Announcement Important Capcom CPS2 Announcement

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    • Because normally a soldered battery has just two potential fail points not including the battery dying. The holder doubles that. And the push-in battery contact surfaces are subject to becoming dirty or oxidized. Everyone has had a TV remote that stopped working. What do you do most times? You open the battery door and spin the batteries and the remote magically starts working again. Same potential issue. I have seen it a few times as well as the battery completely popping out of the socket even though the cover is snapped on. I used to install these for people as a service years ago until I saw the problems first hand and stopped doing it. I still have a lot of unused battery holders here.
    • Mitsurugi-w wrote:

      Because normally a soldered battery has just two potential fail points not including the battery dying. The holder doubles that. And the push-in battery contact surfaces are subject to becoming dirty or oxidized. Everyone has had a TV remote that stopped working. What do you do most times? You open the battery door and spin the batteries and the remote magically starts working again. Same potential issue. I have seen it a few times as well as the battery completely popping out of the socket even though the cover is snapped on. I used to install these for people as a service years ago until I saw the problems first hand and stopped doing it. I still have a lot of unused battery holders here.
      Interesting, I have never had any issues with this technique, but as you said a moot point now that we can resurrect the CPS2 again! :D
      The future of ST-V rests upon our work and your work
    • The amount of time I've used these two words in relation to those Keystone battery holders: "contact resistance". Mitsurugi-w's assertion is correct.

      However, it is less of an issue now I suppose. Could store boards with empty holders, then push a battery in and write the correct keys to play. Remove the battery before putting back into storage.

      I don't like the idea of drilling the PCB either though. It takes 30 seconds to solder in a battery with axial pins.
    • idc wrote:

      The amount of time I've used these two words in relation to those Keystone battery holders: "contact resistance". Mitsurugi-w's assertion is correct.

      However, it is less of an issue now I suppose. Could store boards with empty holders, then push a battery in and write the correct keys to play. Remove the battery before putting back into storage.

      I don't like the idea of drilling the PCB either though. It takes 30 seconds to solder in a battery with axial pins.
      As you said, there are sooooo many options now. Everyone can pick their own :)
      * Arcade-projects, the site where you get the most of your arcade games.
      * If you want Drama go to Neo-Geo forum ---Darksoft
    • idc wrote:

      There will always be a place for decrypted ROMs (Phoenix, Avalaunch or whoever else's) as they may be preferred by some. Lithium cells do pose the risk of destroying a board if they leak. It's a case of personal preference really. Go decrypted and never worry about leaking batteries, or have the keys on the board, knowing that you have original unmodified ROMs but have to replace the battery every five years or so.
      I said something similar when I first heard the news. Big part I use decrypted sets it is so much easier to hack. A lot of the movement data in special moves/command normals are encrypted in capcom's fighting games.
    • I'm okay if it can be shown that the decrypted ROMs can written back to encrypted and checked with a board with original keys intact. Or if what I say does not make sense, make up some way that shows that backwards or forwards that the program ROMs are one and the same.

      I would like to see that with our without the decryption parts on play that the game still acts exactly the same. Or maybe the board can do a soft reset after inserting the key one the chip that holds the key for decrypting the program ROMs. Or a way to just load the key through the JTAG (also needs to soft reset I guess).

      There has got to be some way of doing this. I still dream of the everything multi board that has 100% original program ROMs, with the YM2151 and OKI6295 so that we can play with CPS 1 games as well. The work that was put in by the guy decapsulated or what ever it's called that allowed for the electron microscope, the scope pictures, and the man breaking down pictures detailing it's inner workings (thanks edcross), IDC for testing, and anyone else that was involved with this project should allow us to make that very scenario happen I believe (I can dream can't I?)

      The post was edited 1 time, last by TechnicalMonkey ().

    • TechnicalMonkey wrote:

      I'm okay if it can be shown that the decrypted ROMs can written back to encrypted and checked with a board with original keys intact. Or if what I say does not make sense, make up some way that shows that backwards or forwards that the program ROMs are one and the same.

      I would like to see that with our without the decryption parts on play that the game still acts exactly the same. Or maybe the board can do a soft reset after inserting the key one the chip that holds the key for decrypting the program ROMs. Or a way to just load the key through the JTAG (also needs to soft reset I guess).

      There has got to be some way of doing this. I still dream of the everything multi board that has 100% original program ROMs, with the YM2151 and OKI6295 so that we can play with CPS 1 games as well. The work that was put in by the guy decapsulated or what ever it's called that allowed for the electron microscope, the scope pictures, and the man breaking down pictures detailing it's inner workings (thanks edcross), IDC for testing, and anyone else that was involved with this project should allow us to make that very scenario happen I believe (I can dream can't I?)
      For hacking you can run hacked encrypted romhack if the key is alive and the same. Pau Oliva used radare2 to figure out how my edited code would be if encrypted. It worked in emu and here is the hardware test someone else did.



      As for cps1 on cps2 that requires a lot of work besides the sound hardware. First problem was interweaving the graphic roms to load on cps2. Second was inputs are a different location but on my hyper fighting I had to rework p2 controls to behave correctly since the kick harness is weird on cps2. And the final big problem that still needs to be fixed is sprites. Cps2 sprites require no pal, priority behaves differently, and need to program the sprite offset 0xFFFFF0 - 0xFFFFFC on dead cps2 boards.
    • idc wrote:

      The current multi will not handle it. There is a chance that no multi will ever handle it in a simple fashion, since the B-board cannot, as far as we know, be attached to an A-board when the key is written.
      Sorry mate but I got it to work with both kinds of CPS2 B boards (with or without CN9) while they're attached to the A board. All I had to do was use diodes to insulate the reset pin coming from the multi from the reset pin coming from the arduino. That way both devices can issue reset signal to the CPS2 without one disturbing the other. Therefore making the multi write keys to the CPS2 B board not only is feasible but very possible to do. All it takes is pour work on the firmware and figure out how to hook up (need three extra GPIO bits).
    • l_oliveira wrote:

      idc wrote:

      The current multi will not handle it. There is a chance that no multi will ever handle it in a simple fashion, since the B-board cannot, as far as we know, be attached to an A-board when the key is written.
      Sorry mate but I got it to work with both kinds of CPS2 B boards (with or without CN9) while they're attached to the A board. All I had to do was use diodes to insulate the reset pin coming from the multi from the reset pin coming from the arduino. That way both devices can issue reset signal to the CPS2 without one disturbing the other. Therefore making the multi write keys to the CPS2 B board not only is feasible but very possible to do. All it takes is pour work on the firmware and figure out how to hook up (need three extra GPIO bits).
      Brilliant news, well done Leo. :)


      Mitsurugi-w wrote:

      Thanks for letting me be a tester guys. I know I was a bit of a headache with the -3 and -4 pcbs and probably the reason for the delay of the release. Hope I was a help to you though.

      Thanks again and congrats!
      Thank you. Glad to involve you! Your difficulties with revision 3 and 4 boards was an important indication that something wasn't quite right. Hopefully the recent changes have resolved such problems.