) but they both don't have a ground on the plug or the input so I need to lop a cheap extension and attach them to ground So I can plug my 3 wire into it. I just need to do it.

      I am hoping some of the wires added for majohng control and multiple Mahjong sub boards aren't fucking up my control harness.

      Some boards make my speakers crackle and others don't. And every time it does the 8 second glitch I hear a little chirp from the crackle in my speakers.

      I am hoping by eliminating all variables I can fix the issue and start gaming while I wait for my mats.
    • New

      hoagtech wrote:

      Thanks guys.

      I was hoping you could afford to get the foot plates chromed. Mine were just redone at the powder coater.

      They look much better now.
      It's not a matter of money, it's that my guy recommended I don't do it. He said the chrome paint never looks as good and honestly my chrome parts look fine to me.

      My rubber strip also looks in great condition after I cleaned it up.

      I installed cap kits on my monitor and psu last week. Just waiting on a few more quotes for the sanding from people as I don't believe the guy I talked to was that confident on doing mine as good as someone else. After that I will join you in the fun of rewiring this beast :thumbsup:
    • New

      Oh also, while researching the monitor caps, I noticed people on other forums complaining about some resistors being fussy and needing different values. Think it dealt with fold over problems.

      And for me one capacitor in particular was not what the cap kit recommended. It called for a 10uf 25v cap, but mine was a 10uf 50v and I've seen others claiming there's was a 10uf 100v and recommended using the higher voltage in that spot. Not sure who did your caps but id be interested if everything was as it should have been. Probably unrelated but something to note while I still remember.
    • New

      A little update on the foot rests.

      After they agreed to send me a 2Mts sample for $400 including shipping.

      They replied and said they didn’t have any stock of light grey in the wide ribbed, thin tread style...

      And to do a production run would cost me $59,660!

      I was heart broken after taking interest from members.

      I finally resolved it and had them agree to do a tiny production run for $600 plus the $400 for the fabric including airmail.

      After thinking about centering the cuts I don’t think I’ll be able to get x51 out of it more like x40.

      My goal was going to be $20 a foot rest but as promised I’ll hook up AP at cost at $25 per rest and sell them for $44 on eBay to recoup a little costs.

      It was a close call but the foot rests are coming yay.

      I’ll keep you guys updated when I get tracking
    • New

      Kavas wrote:

      I use a step down converter in all my Japanese consoles and equipment despite there being multiple people claiming it will do them no harm to run on American AC. Doesn't hurt nor cost that much.
      Anyone who says it doesn't make a difference as a blanket statement is grossly misinformed. Egret 2 for example, the PSU is linear based. If you don't believe me go measure the 5v load at 120 AC. Then plug it into a 100V stepdown. It will be lower. For the monitor it is hard to say. In theory it is putting more stress using 120AC vs 100AC on the components but most are rated for it.

      The default PSU 5V will vary based on the AC input voltage. I had mine running for several years before it killed one of my boards (gladiator) due to the AC input fluctuating. It only needed to go up to 130ish ac. Pro tip surge protection clamps at 330V usually, sometimes lower. Only way to get around that is a online UPS.

      A switching PSU on the other hand doesn't give a shit. They will work fine from 90ish volts all the way to 130, depending upon the model. It is one reason I upgraded to a MWP 606 along with the safety features a switching power supply provides.

      The japanese consoles like famicom, super famicom, pc engine all have voltage regulators on them. So more heat will be produced on there. If you use a JP brick expecting 100v AC on 120 Ac for example it will output around 20% more volts from my measurements. The original JP PSU hooked up to 120AC would make the console extremely warm after 20-30 minutes. With a proper US PSU it would remain cool for hours. Pretty much accomplish the same shit with a stepdown converter and using the og psu.

      For later cd based consoles most used switching power supplies afaik and would gladly accept 100v-120v from what I've seen. But check just to make sure.
    • New

      ChuChu Flamingo wrote:

      Kavas wrote:

      I use a step down converter in all my Japanese consoles and equipment despite there being multiple people claiming it will do them no harm to run on American AC. Doesn't hurt nor cost that much.
      Anyone who says it doesn't make a difference as a blanket statement is grossly misinformed. Egret 2 for example, the PSU is linear based. If you don't believe me go measure the 5v load at 120 AC. Then plug it into a 100V stepdown. It will be lower. For the monitor it is hard to say. In theory it is putting more stress using 120AC vs 100AC on the components but most are rated for it.
      I know this is the old wisdom, but... I'm pretty sure the Egret II PSU is of a switching design. I can crack mine open to double check, but to use a linear PSU in something like this seems bonkers, especially for one of that size. Maybe the open-frame style is different, but I'm speaking of the closed-frame design.

      As for the MS9, the MS9-29SU was sold for use in North America with no modifications to the power supply section, and the first thing the MS9 does is employ a regulated switching power supply. There should be no concern about running the MS9 on North American mains voltage.