- Thread starter hursit
- Start date
Sweet. Are you able to source those for US too?Easy for you to say. You do know that the K7000 and compatible tubes are absolutely impossible to find in Europe? @hursit would be screwing everyone in Europe over if that were true.
Anyway, I remembered wrong, the mounting points are actually different:
Easily fixed with a drill though.
As for the width, the side bars are removable if needed and you could put a smaller tray for the chassis if those are issues. As for depth, the MTC-9000 with a TTD A48 tube is actually shorter.
If a K7000 with the original frame fits in the repro cab, give me 15 minutes and I'll throw a MTC-9000 in. If the cab comes with its own frame, then this is completely inconsequential. A 48cm tube is a 48cm tube. A Hantarex MTC-9000 will fit, end of.
This made me relieved a bit
I won't be sourcing them for anyone. I need the ones that I already have.
Anyway, the Hantarex isn't great for you guys in NA, because the neck connector isn't common in your TV tubes. For anyone in Europe, they're awesome. I haven't yet found a 20" TV that didn't have a compatible tube and yoke. TTD, Samsung, Nokia, Ekranas, Videocolor, they're all good.
Tecknoservice on eBay has these chassis for 110 euros delivered. Not a bad price. Replace the flyback with a HR7025 and you're golden.
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We have checked it with @deibit and it looks like Hantarex is not compatible with original mini cute design because of the Depth of the Tube.
But MTC9000 looks ok.
After the first prototype i will take care about the Europan Monitors . Dony worry
Well, the MTC9000 is from hantarex 
It’s just that the Polo/2 and the Polo/3 might be too deep for the case.
but that’s for the 20” and 21” models, smaller ones (Hantarex or Intervideo) should fit.
does someone have the exact diagonal in cm of the original 18” monitor?
There are 17” arcade monitors around, might be a perfect match for the cute.
It’s just that the Polo/2 and the Polo/3 might be too deep for the case.
but that’s for the 20” and 21” models, smaller ones (Hantarex or Intervideo) should fit.
does someone have the exact diagonal in cm of the original 18” monitor?
There are 17” arcade monitors around, might be a perfect match for the cute.
Bad_Hambre
Student
K7000 chassis requires an isolation transformer.
How the hell is that possible? With no frame, surely it depends on just the depth of the tube? Again, for the 6th time, a 48cm tube (20" European) is a 48cm tube. A 51cm tube (21" European) will not fit, not because it's too deep (it probably isn't), but because the diagonal is too large.Well, the MTC9000 is from hantarex
It’s just that the Polo/2 and the Polo/3 might be too deep for the case.
Since @hursit has designed his own frame which the tube will bolt on to, I don't see how the monitor make and model comes to this discussion at all. I guess if the monitor had a huge fucking neckboard on it (like the D9500, maybe), that could be a problem, but a Hantarex certainly doesn't have, Polo or MTC9000. The neck connectors on the neckboards are more or less the same size. I don't know that any monitor has an unusually deep one. The components on the neck board are all on the tube side, there's nothing on the solder side, ever.
???
If a K7000 tube will fit, a Hantarex compatible one will fit too. If a Hantarex one doesn't fit, guess what, a K7000 tube will not fit either. You can't have one without the other.
I have cracked open close to a dozen European 20" TVs. While I certainly haven't measured them with a caliper, none of them have been super deep. They're all more or less the same size. If you by sheer luck got one with a long neck, then just move on the next one.
https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?p=484955#p484955
Above is the first three 20" tube swaps I did.
The problem is the depth from the front glass to the back of the chassis / tube PCB.
a standard (with “standard” I mean: no tube swap) 20” Polo has a depth of 464mm The MTC9000 has a depth of 442mm
according to hursit measures the maximum depth that the design can take is 450mm.
In the end is less than 2cm I still think that there must be a way to fit it without increasing the cab depth.
since the hantarex dimensions are very well described in the service manual, I would propose to build a cardboard model of the Polo monitor and just check (I have two NOS polo/2 and Polo/3 in case some more detailed measures are needed)
but for that we need the final cab first...
a standard (with “standard” I mean: no tube swap) 20” Polo has a depth of 464mm The MTC9000 has a depth of 442mm
according to hursit measures the maximum depth that the design can take is 450mm.
In the end is less than 2cm I still think that there must be a way to fit it without increasing the cab depth.
since the hantarex dimensions are very well described in the service manual, I would propose to build a cardboard model of the Polo monitor and just check (I have two NOS polo/2 and Polo/3 in case some more detailed measures are needed)
but for that we need the final cab first...
The front glass is inconsequential. You have to measure from the dog ears to the back of the neck with the neckboard on. That's the only measurement that matters as long as we're talking of 48cm (20" European) tubes.
The measurement from the manual is NOT accurate for this case at all. It includes the original frame. The frame is way deeper than the tube. Look at my pics a few pages back.
Saying some monitor works, and one doesn't, is just bad advice.
Also, Hantarex paired these monitors with whatever tubes were available at the time. I've had Hantarex monitors with Videocolor, Nokia, Orion and Philips tubes.
@hursit has said that he had 48cm TV tubes. Just throw all of those with the original TV neckboard in. If they're of different brands and they all fit, you can make a reasonable conclusion that most tubes will fit, and ergo, most monitors will be fine too.
This isn't hard, guys. Really.
The measurement from the manual is NOT accurate for this case at all. It includes the original frame. The frame is way deeper than the tube. Look at my pics a few pages back.
Saying some monitor works, and one doesn't, is just bad advice.
Also, Hantarex paired these monitors with whatever tubes were available at the time. I've had Hantarex monitors with Videocolor, Nokia, Orion and Philips tubes.
@hursit has said that he had 48cm TV tubes. Just throw all of those with the original TV neckboard in. If they're of different brands and they all fit, you can make a reasonable conclusion that most tubes will fit, and ergo, most monitors will be fine too.
This isn't hard, guys. Really.
Ah well, with a complete reframing, every 20” monitor in the world is going to fit for for sure, no discussion about it.
I was just comparing unmodified chasis. In theory an un-modified MTC9000 could fit. But of course it’s hard to say without proper test.
the hantarex manual measures are accurate (in my case at least). They don’t consider the tube but only the frame size (which is always the same for a specific model)
the original frame is of course bigger than the tube (logically). But it’s not *way* deeper as you mention, it’s exactly 2cm in case of the Polo
I was just comparing unmodified chasis. In theory an un-modified MTC9000 could fit. But of course it’s hard to say without proper test.
the hantarex manual measures are accurate (in my case at least). They don’t consider the tube but only the frame size (which is always the same for a specific model)
the original frame is of course bigger than the tube (logically). But it’s not *way* deeper as you mention, it’s exactly 2cm in case of the Polo
In this case, 20mm is a lot. On average I expect there to be less variation between tubes from different manufacturers.
The discussion over unmodified monitors (if you call them that) is moot. Hursit has designed a frame for the tube and it's not an optional extra. IMO it's the absolute best solution for this problem. Screw the original frames.
By the way, your tube is a Samsung. See how Hantarex paired their chassis with whatever tube they got their hands on?
The discussion over unmodified monitors (if you call them that) is moot. Hursit has designed a frame for the tube and it's not an optional extra. IMO it's the absolute best solution for this problem. Screw the original frames.
By the way, your tube is a Samsung. See how Hantarex paired their chassis with whatever tube they got their hands on?
Kidkaos
Grand Master
I don't think the question has been posed yet, but what size stools are ideal for this? 43cm?
Also, anyone with access to a fabricator that can possibly replicate or repro candy cab stools? I paid $190 for a nice bench style and recently dropped $250 for used authentic Taito 43cm stools. I have a need for 6 more and DO NOT intend on spending $750 on 3 more pairs.
I also have a had back so no I won't use the $6 ikea Marius style stools.
Just a thought while we wait on the cutes.
Also, anyone with access to a fabricator that can possibly replicate or repro candy cab stools? I paid $190 for a nice bench style and recently dropped $250 for used authentic Taito 43cm stools. I have a need for 6 more and DO NOT intend on spending $750 on 3 more pairs.
I also have a had back so no I won't use the $6 ikea Marius style stools.
Just a thought while we wait on the cutes.
