This is probably the best idea.
Making it taller/wider would be fine for people who don't already have them, but would look super weird next to anyone's existing one.
- Thread starter hursit
- Start date
Making it taller/wider would be fine for people who don't already have them, but would look super weird next to anyone's existing one.
We really need to decide what we want as a group. This cab isn't a "one size fits everyone's needs".
We decided a while ago that the 19" monitor is where we are going and we knew upfront this cab isn't 100% original.
I have no problem sending hursit my frame, and I can send him my Egret 2 side art as well. I'll try to take some measurements this evening.
The exterior was to be as original up until today. If an internal door isn't quite perfect, or mounting needs to be changed: no big deal at all. The exterior changing is less than ideal.
Since the crt is angled back, the bottom is pretty close to front. But most likely there is probably still room enough. Anyone have good pics of the K7000 mounted in its frame??
I think this can probably be solved most likely by hursit remaking the mounting frame or adjusting the mounting brackets on the cab itself. Is it narrowed down to the K7000 only, or others as well? Like the K4600/K4900??
Is it any of these? Both?
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We dont have any problem with bottom. Normally the monitor is fititng inside the cabinet but the Metal Frame is problem. They say it wont work without it.
And what do you think about this idea ?
if it doesnt work without the metal frame , what happened i make a new Frame for this monitor ? But this time the right and left metal parts will be shorter ? I think it can be fit into the cabinet ( I will be sure after i get the total size for these parts )
Do you guys think, it will work ?
And the original bezel is 3cm high. I can make it 2cm and it looks will be ok for the Back door too.
ım talking about these parts.
To attach these frames into the cabinet is easy part .
If you look at the drawings, particularly the width, there is no way the K7000 will be able to go in with the OG frame without making the cab wider. The K7000 frame has flaps that fold outward at a 90 degree angle for mounting. So the K7000 will need to go in without the OG frame, hursit will then have to make a chassis tray or a new frame/chassis combination. That is fine and I've discussed this with hursit. As for design choices,
Given that, I have some work to do. To take accurate measurements, I must do this on a level surface with the screen face down on that surface. And because the screen is curved, I have to find some 1" rubber rectangular tubes to keep the monitor in that position stable and level. The measurements can't be accurate if things are not level. From there I will need to take these measurements:
With Frame:
- We should agree that it should be built around the K7000 for longevity: highly studied, readily available parts, easily repaired
- We should keep the height and width the same. If any dimension needs to be enlarged, should be the depth by about 1" at most, IMO
Given that, I have some work to do. To take accurate measurements, I must do this on a level surface with the screen face down on that surface. And because the screen is curved, I have to find some 1" rubber rectangular tubes to keep the monitor in that position stable and level. The measurements can't be accurate if things are not level. From there I will need to take these measurements:
With Frame:
- Total depth - done 17 5/8"
- Depth to back of frame
- Width of back of frame
- Depth from front of screen to frame mounts
- Frame mount spacing
- Frame mount hole size
- Length of wires from chassis to neckboard
- Total Length of wires
- Length from FBT to anode cup
- Total length of anode wire
- Total depth - done 17 5/8"
- Depth to from front of screen to tube dog ear mounts
- Dog ear mount spacing
- Dog ear mount hole size
So am I taking measurements or not?
I think we got too many Chiefs and not enough Indians.
Take them. Two eyes are better than one. Tolerance can be built in from different sets of measurements.
And we are both Indians. The Chiefs are the guys commenting in the thread with no investment or plans for investment in the effort.
And we are both Indians. The Chiefs are the guys commenting in the thread with no investment or plans for investment in the effort.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
So,
I want to clear the air here. I've received several PMs from people. A few were from folks who were showing support in me saying something and one was a PM sent from @hursit to a user. In the PM, @hursit continued to bad mouth me (Yes, I know you do this often when I'm around). So, why not do it out in public?
@hursit I've never once called you a scammer, nor have I said you would not deliver on a product you make. I do think that you make a little side hustle off of other peoples work (Capcom, Madcatz arcade stick design) and lifted artwork from people. I don't honestly care at this point if you're going to admit it or not, nor do I care if you like me. I don't like you and I wouldn't buy a product from you if you were the only seller in town.
Now that that's out of the way, I made the post this morning with the intentions of actually helping you out. Somehow over the course of 8 months you've managed to overlook something that should have been a first step in the design process. I brought this to the attention of @rewrite yesterday and he shared it, as I knew your little suck ups would quickly flame me. From five minutes of looking at what you shared I could clearly see that you're mounting the monitor from a frame that simply doesn't exist on most (if any) 19" monitor. How this wasn't caught sooner, I don't know. I also clearly stated in my reply that you're going to run into these problems but "your going to figure them out", again not badmouthing you. I offered other advice, which I'm sure will fall on deaf ears.
I am glad that I spoke up, however this will be the last time I post in this thread. I saved you a ton of headaches and you simply run your mouth about me, to complete strangers. Maybe if you focused on your project as much as you seem to focus on talking shit you'd have something that could actually fit a monitor in it
I want to clear the air here. I've received several PMs from people. A few were from folks who were showing support in me saying something and one was a PM sent from @hursit to a user. In the PM, @hursit continued to bad mouth me (Yes, I know you do this often when I'm around). So, why not do it out in public?
@hursit I've never once called you a scammer, nor have I said you would not deliver on a product you make. I do think that you make a little side hustle off of other peoples work (Capcom, Madcatz arcade stick design) and lifted artwork from people. I don't honestly care at this point if you're going to admit it or not, nor do I care if you like me. I don't like you and I wouldn't buy a product from you if you were the only seller in town.
Now that that's out of the way, I made the post this morning with the intentions of actually helping you out. Somehow over the course of 8 months you've managed to overlook something that should have been a first step in the design process. I brought this to the attention of @rewrite yesterday and he shared it, as I knew your little suck ups would quickly flame me. From five minutes of looking at what you shared I could clearly see that you're mounting the monitor from a frame that simply doesn't exist on most (if any) 19" monitor. How this wasn't caught sooner, I don't know. I also clearly stated in my reply that you're going to run into these problems but "your going to figure them out", again not badmouthing you. I offered other advice, which I'm sure will fall on deaf ears.
I am glad that I spoke up, however this will be the last time I post in this thread. I saved you a ton of headaches and you simply run your mouth about me, to complete strangers. Maybe if you focused on your project as much as you seem to focus on talking shit you'd have something that could actually fit a monitor in it
And I greatly appreciate it, because if you hadn't, we'd run into an awful mess /after/ it can't be remedied.
I don't have any American cabs, I've owned all of one in my life and I sold it when it wouldn't fit up my stairwell. No part of me expected that the frame may actually matter, since it doesn't on any monitor I've worked with. I was asked if the tube fit, and it did. So I thought we were off to the races.
But we still haven't established:
Can the K7000 be run without its frame? Some of those WG models mount the HOT to the frame, and/or use it as the chassis' primary ground.
K7000 runs fine without the frame. HOT is attached to the heatsink on the chassis.
Do the K7000s need iso transformers?? If so, then these frames should not be grounded to the cab correct or not?
Yes, they do. The K7000 manual is available online with all sorts of info like this. I think everyone interested in one should give it a look over.
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YES YOU NEED AN ISO. THESE SHOULD BE AC WIRED FOR A FULL GROUND AS WELL FOR THE ISO. Otherwise, the ISO is a paperweight.
I am getting tired of wannabe monitor experts on here.
WG4600s were mentioned and the confusion is that frame is used for the interface board and needs to be properly regrounded on top of using an ISO Transformer.
The K7000s need an ISO or you are gonna have ppl blowing chassis.
@DecepticonZero and others are not derailing the damn thread. You guys are not listening to the concerns. You just think they want to "Destroy the Project".
Months of working 80HRS+ a week on salary with COVID has me on the edge. But some of you just aren't listening at all.
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They absolutely DO require ISO transformers.
I've discussed this with hursit and will give him measurements of some ISO transformers. K7000 ISO transformers come in slightly varying dimensions. But they are all pretty similar in dimension. I mentioned to him that they are usually found near the AC input on US cabs and are earth grounded along with the PSU. K7000's tend not be be earth grounded to the frame, with the exception of 90's Williams/Midway cabs. You can always tell a K7000 that was used in such a cab (MK's, KI's, Blitz's, etc.) because the AC connector has a 3-position AC connector. All the rest, use 2 position connectors. But I have seen plently of non-Williams/Midway cabs have earth ground to the K7000 frame and even more with no earth ground to the frame at all.
@rewrite, here is further proof that K7000's run fine without a frame. Believe it or not, that is an OG K7000 frame for a 25" cab. Came out of a Dynamo Big Boi. The metal you see there is only for structural support of the tube. There was no grounding to the metal aside from the DAG wire via grounding strap->dog ears->structural support. As for the where the chassis mounts, it is jut partical board. That plastic guide you see there is just a standoff. The same one you find on a metal K7000 frame to keep the solder side from shorting out on the metal frame. Here in the Big Boi, it is just used as a fastener for which it did the job well. This monitor hosted Raiden II in TATE. I was pretty astonished to see this frame when I pulled the monitor out of this cab.
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@DecepticonZero Man, im glad you are back. Im sure all here are thankful for the input, and it is always welcomed, whether positive/negative or anything in between. Not my project, but I rather people ask a million questions to the point of being annoying even and things are done right the first time and everyone is on the same level, understanding clearly exactly what they are getting and are happy, than there are no questions that are asked and most, if not all, are disappointed with the end product, lose $$$/time, get no product, etc...
Myself, I have never seen a WG 19 monitor/tube/chassis/frame so I have nothing to reference, so like probably most here, I would go with the opinions of the creator and the people chiming in on what would work/wouldnt, etc.... So yeah, I would say everyone values your input, I know I do, on this if you have the knowledge which you clearly do.
So..., it would be great for anyone with something to say to just say it. This is an open forum, we may not agree and sure we might get pissed off about certain things, but in the end there is a good community of people here willing to help out in any any way they can. Some of the stuff that has been or is being created probably would not happen if it were not for this site and the people involved in it. I for one would really like to see this project happen and that it is done right.
So what grounds the tube?
Thank you for clarifying some things.
The K7000 grounds the tube to the chassis though, yeah?
I've actually seen K7000 cabs ungrounded work fine. But they always scare the heck out of me. Usually, an earth ground is ran up to the one of the rear screw fasteners of the chassis. So you have ground from dog ears->dag wire->neck board->chassis->earth ground.
