Kavas' Sega Aero City Restoration

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    • hoagtech wrote:

      9. I am dreading applying this. I saw one post that set their rolled graphics out flat for a few days and claimed that help with ripples and bubbles. I'm definitely going to do that
      Just an idea. Hit up craigslist or something like that and find either an Vinyl guy or a local decal person to do it. I can't imagine they would charge you too much. Large stickers like that are not easy to apply (in my opinion). Some people seem to have knack for it but I certainly don't. Even when I go slow and try really hard I always seem to drop something or do something stupid to screw it up.

      I also got two aeros from this batch. Mine are shipping today or soon. I have been lurking over both of your threads lol.
    • Yes thanks everyone. Last night I looked into the Nanao monitor and found this thread : Cap Kit Projects for Monitor Chassis/PSU's/PCB's

      Which goes over most of what you are saying here. I already pulled apart the PSU and removed and documented the capacitors.



      There may be already a cap list for this particular unit but I went ahead and did it myself anyways. Next up is cleaning and taking down all caps on the monitor. I will put in the effort. Was just concerned I might miss some as I heard there can be some pretty sneaky ones tucked away. Also noted people talk about some resistors being culprits, so I will look over those.


      nem wrote:

      Kavas wrote:

      Also will buy the filter cap.
      Remember to get a low impedance cap for the filter cap.

      Image shrinks and then resizes on white flashes...

      IMO everything in the power section should be low impedance. That's what the "off spec" comment could mean in the reviews. There's more to caps than just the voltage rating and capacitance.
      When searching for the big filter caps, atleast when limiting myself to nichicon, the choices were extremely limited. I will open up the brands it searches for and look specifically for "low impedence" and "high ripple" ? Usually figured anything nichicon would be top quality anyways. Thanks for the heads up amigo. :thumbup:
    • gamefreak054 wrote:

      hoagtech wrote:

      9. I am dreading applying this. I saw one post that set their rolled graphics out flat for a few days and claimed that help with ripples and bubbles. I'm definitely going to do that
      Just an idea. Hit up craigslist or something like that and find either an Vinyl guy or a local decal person to do it. I can't imagine they would charge you too much. Large stickers like that are not easy to apply (in my opinion). Some people seem to have knack for it but I certainly don't. Even when I go slow and try really hard I always seem to drop something or do something stupid to screw it up.
      I also got two aeros from this batch. Mine are shipping today or soon. I have been lurking over both of your threads lol.
      Get your art printed on air release vinyl. All you have to worry about is lining it up. It's cake if you take your time. There's no reason to be using rapid tack and a squeegee nowadays.
    • DecepticonZero wrote:

      gamefreak054 wrote:

      hoagtech wrote:

      9. I am dreading applying this. I saw one post that set their rolled graphics out flat for a few days and claimed that help with ripples and bubbles. I'm definitely going to do that
      Just an idea. Hit up craigslist or something like that and find either an Vinyl guy or a local decal person to do it. I can't imagine they would charge you too much. Large stickers like that are not easy to apply (in my opinion). Some people seem to have knack for it but I certainly don't. Even when I go slow and try really hard I always seem to drop something or do something stupid to screw it up.I also got two aeros from this batch. Mine are shipping today or soon. I have been lurking over both of your threads lol.
      Get your art printed on air release vinyl. All you have to worry about is lining it up. It's cake if you take your time. There's no reason to be using rapid tack and a squeegee nowadays.
      Did not realize something like this existed. I only have minimal experience in this category (I've applied cheap vinyl decals to various things). I probably will look into something like that when I get to this point then. Thanks for the suggestion.
    • Did a complete tear down today! Bolt by bolt. Info and picture dump incoming. Need the wisdom of my peers on some of these issues.

      So I went to a local sandblast powder coat guy. I showed him the pictures and explained what I wanted to have done. I mentioned there were dents, dings, and holes where there shouldn't be. He said to bring him some JB WELD and he will take care of the rest =O :thumbsup: Showed me a special hammer set he has for hammering out dents. There isn't anything too obnoxious and he said he can only do so much, but that is enough for me. Said he does everything from tire rims to props for Disneyland like King Kong and Aladdin 8| Couldn't give me a price on everything as I hadn't stripped it down yet and he said to shoot him some photos with me standing next to it.

      I agree with many folks here that these cabs actually can clean up pretty well with just some cleaning solution and water, but there are about 3 major areas I will highlight below that make me think a complete sand / powder treatment is in order.


      Firstly is this poor fella:



      The unwashed heathens who did this to the coin door. This is not just unacceptable, it is Sacrilegious. The lock bars they installed put holes into the door. There is no other way than too either Bondo or in the Sandblast guy's recommendation, JB WELD the holes.



      Also notice the lock mechanism latch is badly twisted. Hopefully he can straiten this out even just a little bit.



      There are even some on the main door.



      The second main issue is the right side of the cabinet has holes in it. I believe they must have bolted this next to another cabinet or something else, but there is 4 bolt holes and one large golfball sized hole. From my research online I have not seen these holes belonging there. I think JB WELD alone can handle the bolt holes, but the large golfball hole has me stumped. I think I may need either a patch, or maybe a tintag, those metal tin circles roofers use to secure down tar paper. Any suggestions are welcome.



      The last main reason I will go with a complete sandblast powdercoat is the control panel.



      The rest of the cab doesn't nearly have the rust that this thing has! Even a good sanding might not do it. I don't want to lay new CP artwork over this without it cleaned up.



      Now the guy has asked me to label and mark every location that I want him to patch up!


      The above picture, those two dots under the CP. I have seen those on other cabinets so I will leave them alone, but I cannot find out what their purpose is.





      There is a screw above the lock, then there is a big bolt above on the top middle part. They are just there. I don't see any purpose for them. Does anyone know? I have removed them for the process, maybe I should just have them patched up?



      Other side below the CP, not sure what this is for. I have removed it for painting. It appears on images of Aero City on the internet.



      What is this square hole on the CP for? There was a thread over at Arcade Otaku that asked the same thing with no answer. I will leave it as is and just have it painted I guess. Just wondering.

      Also, the metal bits that are shiny, like the coin hole above, the foot rest plate, the back handles, what would happen if they are sand blasted? Would it ruin the shine? They are in need of a scrubbing for sure. I see some folks mention having parts galvanized, but when I asked a co worker about the process he said it's very expensive. There are also some bolts and screws that might need some treatment. Suggestions welcomed.



      The rubber washers or grommets under the screws that hold the glass window down for the screen are all disintegrated. Can I find these at a local hardware store? Should I cut some rubber washers down to size?



      This plastic bezel is VERY thin and fragile. I read online they are not replaceable ? I will do a light cleaning on it and it should last me, but I am wondering if anyone has discovered a way to reinforce it or at least protect it from further destruction. Maybe a way to make a mold of it?



      Protip, the glass on the front frame piece that lifts is pretty much the backbone of the piece. Without it you can see this thin metal bends easily. When lifting this front access, be sure to lift with both hands as not to twist the glass and put uneven pressure on it!



      This device is some kinda alarm for the coin door? It wasn't connected to anything. Also I cannot find a way to remove the coin meter. It is the only part left with a connection inside the entire cabinet. Lastly, the foot rest plate is filthy, but maybe not a good idea to sandblast it? Would it hurt the metal?





      I even removed the bottom panel in hopes the guy can straiten out the base plate. I was hoping for access to remove the coin counter but there seems to be NO way to get it out! I don't want it ruined in the painting process. I also noticed I am missing one of the feet... what do I do? Message KC in hopes he can provide me one?





      This is under the light attachment. You can see how filthy this cabinet is.



      I can break it down no further than this. It is held together by weld and rivets.



      I bagged all the bolts, screws and small hardware and labeled them so I wouldn't mess up the reassembly!



      TODO: Clean it up, and carefully remove all stickers and try to preserve them.



      Also cleaned up the monitor chassis. Waiting on the caps to arrive.


    • That coin meter is a finger cutter.

      It has 4 plastic tabs behind the meter itself, meaning you have to undo them from the rectangle hole next to it.

      There is no way a finger can fit in there at that angle so I used a ratchet with a extension attachment to reach in at a long right angle and pull each tab to pop it out.

      If their are no disconnects from the leads leave yourself room on the wire to reattach.

      I wouldnt use JB weld on any metal finish. Use a tig or a mig or find someone with one, and fill the holes with sheet metal and lumpy weld marks (especially on the back), then angle grind the welds to a flush finish.

      I would remove those alarms. They are unnecessary.

      At least they put they put those bars on your original service door.

      Mine was made of plywood and a weird lock.
    • take the one you have to the hardware store and find a nut that goes on it?

      and yes the two holes on the front of the control panel are for headphone jacks. there's a small pcb that goes there, or if you don't have it there's a metal cover plate for the holes (which it looks like you do have).
      Woodies: Xevious, Pac-Man, Dig Dug, Donkey Kong, Joust Cocktail, Space Invaders, 3-KOAM Red Angle
      Candies: 3x Aero City, New Astro City, 2x Blast City, Net City
      VAPS
    • nem wrote:

      Kavas wrote:

      I also noticed I am missing one of the feet... what do I do?
      They're standard metric size leg levelers. You can order similar ones from eBay. You probably won't find an exact match, but does it matter?
      To a degree it does. While no one is ever gonna really notice it unless I specifically point it out, 'I' will notice it. It is something I have noticed a lot lately now that I have experience working on monitors/cabinet restorations. I notice not everyone even bothers to keep their cabinets in working condition let alone aesthetically good to look at. I was talking to some guy at a recent arcade convention and he had a big blue aliens vs predator machine there. It had lots of chips in the wood and the paint was fading, but overall would clean up nicely if a little TLC was put into it. He didn't want to bother. I could have had it looking new for under 50$. I smile every time I walk past my arcade restores. It bothers me when I see a monitor fading away at some barcade, or someone used a paint roller half-assed with speckled paint up and down the sides of a cabinet, not even matching the colors. I understand not all of these parts are easy to come by, but I think it is unacceptable to display something in your personal collection so run down. To them I say "GTFO fair weather fans". I will at least try to source these feet and if I cannot for an acceptable price, then I will seek out a replacement.

      matman wrote:

      What exact size are the leg levelers? M8?
      I don't know, they are pretty small. I will take it to a local hardware store at some point if I cannot source an original. It's not my highest priority right now but it is inevitable to be fixed as it would be dangerous to leave a cabinet unsteady like that. Just trying to get the conversation and ball rolling for the time when I do get around to it.



      Pretty darn small.


      KaPH33n wrote:

      and yes the two holes on the front of the control panel are for headphone jacks. there's a small pcb that goes there, or if you don't have it there's a metal cover plate for the holes (which it looks like you do have).
      Thank you. I did eventually stumble on a old thread somewhere that described the audio jack holes, but never seen a picture of one installed. I also found out the other side is a hole for a coin counter that mimics neo cabs. I have both plates that cover these holes and will have them sanded and painted.
    • nice job for organizing I went to Walmart and got one of those plastic trays that hold fishing hooks, supplies, buttons, or sewing stuff and put a piece of tape across the top and labeled it with a marker for my screws and bolts. I did it in order of break down so when I go to put everything back together it will be in order of last to first.

      It’s smart to powder coat everything way stronger than automotive paint.

      Just like I never understood why people with sega fiberglass cabs automotive paint them. They need to be re gel coated by someone that sprays and fixes boats for a living. Much stronger than automotive paint and won’t crack. Maybe most people don’t realize the cabs are essentially just boat hulls.
    • jimmyjames wrote:

      nice job for organizing I went to Walmart and got one of those plastic trays that hold fishing hooks, supplies, buttons, or sewing stuff and put a piece of tape across the top and labeled it with a marker for my screws and bolts. I did it in order of break down so when I go to put everything back together it will be in order of last to first.

      It’s smart to powder coat everything way stronger than automotive paint.

      Just like I never understood why people with sega fiberglass cabs automotive paint them. They need to be re gel coated by someone that sprays and fixes boats for a living. Much stronger than automotive paint and won’t crack. Maybe most people don’t realize the cabs are essentially just boat hulls.
      I would love to see someone rowing a candy cab down a river! :evil:

      Hmm yea that might have been a good idea to organize the bolts and such. I just used the bags I had saved from all the digi-key orders.