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Not even a coin hole for the coin chute?

How many would you need?

The doors seems like it's for folks who ordered from KC but didn't get everything so it's numbers might be low.

But a custom panel for trackball or other such stuff might be cool.

I'll see what they say next week.
 
How many people are in need of coin box doors, main access panel doors, or the surrounding CP that houses the start buttons?

I just dropped off two pieces I forgot at the powder coaters and they said they were just thinking of me and a predicament I had mentioned in passing a couple weeks ago. They know a guy who's apparently a master metal worker, could reproduce a muffler 1:1. He's looking for work and seemed interested in our predicament.

I remain skeptical but my guys assured me they think he can do the job should it be worth his time. I had mentioned between 5-10 pieces made for such a niche product. Not sure what you all are willing to pay for reproduction pieces.

I'll be dropping off my doors for him to look at and get me an idea of if he can do it and a price range.
I would love one coin bucket door. I guess just procure an estimate and we'll start from there.
 
Not even a coin hole for the coin chute?

How many would you need?

The doors seems like it's for folks who ordered from KC but didn't get everything so it's numbers might be low.

But a custom panel for trackball or other such stuff might be cool.

I'll see what they say next week.
Now that I think about it...Yeah...the coin slot and screw holes would be good...but not necessary, if it's going to drive costs up much.

I'd need 5 I think....for my uses....just bare steel, with the bend, and the studs for mounting to the CP surround....as I'll paint them, and apply my own art once all the holes are drilled.

I'm thinking a
3" Trackball panel, with the trackball dead center, and 3 fire/action buttons on either side - Should handle my Centi/Milli/Missle pcb, JROK Mylstar's Reactor - and my Pi4Jamma on Crystal Castles/gunbarich, among others

Classics panel, with mounts to fit in a Qbert Rotterdamn stick at the 45deg angle, and a modern MsPac/galaga stick in the normal directions, , and a JLF/Semitsu using a universal mounting plate, along with buttons to run pretty much anything else vertically on the pi4jamma, Bit Kit, or other shmup/vert pcb's I'd like to run

JROK Multi Williams panel with twin sticks for Robotron, and enough buttons in an easy to reach configuration to handle Joust, Startgate, defender, Etc.

Possibly a Gun panel with Holsters if I decide to use it as a shooting cabinet at some point in time.

1 spare panel for mistakes, or other creative ideas.

Those are my ideas so far. I'd be interested to see what anyone else comes up with. The hope was, by using these, it would be cheaper to get, easier to work with, and id be able to shift start buttons, mounts, and game buttons, wherever I'd like to help complement my own art/etc.
 
that trackball sounds nice, could use that for segasonic
 
yep...could easily make a dual 3" trackball, for segasonic, marble madness, or make an adapter and test it with Brizzo's spinner pcb, to use a trackball for things like Puzzle Bobble, Arkanoid, etc.
 
How many people are in need of coin box doors, main access panel doors, or the surrounding CP that houses the start buttons?

I just dropped off two pieces I forgot at the powder coaters and they said they were just thinking of me and a predicament I had mentioned in passing a couple weeks ago. They know a guy who's apparently a master metal worker, could reproduce a muffler 1:1. He's looking for work and seemed interested in our predicament.

I remain skeptical but my guys assured me they think he can do the job should it be worth his time. I had mentioned between 5-10 pieces made for such a niche product. Not sure what you all are willing to pay for reproduction pieces.

I'll be dropping off my doors for him to look at and get me an idea of if he can do it and a price range.
I'd be in for 2 each of the main door, coin door, and lower control panel housing, for lack of better term.

My doors all have dents from pry bars and whatever.
 
Sadly I think my left speaker is blown. I have checked continuity like 10 times, and even used the Taito F3 stereo out (speaker level) to test and it just isn't getting anything. Wondering if there is a way to revive it, or a replacement.
 
yep...could easily make a dual 3" trackball, for segasonic, marble madness, or make an adapter and test it with Brizzo's spinner pcb, to use a trackball for things like Puzzle Bobble, Arkanoid, etc.
I'd buy 1 if you make extra dual trackball panel
 
Lots of interest in a track ball panel. Is there a definitive track ball everyone agrees is amazing and we can all get behind? One that for sure would fit in the tiny CP housing of an aero? Maybe come up with the placement on a mock-up with where buttons and trackball may go and have the studs included in the design.

Again no idea if this is doable yet. Gotta wait and see if the guy can make it.


Searched all over for aero speakers. Seems I'm not the only one where these speakers go out. I'm getting no ohm impedance from them with my multimeter even though they look in great shape. I'm assuming something must have happened with the coil. Can't find a fit this size.

Might go to goodwill and just scalp a cheap PC speaker or something that would fit for the time being. Any other ideas are welcome.
 
I'm in need of the control panel bezel and the inner panel itself as I have a custom jobby there now.

The only other piece I would like is the front chrome strip by the footrest as mine has holes in it, but that isn't a big deal.
 
I am in need of coin box door

and 2 outer cp panels
I wouldnt mind a trackball panel.

would love a gun panel as iv kickstarted the sinden guns which are getting close to being dun.

Edit: ordered grommits. but shipped them to rewrite he has a chassis of mine. They wanted 50+ dollars to ship to hawaii because only ups. 14ish to him so 20 bucks in all for 8 grommits.

something got crossed and I only ordered 4 fuck now i gotta see if they can change order before shipping.
 
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So they got back to me about the doors and repro panel.

The panel with the bend and stud is $125. I am not sure if this includes the cutouts or just plain metal like @bagheera369 wanted. Still for $125 it seems good. Thing is these are hand made and he is using my panel as a template. He would need 50% of the cost upfront to start producing. I think a prototype would be in order but I haven't talked to them directly. Let me know what you guys think.

The coin door panel would be $200. I "think" this includes the door powder coated as well.

The bigger main door has channels and is a lot more complicated and resource intensive so it would be $325 or so.

I must state this here and now, I am just the middle man and am not making money for this so if anyone wants to give this a shot just know that I am in no way responsible whatever the outcome may be. I will go there tomorrow in person and find out more details. I only just spoke to him on the phone. This is delaying the last powder coating I needed because he is using my parts as templates. Now that we have an idea what hes charging and he says he can do it, it is now out there for you to take the gamble on. I haven't even met the guy and I am only going through my coaters.
 
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Sorry Kavas, @ 125$ a blank, I'm gonna have to pass for right now. I still need to work on the glass situation, for everyone *I'm sorry for the delay here, we are still sheltering in place as much as possible, due to pre-existing condition concerns* and a few of my other projects.

If anyone else needs to get in on these, go ahead, but please don't delay anyone's work on my account.
 
Thanks for bringing these to the world.

Maybe you can try a sheet metal supplier in your area for a second opinion.

$200 is steep for a coin door.

Then again my foot rest manufacturer is trying to claim their bid didn't include shipping so I realize how these things can get expensive.

I'm going to take my coin door and cp cover to Lynden Sheet Metal and see if they can cut the front faces out and weld 4 "L" brackets to depth on the sides

It wont be factory but should be close and keep costs down.

 
...it is now out there for you to take the gamble on. I haven't even met the guy and I am only going through my coaters.
Yeah sorry, I'm out. I don't want to plunk down that kind of cash without a prototype or some kind of example of the work we could expect.
 
...it is now out there for you to take the gamble on. I haven't even met the guy and I am only going through my coaters.
Yeah sorry, I'm out. I don't want to plunk down that kind of cash without a prototype or some kind of example of the work we could expect.
I agree. I wouldn't even begin to show cash until a prototype is made.

I kept thinking you could just buy a aero city for 550 but then again unless your picking it up your in for another 500$ shipping. The pros to these would be the low cost of shipping.

Alberto makes just the inside most panel which is much smaller for $99 but his also has a sticker on it.

I would imagine to produce a full cabinet originally must have been a lot of money. =O

I didn't want to derail my cabinet thread with this stuff but they kept insisting it could be done. I will tell them tomorrow in person unless he's willing to make a prototype I doubt anyone is willing to fork that cash up front.

I'd much rather just have my own panel coated by now and back in my hands but figured it was worth the wait for the potential it had for the community.




On a different note, I have applied the glass sticker hoagtech sent me and the washers I found. Everything turned out excellent!
 
...it is now out there for you to take the gamble on. I haven't even met the guy and I am only going through my coaters.
Yeah sorry, I'm out. I don't want to plunk down that kind of cash without a prototype or some kind of example of the work we could expect.
I agree. I wouldn't even begin to show cash until a prototype is made.
I kept thinking you could just buy a aero city for 550 but then again unless your picking it up your in for another 500$ shipping. The pros to these would be the low cost of shipping.

Alberto makes just the inside most panel which is much smaller for $99 but his also has a sticker on it.

I would imagine to produce a full cabinet originally must have been a lot of money. =O

I didn't want to derail my cabinet thread with this stuff but they kept insisting it could be done. I will tell them tomorrow in person unless he's willing to make a prototype I doubt anyone is willing to fork that cash up front.

I'd much rather just have my own panel coated by now and back in my hands but figured it was worth the wait for the potential it had for the community.




On a different note, I have applied the glass sticker hoagtech sent me and the washers I found. Everything turned out excellent!
Oooooooooh. Please do share good man..
 
Just an idea/temporary solution, im assuming these cabs are home use.
So I have dabbled with mold making and resin casting in the past. You might be able to silicone mold the main door, make a plug and cast multiples.
For the silicone you can use smooth cast omoo 30 or mold star 30 since its a 1 to 1 mix ratio, low viscosity, and vacuum degassing is not needed.
For the resin, you can use smooth cast 60d for durability or if you know your stuff something stronger.
No bends or welding. Just pour the resin, dry, pop the part out.
Sand, prime, then paint. The end result should look great but its going to require a lot of prep work.
The back side of the main door has openings where the silicone could seep through, so it will need to be sealed with clay.
 
Just an idea/temporary solution, im assuming these cabs are home use.
So I have dabbled with mold making and resin casting in the past. You might be able to silicone mold the main door, make a plug and cast multiples.
For the silicone you can use smooth cast omoo 30 or mold star 30 since its a 1 to 1 mix ratio, low viscosity, and vacuum degassing is not needed.
For the resin, you can use smooth cast 60d for durability or if you know your stuff something stronger.
No bends or welding. Just pour the resin, dry, pop the part out.
Sand, prime, then paint. The end result should look great but its going to require a lot of prep work.
The back side of the main door has openings where the silicone could seep through, so it will need to be sealed with clay.
I've thought about making silicone molds to make arcade parts before... but I admit I'm no expert. What is the long term durability of these types of things though. do they get brittle and chip away after 10 years?

I wouldn't recommend replacing metal parts with plastic or resin ones... but definitely into the idea for replacing existing plastics.
 
to be honest if it lasts 10 years + I think it served its purpose. By that time, an authentic door could be sourced already.

Looking at their other products 70D is the strongest resin. Just like any material itll eventually get a couple scratches n chips. I dont see it becoming brittle over time.

But like you said it's not recommended to replace metal parts with plastic.
 
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