RGB MOD Pelco monitors help please..

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    • ebzero89 wrote:

      You know if you can get the full schematic you can probably do this non destructively. A lot of the YouTube videos use the snipping and pull up method that removes the osd and so on. You don't have to directly inject into those pins is the point. Just to the non ground side of a resistor in line with the pin. MarkOZLAD on the shmups forums has a general overview schematic in his signature in the rgb mod thread there.
      @ebzero89 - I upload two more pics of the back of the chassis..back1 and back2.. If I understand you correctly, I should not need to lift the pins on the jungle chip and solder where I just indicated on the picture label back1?
      The Future Is Now
    • The thing I'm talking about is an OSD Hijack mod, you should just need to pull up the ground leg of a resistor in line with the target pin and connect a wire from that to the appropriate pin on the SCART connector. Again, please check the schematic on the shumps forum, Mark posted directly above your post, look in his signature. Additionally, you only ever need to tie the blanking line high (to 5v) if you're using BNC or something that can't inject 5v or you're doing a switch method for blanking. In your schematic, I can only see the caps and not the resistors, I'm not sure if you can use the caps but honestly, just get the chassis out and start tracing the lines from the pins until you can find something that terminated to ground that you can replace or pull up to inject to. The 8-bit guy has a video that is SIMILAR to what your chassis looks like and the process he uses should be again SIMILAR to what you're trying to do.
    • ebzero89 wrote:

      The thing I'm talking about is an OSD Hijack mod, you should just need to pull up the ground leg of a resistor in line with the target pin and connect a wire from that to the appropriate pin on the SCART connector. Again, please check the schematic on the shumps forum, Mark posted directly above your post, look in his signature. Additionally, you only ever need to tie the blanking line high (to 5v) if you're using BNC or something that can't inject 5v or you're doing a switch method for blanking. In your schematic, I can only see the caps and not the resistors, I'm not sure if you can use the caps but honestly, just get the chassis out and start tracing the lines from the pins until you can find something that terminated to ground that you can replace or pull up to inject to. The 8-bit guy has a video that is SIMILAR to what your chassis looks like and the process he uses should be again SIMILAR to what you're trying to do.
      thanks..looking at the OSD MUX RGB Circuit v2 now.. need to take a look again at the 8bit video.
      The Future Is Now
    • Yeah his video is good for the general concept but please do be careful and don't straight up copy him, he's doing things with BNC connectors and not SCART, you'll have to do some slightly different wiring and tie things to ground slightly differently. Also, be very sure that the resistors go to the pins you need. Test it with a meter! Should only take a second. As for wiring up the SCART head whenever you get to that point, I don't have much advice, I was lazy, and made a PCB that copied the schematic and put resistors and grounds and so on on that and just soldered my wires to pads on the PCB.
    • ebzero89 wrote:

      Yeah his video is good for the general concept but please do be careful and don't straight up copy him, he's doing things with BNC connectors and not SCART, you'll have to do some slightly different wiring and tie things to ground slightly differently. Also, be very sure that the resistors go to the pins you need. Test it with a meter! Should only take a second. As for wiring up the SCART head whenever you get to that point, I don't have much advice, I was lazy, and made a PCB that copied the schematic and put resistors and grounds and so on on that and just soldered my wires to pads on the PCB.
      I was thinking about BNC over SCART.. the pelco on the back has BNC for composite instead of a regular composite RCA jack... If I add 3 more RGB BNC connector and the blanking switch like the 8bitguy, the Pelco would be like a PVM with BNC:). I see on the Pelco's board an empty ground and I think that, I see v1 which should be 5v..I have a multimeter to check it out...thanks for all the help man..

      The test TV, will be regular scart..


      edit - one more question -- how do I test for ground..looking at the above picture i am sure the I have to desolder the 3 left legs and solder the new resister there but like you said test.. on the multimeter, what do I set that up to on the dial..200hm..black to a ground and red to one of the left leg? if I hear a beeping sound that is ground?? I have only used a multimeter a few times testing the H and V of a yoke..
      The Future Is Now
    • SNK-NEO-GEO wrote:

      how do I test for ground..looking at the above picture i am sure the I have to desolder the 3 left legs and solder the new resister there but like you said test.. on the multimeter, what do I set that up to on the dial..200hm..black to a ground and red to one of the left leg? if I hear a beeping sound that is ground?? I have only used a multimeter a few times testing the H and V of a yoke..
      Just set it to continuity mode and listen for a beep between a ground (common if possible) and one of the legs. You'll only be able to do that after to lift one of the legs though. If you lift a leg and have a connection to ground, you'll need to resolder it and lift the other side. Vice versa also works. If you check vs the pin on the jungle chip and hear a beep with one side lifted you're good to go (basically).
    • Not sure how to go about it..
      If I trace R204-206
      R204 it is going to the jungle chip R OUT pin 21
      R205 It is going to the jungle chip G OUT pin 20
      R206 it is going to the jungle chip B OUT pin 19


      If I trace R204-206 the other way around
      R204 it is going to the the neck board R
      R205 It is going to the the neck board G
      R206 it is going to the the neck board B

      I was watching the 8bitguy video again and he wired blanking to the micro controller blanking pin in stead of the jungle blanking in.. I found the blanking diagram for his TV micro controller and shows pin 25 for blanking.. I was looking for my diagram on the pelco, no go.

      on the 8Bitguy, I am not sure if R204-206 are going the the jungle chip RGB IN or OUT.. I tried looking for his jungle chip diagram but could not find. I am assuming that it is going to the RGB IN because he is tapping into the signal before it gets to the jungle chip RGB IN so he can feed the consoles RGB input.???

      Maybe the best approach is to just lift the leg of the jungle chip RGB IN and wire things the old fashion way.. add the 75ohm and .1u cup on the scart end, take the composite or svideo for sync, wire blanking directly to the jungle blanking in.. Not sure..
      The Future Is Now
    • You really need to just track down the correct resistors. If the ones you pointed out are going to RGB out, then find the RGB in pins and trace them down. You can use any 5v source for blanking. The resistors you're looking for are terminated to ground, not just in line (though you'll need to put duplicates of those on your wires anyway). Yes, he's tapping into the signal BEFORE the pin itself, this is now the recommended, non-destructive method.
    • ebzero89 wrote:

      Haha you're not wrong, the main benefit is being able to continue using the TV the same way it was before, in addition to actually being able to see what the OSD does when you make changes while sending RGB.
      The pelco's monitor OSD, it's just show, no signal or video or cam display nothing more... all the adjustment are done from a control board PCB (like an arcade monitor) which is mounted at the front for brightness, color, volume etc, there is no RF remote control like a TV..so I don't care for the OSD because I still have the PCB to control things..

      When tracing the RGB IN on the jungle chip - they are connected to 3 green caps (2A223J)..

      MY first test will be to lift the legs of ping 22-26 of the jungle chip and cross fingers that RGB is not disable..

      If that fails then do the the8bit TV thing.. I think that the OSD chip is jumping/Mixed with the RGB OUT on the Jungle chip and I will just have to figure out which pin on the OSD chip is the blanking (hopefully it is ping 25 like the 8bitguy's TV).. If I had the schematics for the OSD chip then that would be my 1st test instead of my second.

      No matter how you put it.. the lifting leg RGBS IN, is the more straight forward MOD because you only need to look at the Jungle chip online and find the schematics.

      I still don't know how the Scart part end gets wire because I have not looked that far and I am still waiting on getting the female scart from China so not anytime soon.
      The Future Is Now