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I honestly dont know if itll plug into the blast io. that looks like a remote wire. The cab doesnt come with one you'll have to get someone to make you a arpicade to cn8
 
theres a connector on the io board for kickharness.
i believe cn8 is the kick connector for blast.
Nope, as previously stated, the kick harness goes to cn8 on the cab's IO.
Okay so I found where it goes on the IO. Would this loose connection be where the other end connects?
@Lemony Vengeance should get you what ya need.
That cable is for the remote board, which should be bolted to the cabinet frame from the inside, and you should be able to see it under the control panel. make sure it's plugged in.
 
theres a connector on the io board for kickharness.
i believe cn8 is the kick connector for blast.
Nope, as previously stated, the kick harness goes to cn8 on the cab's IO.
Okay so I found where it goes on the IO. Would this loose connection be where the other end connects?
@Lemony Vengeance should get you what ya need.
That cable is for the remote board, which should be bolted to the cabinet frame from the inside, and you should be able to see it under the control panel. make sure it's plugged in.
So that connector should be plugged in somewhere?

Funnily enough, I watched a video of yours on youtube going over the kick in the blast. You had added an extra piece that you make. My plan is to add and ArPicade. Would that piece help me?
 
@MeNewVegas I literally told you what you need. An arpicade to blast io cn8 connector.

That other picture of cable is a remote cable for your nanao chassis for other board.

A ether you disconnected it or b someone changed monitors in the past and didnt bother removing an old remote cable.

If the remote in control panel has a cable fallow it back in the cabinet see were it leads.
 
@MeNewVegas I literally told you what you need. An arpicade to blast io cn8 connector.

That other picture of cable is a remote cable for your nanao chassis for other board.

A ether you disconnected it or b someone changed monitors in the past and didnt bother removing an old remote cable.

If the remote in control panel has a cable fallow it back in the cabinet see were it leads.
ah okay sorry. Very new to this so I may miss some things.


The person did swap the monitor. The original died so he replaced it with a Nanao MS9. He let me test it and it was working running MvC PCB.
 
here is the picture of the arpicade that's the pinout I do not know what connector is required
 

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I forgot how many good games are on the 360.
Are there hacked fully cooked images out there these days for Arcade cabs?
Can you put SSDs on these now?
I put together a "arcade game only" C drive for a soft mod 360. All the arcade style input games comes out to like 32 gigs.

Issue is finding all the title updates and dlc. It's been awhile I can't remember. You can use duckduckgo for that. some title updates fix issues with frame rates ect.

I looked into "cloning the C drive" same problem you get with everdirves. the dashboard is hard to navigate with a lot of games so i wanted make different drives with different game genres and just power cycle and switch the HHD out.

Its not as easy as copying all the directories. I got someone else to soft mod my box and I have a hard time following the online tutorials with all the made up words used for mod lexicon.

If you find a good TUT on how to clone a 360 HHD, please share.

SSD? I don't see why not. even if it's loose there are no moving parts. just put some Velcro on it.
 
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For the easiest solution I would get the Pandora Box 6 (the pink one).

It comes with 1300 games, and there is a "Community Collection" of rom's you can add to the USB drive for 1254 more games.

With 2554 games on it, and for the cheap ass price they go for, it can't be beat for quick and easy games.

I love mine.

Although, it's not Jamma, but Chamma, so you may need to buy an adapter.

But if you know what you are doing, I'm sure MAME is a lot better.

:D
 
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The "option" connector is the kick harness :
IMG_1118.jpg


If you want to stay "factory" you need a 10 pin AMP male connector like this, with some pins
IMG_1119.jpg


This connector outputs to the CN8 connector on the IO board where you would connect this kick harness to a CPS2 board:
IMG_1121.jpg


like so:
IMG_1120.jpg
 
The "option" connector is the kick harness :
IMG_1118.jpg


If you want to stay "factory" you need a 10 pin AMP male connector like this, with some pins
IMG_1119.jpg


This connector outputs to the CN8 connector on the IO board where you would connect this kick harness to a CPS2 board:
IMG_1121.jpg


like so:
IMG_1120.jpg

Is the option connector I already have plugged in sufficient, shown in my CP pictures on the previous page.
 
Is the option connector I already have plugged in sufficient, shown in my CP pictures on the previous page.
As has been already said, you need two wiring harnesses. One from the game motherboard to CN8 on the Blast IO, the other from the AMP 10-pin AUX connector to the controls.

You have the latter, however, looking at the photo you posted you have only two wires coming out from the connector. You want the full six (technically 8, as two are GND).
 
Is the option connector I already have plugged in sufficient, shown in my CP pictures on the previous page.
As has been already said, you need two wiring harnesses. One from the game motherboard to CN8 on the Blast IO, the other from the AMP 10-pin AUX connector to the controls.

You have the latter, however, looking at the photo you posted you have only two wires coming out from the connector. You want the full six (technically 8, as two are GND).
okay cool. What is the better option, to order a new AMP 10-pin AUX connector or get the wires into my current connector? What tool would I need to get them into the connector?

As well one thing I just remembered from testing the can. The second buttons for P1 and P2 didn’t work, only 1 and 3. Is that a wiring issue or is that how MvC is programmed?
 
okay cool. What is the better option, to order a new AMP 10-pin AUX connector or get the wires into my current connector? What tool would I need to get them into the connector?
It looks like someone snipped off wires going into it, so it's probably easier to get a whole new connector.

You just push the pins in the connector. They will lock in to place.

As for MvC, sounds like a wiring issue.
 
okay cool. What is the better option, to order a new AMP 10-pin AUX connector or get the wires into my current connector? What tool would I need to get them into the connector?
It looks like someone snipped off wires going into it, so it's probably easier to get a whole new connector.

You just push the pins in the connector. They will lock in to place.

As for MvC, sounds like a wiring issue.
awesome! Looks like I will get the new 10 Pin Aux and a kick harness. Thanks for your help! I may be back if I face issues.
 
okay cool. What is the better option, to order a new AMP 10-pin AUX connector or get the wires into my current connector? What tool would I need to get them into the connector?
you want that BCT-1 blue crimper showed on on this page, which also shows more info that you ever wanted to know on how to do a connector crimp ! :)
 
You have the latter, however, looking at the photo you posted you have only two wires coming out from the connector. You want the full six (technically 8, as two are GND).
It's very possible it all works as is, because you'll find some cabs have wired buttons 4 and 5 on the main connector, and only 6 off the kick harness.
 
You have the latter, however, looking at the photo you posted you have only two wires coming out from the connector. You want the full six (technically 8, as two are GND).
It's very possible it all works as is, because you'll find some cabs have wired buttons 4 and 5 on the main connector, and only 6 off the kick harness.
When I go downstairs once the kids are in bed I will see if the spare button connection are wired to the main connector. If they are do I need to move them to the option?
 
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