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How is 19” k7000 stock in Spain?

It’s pretty low and burned here in the US.
I'm not the person to ask but ebay and two more local craiglist-like sites aren't returning anything significant.
I'm sure there's people more in the know here who have access to that exact monitor but it doesn't look like they're widely available.
 
Forget about k7000 in Europe.. You are going to get more lucky with Hantarex or Intervideo.
 
20" MTC-9000 is the one you want to get in Europe. Same mounting points as the K7000.

Excellent chassis. Once you replace the flyback it's super reliable. Replacement tubes are very common too.
 
What’s the depth (from the frame to the back) of that K7000?
This might have gotten lost with all the flaming in the last posts... but since now we seem to be back on track.... someone has an answer to this? (I mean the standard factory K7000)
I got them. But as far as CRT's goes, the repro is designed for the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000. No point posting tube measurements.
These are my 4 leads.
Please help
On the top, one pin is neutral. The other 4 hots for 100/110/120/130 VAC for use with a wide array of monitors. The important thing for the K7000 is that it is ran off an ISO. I don't know off the top of my head is proper VAC for the K7000, but check the manual. Then use a meter to find the proper VAC. Sometimes volages are stamped on the frame of the ISO and you might miss it at first glance.

I've litterally seen K7000's ran at each one of the 4 voltages listed above, which is probably why the chassis dies so often (operator's specials!).
Can someone please confirm the the pin count on the K7000 tube to see if were dealing with 2 different neckboards?
8-pin
I may need to sweet talk the dump guy again..
I wouldn't bother. The repro is designed to work with the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000. Checking the dump implies you are going to tube swap. The repro is designed to work with the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000.
just chiming in with some positive vibes to say that despite technical difficulties this project looks awesome.
I'm based in europe and would have to buy one with monitor since I'm not experienced enough to deal with this kind of hardware.
I don't own a cab because I can't deal with the high maintenance but I can see this being a great way to get started.
Ufortunately the cabs are BYOM at the moment.
A new or used monitor option would be awesome.

Hopefully we can do some prelim tube swap work to the point we have a solid plan of attack.

How is 19” k7000 stock in Spain?

It’s pretty low and burned here in the US.
Chassis are plentiful however. And you don't need the frame because the repro will have a K7000 compatible frame for use specifically with the repro. So now you just need a compatible yoke. Specs of which you can find here.

Don't bother with tube swapping, it is going to be a dice roll. The repro is designed for the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000.
Forget about k7000 in Europe.. You are going to get more lucky with Hantarex or Intervideo.
Forget about the Hantarex or Intervideo. The repro is designed for the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000.
20" MTC-9000 is the one you want to get in Europe. Same mounting points as the K7000.

Excellent chassis. Once you replace the flyback it's super reliable. Replacement tubes are very common too.
Forget about the 20" MTC-9000 too. The repro is designed for the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000.

Anyone see a repeating theme here?
 
I think we see your point, but we are stubborn and we want to use the cab with monitors that are not the k7000 :)
It may be trial and error then. We'll have to see how things work out.
 
What’s the depth (from the frame to the back) of that K7000?
This might have gotten lost with all the flaming in the last posts... but since now we seem to be back on track.... someone has an answer to this? (I mean the standard factory K7000)
I got them. But as far as CRT's goes, the repro is designed for the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000. No point posting tube measurements.
These are my 4 leads.
Please help
On the top, one pin is neutral. The other 4 hots for 100/110/120/130 VAC for use with a wide array of monitors. The important thing for the K7000 is that it is ran off an ISO. I don't know off the top of my head is proper VAC for the K7000, but check the manual. Then use a meter to find the proper VAC. Sometimes volages are stamped on the frame of the ISO and you might miss it at first glance.
I've litterally seen K7000's ran at each one of the 4 voltages listed above, which is probably why the chassis dies so often (operator's specials!).
Can someone please confirm the the pin count on the K7000 tube to see if were dealing with 2 different neckboards?
8-pin
I may need to sweet talk the dump guy again..
I wouldn't bother. The repro is designed to work with the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000. Checking the dump implies you are going to tube swap. The repro is designed to work with the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000.
just chiming in with some positive vibes to say that despite technical difficulties this project looks awesome.
I'm based in europe and would have to buy one with monitor since I'm not experienced enough to deal with this kind of hardware.
I don't own a cab because I can't deal with the high maintenance but I can see this being a great way to get started.
Ufortunately the cabs are BYOM at the moment.A new or used monitor option would be awesome.

Hopefully we can do some prelim tube swap work to the point we have a solid plan of attack.

How is 19” k7000 stock in Spain?

It’s pretty low and burned here in the US.
Chassis are plentiful however. And you don't need the frame because the repro will have a K7000 compatible frame for use specifically with the repro. So now you just need a compatible yoke. Specs of which you can find here.
Don't bother with tube swapping, it is going to be a dice roll. The repro is designed for the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000.
Forget about k7000 in Europe.. You are going to get more lucky with Hantarex or Intervideo.
Forget about the Hantarex or Intervideo. The repro is designed for the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000.
20" MTC-9000 is the one you want to get in Europe. Same mounting points as the K7000.

Excellent chassis. Once you replace the flyback it's super reliable. Replacement tubes are very common too.
Forget about the 20" MTC-9000 too. The repro is designed for the WG 19" K7000 and only the WG 19" K7000.
Anyone see a repeating theme here?
The only dimension that matters to me is neck tube to center tube length. A chassis mount can be easily manipulated.
 
Actually, no. You are not stubborn. You are correct to see if other monitors shall work in the MiniCute repro. But rather, the point is still being missed. But you are onto what I am getting at. Here, let me help illustrate the point for you:

IMG_1464.JPG

IMG_1465.JPG


I took these photos myself. I don't think anyone has really judged how much room, or lack thereof, for monitor options there are. It is actually more glaring in person. Yet, here are the uncompromising requirements being demanded from hursit:
  1. Repro must be built to within a nanometer tolerance of original MiniCute external dimensions because of of this singular condition
  2. The repro must work with the original WG 19" K7000
    • Actually, I believe in this 2nd condition and strongly side with it
Now hursit shall make the repro so that the width and height of the K7000 fits into the repro. He is redesigning the K7000 frame. He has to as the original frame won't fit in the repro. With a redesigned frame, there is enough tolerance within the original MiniCute dimensions to fit the height and width of the K7000. Given the height and width of an A48 tube is pretty much the same the world over, unlikely there is an issue with height and width once you have sourced a compatible 19" monitor or TV tube.

But the length of the tube will have next to zero tolerance (1cm as denoted here). And it is the length of the tube that is not standardized. So unless you already have a burn-free WG 19" K7000, you are going to be in one of these scenarios:
  1. Using a burnt up OG WG 19" K7000 and hating life, or
  2. Have an empty MiniCute repro sitting around waiting for a deal on a WG 19" K7000 to show up in your city/state/country/island, or
  3. Rolling the dice on a tube swap hoping, lengthwise, it will fit inside the MiniCute repro, or
  4. Rolling the dice on one of the tubes mentioned by you and nem hoping, lengthwise, it will fit inside the MiniCute, or,
    • Maybe being the guinea pig for everyone else to follow
  5. Running the MiniCute with the back panel removed and the neck sticking out the back of the cab, or
  6. Using the LCD mount, or
  7. Opting out of the pre-order because you find you shall be in one of the situations above and find it insurmountable, or
  8. You might get lucky
Right now, it is WG 19" K7000 or bust.
 
The only dimension that matters to me is neck tube to center tube length. A chassis mount can be easily manipulated.
Right. You are thinking correctly. Still though, it is WG 19" K7000 or bust right now. Read my previous post.
 
Yes those are valid points, but since Intervideo monitors with Philips tubes do fit im a standard cute (I don’t mean the repro). I don’t see why this repro cute should not work with other monitors.

At least the 17” Intervideo monitor that works with the original cute should work with this one as well (absolutely no doubt on that)

the question is which European 20” monitor is going to fit... everything that is the same size or smaller than the k7000 (specially regarding the depth) is going to fit.

the original k7000 is not going to be an easy find in Europe.. for starters it doesn’t even support 230V (as far as I know). And I don’t see much people sourcing them from the USA since we used to have plenty of brands in Europe producing 20” monitors back in the time.
 
Repro must be built to within a nanometer tolerance of original MiniCute external dimensions because of of this singular condition
Singular is not really correct. Let's not forget that the first attempt at creating these failed in large part due to the design being too far from 1:1 with the original. There simply weren't enough people that wanted to purchase it without it being 1:1 in order to make it a reality.
The only dimension that matters to me is neck tube to center tube length. A chassis mount can be easily manipulated.
Right. You are thinking correctly. Still though, it is WG 19" K7000 or bust right now. Read my previous post.
Neck card dimensions also matter since it sits at an angle. There's only 1cm clearance at present, and if the neck card is larger in the wrong direction, it will touch the rear panel even with an identical depth tube.
 
Neck card dimensions also matter since it sits at an angle. There's only 1cm clearance at present, and if the neck card is larger in the wrong direction, it will touch the rear panel even with an identical depth tube.
This. All other issues aside, this was my biggest concern with the D9500 and the defining factor for me to put on the brakes in ordering those monitors from Gaming One, and the one big red flag with him trying to push through the order anyway. No business or enthusiast in their right mind would try to push things through with this as a glaring problem unless there was some shady reason to do so. Whatever is done, we just need to be very careful what goes into the cutes, there’s only so much flexibility that can be had. I don’t know how feasible it would be, but is there any way to make a variable depth frame without losing integrity or too much trouble? I know it’d affect the bezel, but maybe worth thinking about?
 
But the length of the tube will have next to zero tolerance (1cm as denoted here). And it is the length of the tube that is not standardized. So unless you already have a burn-free WG 19" K7000, you are going to be in one of these scenarios:

  1. Using a burnt up OG WG 19" K7000 and hating life, or
  2. Have an empty MiniCute repro sitting around waiting for a deal on a WG 19" K7000 to show up in your city/state/country/island, or
  3. Rolling the dice on a tube swap hoping, lengthwise, it will fit inside the MiniCute repro, or
  4. Rolling the dice on one of the tubes mentioned by you and nem hoping, lengthwise, it will fit inside the MiniCute, or,
    • Maybe being the guinea pig for everyone else to follow
  5. Running the MiniCute with the back panel removed and the neck sticking out the back of the cab, or
  6. Using the LCD mount, or
  7. Opting out of the pre-order because you find you shall be in one of the situations above and find it insurmountable, or
  8. You might get lucky
Right now, it is WG 19" K7000 or bust.
Yet, here are the uncompromising requirements being demanded from hursit
Your choice of words and overall demeanor come off like you are trying to scare people away from this project. What gives? I thought you pulled out?
 
Yes those are valid points, but since Intervideo monitors with Philips tubes do fit im a standard cute (I don’t mean the repro). I don’t see why this repro cute should not work with other monitors.

At least the 17” Intervideo monitor that works with the original cute should work with this one as well (absolutely no doubt on that)
You'd have to adapt the frame to work with a smaller tube on your own. Then create yourself your own bezel. The repro will work only with the original WG 19" K7000. So yeah, you'd be in the #8 scenario I listed above with the Intervideo monitor: "You might get lucky."
the question is which European 20” monitor is going to fit... everything that is the same size or smaller than the k7000 (specially regarding the depth) is going to fit.
the original k7000 is not going to be an easy find in Europe.. for starters it doesn’t even support 230V (as far as I know). And I don’t see much people sourcing them from the USA since we used to have plenty of brands in Europe producing 20” monitors back in the time.
To help you out. Check out the attachments. Same info was passed to hursit. This is what you are up against if you don't already have a WG 19" K7000.

I've always been an advocate designing the cab for the WG 19" K7000. If I was still getting the repro, it wouldn't bother me at all. I have two spare WG 19" K7000's I could use. I backed out because after sitting in front of it for hours taking measurements for this effort, I realized the MiniCute isn't for me. Still though, everyone else is going to be in really bad shape if you want a CRT display but don't have the WG 19" K7000. You'll only have 1cm to work with on the backside and zero room on the mount to screen side. Check the measurements.

Figuratively and literally, an inch can't even be given; maybe even less. All to satisfy this condition. So you can begin to see the conundrum you and everyone are in. Opportunity shall not be the same for everyone to obtain a 19" WG K7000. So manufacturing tolerance, lengthening the cab beyond OG spec by an inch or so, should be built it; it's not. Until then, everyone can toss out the notion that you can tube swap or use another monitor. That is the point I am making. WG 19" K7000 or bust.
 

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Your choice of words and overall demeanor come off like you are trying to scare people away from this project. What gives? I thought you pulled out?
I pulled out of getting the MiniCute repro because after sitting in front of it for hours taking measurements for this effort, I realized it wasn't for me. I did not pull out of this community. I am still contributing information about this effort to hursit and everyone else. That is what I am doing. I am not scaring anyone away. Quite the contrary. It is in fact the uncompromising requirements that will scare everyone else away.

Just letting folks know what they are up against if they want a CRT display, but don't have the WG 19" K7000.
 
Just letting folks know what they are up against if they want a CRT display, but don't have the WG 19" K7000.
For US members: they can go buy one. As even you have previously brought up; they are plentiful in the US.

EU members will have to be sorted at some point, yes, but at this point there isn't even an EU distributor and only a handful of EU purchases. They'll be taken care of, I'm certain. But 80/84 or so cabinets are going to the US and it's honestly not an issue here.

As @rewrong said, every post you've made today comes off raw. I don't know if you woke up on the wrong side of the bed or what, but please stop derailing the thread *yet again* by going on and on about monitors.
So manufacturing tolerance, lengthening the cab beyond OG spec by an inch or so, should be built it; it's not.
Please stop beating a dead horse with this and the "satisfy this condition" while linking back to my post repeatedly.

At this point you're simply poisoning a sales thread, and that's against the rules. Please move on.
 
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Figuratively and literally, an inch can't even be given; maybe even less. All to satisfy this condition.
For a second time:

Repro must be built to within a nanometer tolerance of original MiniCute external dimensions because of of this singular condition
Singular is not really correct. Let's not forget that the first attempt at creating these failed in large part due to the design being too far from 1:1 with the original. There simply weren't enough people that wanted to purchase it without it being 1:1 in order to make it a reality.
 
I pulled out of getting the MiniCute repro because after sitting in front of it for hours taking measurements for this effort, I realized it wasn't for me.
But at that point, rewrite already hunted a tube down and gave hursit the measurements. Why did you decide to insert yourself and clog the project with more information? You're super knowledgeable, and a valuable member of this community, but show some tact.

We chose the k7000 based on your recommendation, and for over 8 months we heard nothing about any problems with this monitor. As soon as we started nearing production, you came in and started throwing measurements around and suggesting a different tube and chassis altogether. This derailed the project into an alternate monitor discussion. Please don't do this again.

Hursit and Cereth have been very upfront with what this cab is meant to use, and what the intention is for future tube swaps. Its not guaranteed that every tube you find in the wild will work, but this should be obvious.

So why keep stating this? Why insist that they are doing this because of rewrites previous comment? Especially after this thread was already shut down? Please dont...we don't need another Lockdown 2.0
 
This effort started out as a repro. A prototype was made at 80% accuracy and offered for pre-order for which 37/40 people needed to fill a container expressed interest in the cab at that early stage. Along the way, some special interets came into play requiring 100% accuracy. Now it is WG 19" K7000 or bust. The special interests won. I can see why you are quick to be dismissive. It serves your purpose. Because as you said, "........a project that is just as much mine as Hursit's." People will be left out in the cold, even in the US. Not that you care of course. Now I do see your perspective. But it is myopic and selfish IMO.

In any case, it is WG 19" K7000 or bust. You win. My choice of words are intentional. To call out why the outcomes shall be what they shall be. At the end of the day, please don't blame hursit or Cereth, the two guys that invested the most and the most to lose.
 
Well it’s a monitor frame. There are a few points of adjustment and k7000 is not the the shortest frame on the market.

It seems a little gloomy what your saying and if you were to show us measurements of other tubes being out of tolerance I would be listening.

But your insinstance on a low tolerance ruling out all other tubes doesn’t hold up for me.

It’s more of a fear of being out of tolerance and not evidence of it.

Show me the proof that certain models don’t work. Until then, you may have a bias.

Ps you da man @acblunden2

I can tell you care
 
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