Kavas' Sega Aero City Restoration

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    • Kavas' Sega Aero City Restoration

      I just received my Sega Aero City. I understand there is another thread discussing one of these cabinets from the same batch over here but mine may be different and I may go a different route. I will try not to ask the same questions and refer to anything posted there before coming here. This is mainly for my progress timeline.



      The entire album is here and will be updated: Sega Aero Album

      Here are my questions so far...


      1. My chassis is a what? I want to do a full recap and restore on this puppy. I am told is MAYBE a Nanao MS8-26a but they aren't sure. Is there a definitive way to find out? I would like to buy a premade cap kit like this one : arcadepartsandrepair.com/store…or-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/ Maybe purchase some VR and a spare flyback if available just in case
      2. My PSU, is there any way to find out the cap list for it online or do I gotta go in there and manually size and research each cap myself? I have done it before on a Peter Chou, just checking if there is an online guide somewhere first.
      3. I am told some parts on the chasses/neckboard might be due for a refresh, like resistors and what not. Anything in particular to look out for while I have it out?
      4. I am already contacting the sandblasting / powder coating folks. Do I just bring them the breakdown panels and have them color match or is there some definitive color code I bring them? Or do I say "white".
      5. There are holes that shouldn't be there. I was told bondo will do the job. Do I take it to be sandblasted, then bondo it myself, then take it back for the final powder coat? What is the order of operations here?
      6. The dings and dents in the metal... is there a way to straiten those out? I am no metal worker. Is there someone or something I look for to see if this can be fixed or do I just live with it as charming features?
      7. Where can I pick up new locks? Some of mine are missing entirely.
      8. Until @alberto1225 finishes his repro of the 2l6b original style panels, my only option I see for original style CP to replace this Mahjong panel is the one Yaton sells. Any final words of advice until I buy that stopgap horror show?
      9. I will be getting the art from Gatenintey as hoagtech recommended. Anything I need to know about application?
      10. The wiring down there has me confused. I see the Jamma harness, but there is a breakout on it to a Jamma pinout. Is this just an extender or is it some switcher?
      11. I might go the route of LED lightstrip instead of the default bulb. Any tips?
      12. The small bolts and screws might be stripped in the teardown, is there a known vendor of exact matches? Or is the local home depot fine?
      13. Speaking of bolts and small parts, I hear you can make those look new with a tumbler? And whats this galvanize thing? so much to research.


      Thanks for any help, wanna get started on this ASAP!
    • 1. get the numbers off of the chassis board and neckboard and google for them. It's almost certainly an MS8-26 variant.
      4. it isn't originally powder coated so i doubt there's an official color code. I would just have them match the white as close as possible.
      5. depends on how you want it to look... basically yes, you need to media blast off the paint and then do bondo and then sand it smooth, then final paint/powder.
      6. bondo... or have the powder shop guys address it for you.
      7. 5380, ebay. yaton often has them in sets. or try yaj.
      9. research about sticker/vinyl application. get a squeegee. use soap or a setting spray to make your life easier
      10. jamma harness comes from the aero specific connector, pinout is available online... i think it's in the manual as well?
      11. i don't prefer led. but do whatever works and you are satisfied with.
      12. i would just buy new hardware if yours is shitty... but i will say sega did not cheap out on fasteners. their hardware is generally very good.
      Woodies: Xevious, Pac-Man, Dig Dug, Donkey Kong, Joust Cocktail, Space Invaders, 3-KOAM Red Angle
      Candies: 3x Aero City, New Astro City, 2x Blast City, Net City
      VAPS
    • Kavas wrote:

      I just received my Sega Aero City. I understand there is another thread discussing one of these cabinets from the same batch over here but mine may be different and I may go a different route. I will try not to ask the same questions and refer to anything posted there before coming here. This is mainly for my progress timeline.



      The entire album is here and will be updated: Sega Aero Album

      Here are my questions so far...


      1. My chassis is a what? I want to do a full recap and restore on this puppy. I am told is MAYBE a Nanao MS8-26a but they aren't sure. Is there a definitive way to find out? I would like to buy a premade cap kit like this one : arcadepartsandrepair.com/store…or-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/ Maybe purchase some VR and a spare flyback if available just in case
      2. My PSU, is there any way to find out the cap list for it online or do I gotta go in there and manually size and research each cap myself? I have done it before on a Peter Chou, just checking if there is an online guide somewhere first.
      3. I am told some parts on the chasses/neckboard might be due for a refresh, like resistors and what not. Anything in particular to look out for while I have it out?
      4. I am already contacting the sandblasting / powder coating folks. Do I just bring them the breakdown panels and have them color match or is there some definitive color code I bring them? Or do I say "white".
      5. There are holes that shouldn't be there. I was told bondo will do the job. Do I take it to be sandblasted, then bondo it myself, then take it back for the final powder coat? What is the order of operations here?
      6. The dings and dents in the metal... is there a way to straiten those out? I am no metal worker. Is there someone or something I look for to see if this can be fixed or do I just live with it as charming features?
      7. Where can I pick up new locks? Some of mine are missing entirely.
      8. Until @alberto1225 finishes his repro of the 2l6b original style panels, my only option I see for original style CP to replace this Mahjong panel is the one Yaton sells. Any final words of advice until I buy that stopgap horror show?
      9. I will be getting the art from Gatenintey as hoagtech recommended. Anything I need to know about application?
      10. The wiring down there has me confused. I see the Jamma harness, but there is a breakout on it to a Jamma pinout. Is this just an extender or is it some switcher?
      11. I might go the route of LED lightstrip instead of the default bulb. Any tips?
      12. The small bolts and screws might be stripped in the teardown, is there a known vendor of exact matches? Or is the local home depot fine?
      13. Speaking of bolts and small parts, I hear you can make those look new with a tumbler? And whats this galvanize thing? so much to research.


      Thanks for any help, wanna get started on this ASAP!
      1. Its most likely a MS826SG as all 3 of my forward facing controls were. The only other one I got was the ms8-26SE which had the side facing controls.

      2. I don't know. I'm sending mine to rewrite for Cap kits. I would ask him or read each cap.

      3. You will know more about needed resistors when you hook up a test PCB. its looks like like they included a Jamma adapter so your off to a good start.

      4. You may want to get quotes from sandblasters instead of having the powder coating use their sandblasters. Most powder coating companies I know hate sandblasting so it may be higher quality if you have a separate sandblaster and powder coater.

      5. Depending on the hole size, your better off welding the same width sheet metal and grinding down the welds. I wouldn't want a certain area to wear out faster than the others. Luckily I have a welder friend.

      6. Your collision and auto body/ Dent repair excel at metal body work. I have a "guy" who works on my Chevy pickups who's going to help me

      7. ebay.com/itm/Full-Set-Key-X2-S…7c45ab:g:660AAOSwcABb5fHf

      8. buy the sticks and buttons for the alberto panel and hole saw through your mahjong panel for testing. The clips should latch just fine on the buttons. I like my Yaton panels though. Im not sure if 6 buttons right next to each other is very ergonomic. Maybe you can ask Alberto for a new graphic overlay and replace the buttons and joys on the Yaton.

      9. I am dreading applying this. I saw one post that set their rolled graphics out flat for a few days and claimed that help with ripples and bubbles. I'm definitely going to do that

      10. That is your Sega base to Jamma harness. Is it attached to the base? Do you have a base. The jamma should have 56 pins (28 top, 28 bottom) and attach to a 36 pin Sega base (18 on top, 18 on bottom). I have had issues with the Sega bases so far, being extremely touchy and even frying a tetris bootleg.

      11. get a replacement bulb. They are cheap and will let you know whether your marquee is fully functioning as well if it does not on already. You can choose your kelvin if you want a more modern lighting style. I would go 10,000K (White)

      12. A locally hardware store usually have more screw and bolt options than the big boxes or maybe its just my town.
    • KaPH33n wrote:

      also looks like you're missing your coin box (and door?)... so keep an eye peeled.
      If you check the album I linked in OP, it has more pictures. I show that the coin box and door is off to the side. Very thankful that everything seems to be there. But the locks are missing so I'll be on the lookout for the 5380 locks everyone is mentioning. The one's hoagtech linked would work but man that would be $120 for 5 locks, about 1/4 the price of the cabinet! Surely they aren't the normal price.

      The lock bars did so much damage to the metal. Gonna ask the sandblast / powder coat guys what they think the best coarse of action would be for that. The dents and dings have me stumped. Do I go to my local car repair shop and ask them if they work on non-car related items? Go to a welding shop? Surely it's more detailed than just taking a rubber mallet to it and hoping for the best.


      KaPH33n wrote:

      1. get the numbers off of the chassis board and neckboard and google for them. It's almost certainly an MS8-26 variant.
      4. it isn't originally powder coated so i doubt there's an official color code. I would just have them match the white as close as possible.
      5. depends on how you want it to look... basically yes, you need to media blast off the paint and then do bondo and then sand it smooth, then final paint/powder.
      6. bondo... or have the powder shop guys address it for you.
      7. 5380, ebay. yaton often has them in sets. or try yaj.
      9. research about sticker/vinyl application. get a squeegee. use soap or a setting spray to make your life easier
      10. jamma harness comes from the aero specific connector, pinout is available online... i think it's in the manual as well?
      11. i don't prefer led. but do whatever works and you are satisfied with.
      12. i would just buy new hardware if yours is shitty... but i will say sega did not cheap out on fasteners. their hardware is generally very good.
      I did get the numbers off the board and google'ed them. I went to arcadepartsandrepair.com and his exact email was




      arcadepartsandrepair wrote:

      5A00185C1, Brown (26")


      "Nanao MS8-26A 15-25K" jomac.net.au

      "Nanao MS-8 26AN3" neo-arcadia.com

      "ms8-26sg" gamoover.net

      Your chassis number of 5A00185C1 is showing several options for that chassis but I have not been able to verify which one truly is yours and we do make all of them.I would guess this is the one but I am not 100% positive.

      arcadepartsandrepair.com/store…or-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/
      But according to hoag mine is different. Thanks to him tho I now know where to look to see the MS8 variant I have. It is indeed a MS8-26SG. Hopefully that's all I need to provide to the fella above.

      You don't prefer LED? Ok, i'll stick to the bulb! :thumbup: Just don't want the heat to damage the colors on the marquee.

      I am not hooking anything up until I understand exactly what is what. I'll take more pictures of the harness later, maybe someone could tell me if anything is unsafe. Don't have any test boards to play around with.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Kavas ().

    • Either way you will need at the least a control harness.

      There are x2 9 pin molex (white 1P) (red 2P) and a separate 4 pin molex for 1p2p start.

      I believe Yaton is out of stock so I would order from Japan-Arcade which are actually from France.

      They ask me for custom options and buttons before shipping.

      ebay.com/itm/Cable-Panel-2-Pla…ksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648

      Whether you build a test plate, buy a 12 button, or stick with the 2p6b, you will need this anyways.

      The 4b is wired to jamma pins 25, and E. Any buttons beyond this are wired to a kick harness or PCB.
    • Here is the process to hooking up a Jamma board to your Aero.



      The Adapter plugs into the base And your game plugs into Jamma.

      Let me know if your base is messed up because I have had terrible luck with mine.

      You should be able to bring up a picture with a PCB plugged in. Some boards only play sound after you click the coin spring down for a credit.

      Does your PSU have its harness plug or has it been converted to screw terminals?

      Please peal up the black tape on the adapter and make sure the sega logo is the same side as your numbered (instead of lettered) side of your jamma.
    • What you are calling a "base" is a Sega proprietary connector. It was designed with the future in mind so you could unplug the jamma harness and plug in other wiring harnesses. This is similar to how a Sega T-13 comes with a wiring harness for System 16 but can also be jamma by switching the cable.

      The "base" in an Aero City is supposed be mounted on a metal plate in the cabinet bottom. This keeps the connection between it and the jamma harness elevated. If you don't keep that elevated and just lay that connection in the cabinet, you can bridge connections by doing that. Are the mounts missing from all of these cabinets?
    • New



      Extraction complete. *Flex*


      If no one has any objections, I will be grabbing this kit.
      arcadepartsandrepair.com/store…6sg-monitor-cap-kit-105c/

      Also will buy the filter cap. Anything else I should look into?

      Only thing that has me worried is one of the reviews the person states some of the caps on the chassis are "out of spec". Not sure what that means, but it means I am less likely to want to put together my own cap kit.








    • New

      Kavas wrote:



      If no one has any objections, I will be grabbing this kit.
      arcadepartsandrepair.com/store…6sg-monitor-cap-kit-105c/

      Also will buy the filter cap. Anything else I should look into?

      Only thing that has me worried is one of the reviews the person states some of the caps on the chassis are "out of spec". Not sure what that means, but it means I am less likely to want to put together my own cap kit.
      He uses good quality caps, but you really have to look at the cap values of the originals and compare with the ones arcadepartsandrepair provides. When I did a partial recap of of my toshiba chassis, there were a couple caps that were incorrect values. I emailed them about it and they seem to be very apologetic about it, but from what I am told they never correct the problem and continue to sell the incorrect cap kits.
    • New

      hoagtech wrote:

      I like how they left the 100 yen in your coin bin. You saved about $20

      The corrosion on them comes off with an ISO soak and liberal scrubbing.


      That's not $20, more like $70 worth of yen in that picture... nice score!
      Multis: CPS-2, CPS-3, F3, ST-V, MVS, M72, Naomi, G-Net
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