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Sega Aero & Goldfish Catcher ATM

The Sega base harness that plugs into the jamma harness.

It was a mess in there but all connectors were seated and soldered connections looked good.

I grabbed each wire from the back of the connector and wiggled and jammed it in there and it seemed to make the issue go away.

I think the pins in the base might not have enough spring tension on them. I might go in there with a floss pick and try to bend them down.

For now the issues gone and it sounds, looks, and plays great on the cherry master

I played one token of Gunforce and got my ass kicked by the first boss. I love this game.

 
I got 2 @hoagtech I wasnt sure of quality so I played it safe. They are supposed at port on 26. But I probably wont be able to pick up till week after.

What kind of wiring did you find in yours I bought 1 whole harness from yanton and a coin bucket door and I got a aero plug to jamma off yaj
 
@8bitforlife

2 out of 4 had Sega to jamma harnesses. I ordered x2 more from France.

My wiring had the three plugs for the 2p CP all under the CP where they should be. It was simply plug and play (and plugging in the harness, which was a B)

I can’t speak for the jamma wiring in the other 3 cabs because I haven’t been able to get past the cleaning phase.
 
I decided to work on the Astro City.

I went to plug it in and it plays blind.



The seller apologized for the "mixup" and said he was willing to work with me and offered to recap my chassis.

My "pussy" gloves



The scary part



Off to Rosemead CA

 
So the Sega connector was giving more problems.

It would reset my game. Certain directions and buttons wouldn't work. The loud buzz would be there or audio wouldn't work at all. The image would be dim and then bright.. ETC

I pulled up the 18 pin Sega and Jamma pinouts and decided to chop the adapter and wire the cab to full time JAMMA.




It took me 2 hours to strip and join x36 wires from the 18 pin base to the Jamma connector.



I hooked up my Test-ris board and the image was fantastic. Buut... the loud buzzing noise was back and my game reset randomly.



My guess is the solder in the molex connectors is cracked. The connections for speaker - and + are not connected just audio ground and audio +.

Should I chop the connectors and wire them directly?

and what might be causing my game to reset?
 
dumb question but is it hot in your warehouse? Resetting could be happing because over heating. Iv experienced this before. Did you clean the jamma edge pretty good? Is your 5.0v and 12v constant? Is your cab properly grounded and not super charged?
 
hoagtech said:
My guess is the solder in the molex connectors is cracked. The connections for speaker - and + are not connected just audio ground and audio +.

Should I chop the connectors and wire them directly?

and what might be causing my game to reset?
Click to expand...
A few points.

The molex connector should have crimped connections, not soldered ones. It is possible there is an issue here but I doubt it.

As for the connections, you should be using JAMMA speaker +/-. Audio signal and ground pins (next to them) are rarely used in JAMMA titles, and they are usually not suitable for driving a speaker.

I don't suggest chopping any further connectors.

A game reset is likely unstable +5VDC, a voltage being off, or poor contact (which causes symptoms similar to the first two).
 
8bitforlife said:
dumb question but is it hot in your warehouse? Resetting could be happing because over heating. Iv experienced this before. Did you clean the jamma edge pretty good? Is your 5.0v and 12v constant? Is your cab properly grounded and not super charged?
Click to expand...
It's freezing in this warehouse. (41F).

I've bean meaning to check the ground and psu.

The crackling goes away when I jiggle the molexes.

Ill take a reading and find out.

The plug doesn't have a ground on it (2 prong).

What makes an Aero grounded?
 
can switch a different cord with ground? if not i bought like 5 of the 2 prong to 2 prong with wire ground for down converters. Most cabs have a ground point with all the grounds screwing into it.
 

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Thanks I found my ground point and crimped a fork onto the ground and attached it to the ground screw.




The issue is still there.

I went to test my PSU and found it doesn't have open screw terminals.

How am I gonna test this under load with no PSU screw terminals?

 
Better, you should test at both the power supply as well as at the board. Any significant voltage drop could point to a problem in your wiring harness.
 
i would still get that connector if your using a down converter. or wire a 3 prong. or it might be your wires like mike said
 
I’m gonna sneak in the warehouse on Friday. Happy Thanksgiving AP
 
I ran a multi meter across the jamma edge and outside edge of psu.

The psu readings were

+5 = 4-6 volts

-5 = -4-6v

+12 = 11-13 volts

Jamma edge:

+5 = 4-6 Volts

-5 = -4-6v

+12 = 11-13 volts.

I couldn't get a stable reading it was a constant 1-3 volt variable.
 
The PSU needs to be measured under load. You need to plug in a board. Use something power hungry like a CPS2 board to see the voltage drop.
 
nem said:
The PSU needs to be measured under load. You need to plug in a board. Use something power hungry like a CPS2 board to see the voltage drop.
Click to expand...
I did. I had Tetris hooked up.

It’s a small board though.

The image was no longer present and turned into rolling slanty lines over a grey blue background. I couldn’t jiggle it back.

I jammed my meter points into the edge of the JAMMA while it was hooked up.

I have an STV multi that might use more power.
 
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