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@Kavas - Ok boss...if you are going to start crimping lots of terminals......get a pair of these....

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Profes...ds=ratcheting+pin+crimp&qid=1589103887&sr=8-5

They ratchet, so you can set the pin in the connector, tighten to the first click, to hold it in, and then have time, and hand free to properly insert the wire and crimp properly. Terminal crimping is an art, honestly, and it's worth devoting the time to get the right tools, and do it correctly.
This guys crimps are a bit different, but the video and science are sound.


As for the speaker wires...."2 becomes 4" underneath the black edge connector, that your jamma loom card slots into. There are 2 lines a + and a -, and those lines get multiplied into 4 +'s and 3 -'s with some clear/white bean crimps, behind that black connector. 2 +'s and 2 -'s get sent up in a red 4position housing, up to the speakers, where each speaker gets a pair, per normal *There is another break in this line, with red housings installed, up near the speakers, for easy removal of the "head" that has the speakers and florescent fixture*. The other 2 +'s and one -, go to the three position red housing, and from there, to a white 3pin JST connector in the control panel, which is for the headphone amp/adapter circuitry.

Changing wiring up to handle Mono/Stereo AND Line level/Amp Audio gets more complicated than I'd ever want to hack in on a cabinet that doesn't have it already. I have already had to repair the audio panel from an E3/AWSD that someone chopped all connectors on, and pin it back into a harness I bought. That was enough nightmare for me....3 volume pots, stereo/mono switch, daisy chained wiring....it sucked. My Aero is handling classics, jamma multi pcb's like the bitkit/jrok, and the occasional classic pcb/jamma adapter. There's no need for me to hack mine.


Hope all this info helps.
 
@Kavas - Ok boss...if you are going to start crimping lots of terminals......get a pair of these....

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Profes...ds=ratcheting+pin+crimp&qid=1589103887&sr=8-5

They ratchet, so you can set the pin in the connector, tighten to the first click, to hold it in, and then have time, and hand free to properly insert the wire and crimp properly. Terminal crimping is an art, honestly, and it's worth devoting the time to get the right tools, and do it correctly.
This guys crimps are a bit different, but the video and science are sound.


As for the speaker wires...."2 becomes 4" underneath the black edge connector, that your jamma loom card slots into. There are 2 lines a + and a -, and those lines get multiplied into 4 +'s and 3 -'s with some clear/white bean crimps, behind that black connector. 2 +'s and 2 -'s get sent up in a red 4position housing, up to the speakers, where each speaker gets a pair, per normal *There is another break in this line, with red housings installed, up near the speakers, for easy removal of the "head" that has the speakers and florescent fixture*. The other 2 +'s and one -, go to the three position red housing, and from there, to a white 3pin JST connector in the control panel, which is for the headphone amp/adapter circuitry.

Changing wiring up to handle Mono/Stereo AND Line level/Amp Audio gets more complicated than I'd ever want to hack in on a cabinet that doesn't have it already. I have already had to repair the audio panel from an E3/AWSD that someone chopped all connectors on, and pin it back into a harness I bought. That was enough nightmare for me....3 volume pots, stereo/mono switch, daisy chained wiring....it sucked. My Aero is handling classics, jamma multi pcb's like the bitkit/jrok, and the occasional classic pcb/jamma adapter. There's no need for me to hack mine.


Hope all this info helps.
I have that exact pair of crimpers. Like I said I have no problem with most crimping and did the power and player sections of the harness perfectly. Those jst connectors are just so damned small that the wire seemed to cut in half. I'll order the wires pre crimped and take care of it that way, will just be a couple more days.

The second part of your explanation about the 2 becomes 4 was incredibly confusing, i'll have to re-read it a few times. Pictures go a long way. But basically what your trying to tell me is don't make it complicated and keep it simple. I hear you there. I spent more time tinkering with my Chewlix than I have playing it. It is a MAME cabinet tho...

I saw this thread and it just got me thinking ya know.
 
I have that exact pair of crimpers. Like I said I have no problem with most crimping and did the power and player sections of the harness perfectly. Those jst connectors are just so damned small that the wire seemed to cut in half. I'll order the wires pre crimped and take care of it that way, will just be a couple more days.
The second part of your explanation about the 2 becomes 4 was incredibly confusing, i'll have to re-read it a few times. Pictures go a long way. But basically what your trying to tell me is don't make it complicated and keep it simple. I hear you there. I spent more time tinkering with my Chewlix than I have playing it. It is a MAME cabinet tho...

I saw this thread and it just got me thinking ya know.
Sorry boss....didn't catch that part...wasn't trying to condescend.

Ok...so on the black card edge connector....behind it, you'll see 4 pink wires, and also 3 grey wires, separately bundled, and crimped in a few of these....

https://www.digikey.com/product-det...MI9b35rMKp6QIVrP_jBx11JALnEAQYASABEgIeKPD_BwE

This is what I mean, when I say Bean connector.

The actual wire from the edge connector goes in, and gets tied to all the extra wires, which then go out to the speakers, and the 3pin connector in the control panel.
 
Ah, I was wondering what those were called. I think I have it figured out. Placed another digikey order. Will follow up soon :thumbsup:
 
For crimping smaller stuff like JST - I use one of these

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WPT5M1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Be aware that different connectors require different gauge wire to correctly crimp

For thicker wire, you might need to use the official tool, which is crazy expensive.

There's also a manual one that's recommended on arcadeotaku

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TKG11G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use the Hozan crimper for the vast majority of things. Can't believe it almost doubled in price, though.
 
Just to be sure, this monitor just plugs into an electrical socket? No iso transformer? Seems weird.
 
Correct. there is a 2prong female cord, coming from the power supply, that runs up the back, to the 2prong male connector.

No Iso transformer, it's built into the chassis. Not weird...Nanao was ahead of its time. While WGK7000's in 19/25/27 were all still requiring Iso's, Nanao moved that to the chassis, and bypassed the need for the extra weight and space, inside the cabinet. I'm not familiar with ANY candy's that actually required an ISO for the monitors. I know that the Crazy Taxi and Jambo Safari uprights, in the Naomi Universal cabs had them, but that was to keep the hum out of the subwoofers, if im not mistaken.
 
Ladies and Gentleman, we have a winner!

Open Grommet Compatible Hole Diameter 8 mm | .313 in Inside Diameter 4.8 mm | .188 in Overall Diameter 11.1 mm | .438 in Panel Thickness 6.4 mm | .250 in

69ssZsS.jpg


CIIti78.jpg


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BeRZH4I.jpg


Please excuse the messy glass black parts and screws, I have a new one from @hoagtech in the mail and it will clean up nicely.

Can't believe it though. This company sent me 4 different sample sizes that I picked from hundreds of samples. I went to plenty of different websites and hardware stores and these guys were the only ones who did free samples. Unfortunately they only do Standard sizes instead of metric so I had to do rough estimates on the conversions. Nothing is perfect. There is still a bit of left over with it going through but its hardly noticeable. The flange part fits almost perfectly under the original bolt heads. I would have preferred a bit more of the flange part to be thicker though. I tried the other 3 but even tho the thickness was correct, the flange is so thick it is hard to get them in the glass. These ones were almost pop in. And the bolt fits great.

Now that we have the rough size in standard, we can do some more fishing and go with these in the mean time. It would be nice if some Euro folks could look around for metric sizes as metric is uncommon in the United States even tho we adapted it as our standard in 1975 :S We're a bit slow here.

Unfortunately these are a little over $5~ before shipping just for 4 of them. They get cheaper as the increments go up. I haven't checked the shipping costs but some of these companies can do upwards of $12. I know this is petty cash, just giving a heads up. Not sure if it's even worth it to go in for more for the discounts.



Lastly, if anyone can tell me which of these is supposed to be wired to the JAMMA monitor sync line, that would be appreciated. Just got my digikey order in with the stuff I need to finish the monitor off and possibly test if everything is working.

It's either V, H, or both.

XhTJACk.jpg
 
First time rewiring a cabinet fully,
First time doing a new JAMMA loom
Second time recapping/cleaning a monitor
First time burning myself with a soldering iron
Huge accomplishments!
 
First time rewiring a cabinet fully,
First time doing a new JAMMA loom
Second time recapping/cleaning a monitor
First time burning myself with a soldering iron

:thumbsup:

Congrats!
 
IT'S ALIIIIIIVEEE!!!

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Very nice work so far! Crimpin' ain't easy... :thumbup:
 
How many people are in need of coin box doors, main access panel doors, or the surrounding CP that houses the start buttons?

I just dropped off two pieces I forgot at the powder coaters and they said they were just thinking of me and a predicament I had mentioned in passing a couple weeks ago. They know a guy who's apparently a master metal worker, could reproduce a muffler 1:1. He's looking for work and seemed interested in our predicament.

I remain skeptical but my guys assured me they think he can do the job should it be worth his time. I had mentioned between 5-10 pieces made for such a niche product. Not sure what you all are willing to pay for reproduction pieces.

I'll be dropping off my doors for him to look at and get me an idea of if he can do it and a price range.
 
we talked about the surrounds for the start buttons...but i need all of mine blank, and unmolested, with just the screw studs installed...no holes, no panel cut out...jsut plain sheet metal
 
What are you planning on doing?

Is it something we can all get in on?
 
Havent talked to anyone.....Like i said....I'm going to be making my own custom panels, using that full flat metal surround panel. That full sized panel, should hold a 3" trackball, or a Multi Williams layout, etc.

The small central panels are too small for a lot of that...so I'm using the larger size panel as the blank template, without the small panel cutouts.
 
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