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That may be difficult, as the cab is sandwiched in place. I'm pretty sure it hasn't been changed though.
Someone has definitely posted the 2933 resistor value before, I can help dig it up if needed.
It should be a 3 ohm resistor. I'm just wondering if there are different revisions.
 
That may be difficult, as the cab is sandwiched in place. I'm pretty sure it hasn't been changed though.
Someone has definitely posted the 2933 resistor value before, I can help dig it up if needed.
It should be a 3 ohm resistor. I'm just wondering if there are different revisions.
I guess it's possible, but doubtful there are multiple revisions IMO. There doesn't seem to have been a lot of them produced, supposedly they were a bug fixed 2931 revision that came pretty late.

Next time I have it out I'll double check tho.
 
the picture is dim and a little blurry, my guess is that the Chassis needs a cap kit.
My money is on it being an incorrect heater resistor. You have a 2932 chassis paired with a 2930/2931 tube and yoke. They're not entirely compatible. Similar issue when you pair a 30/31 with a 2933 chassis:

Dim Picture Nanao ms2931
I thought it might have to do with a component, that’s a simple fix. Shout out to you if you are right I’ll order a few tonight and we will see I can’t really do more so I’ll be starting the astro while I wait for parts and cap kits. I could pull the one from the 2931 I have but idk patience is a virtue I guess.
 
Well now time for the Astro dirty nicotine infused brown. So far it’s cleaning up pretty nice. I’m completely disassembling most everything and washing it. I’ll be sending one of my MS8 29s to sharp the other I’m gonna see if I can’t get working myself, I have to wait for cap kits to arrive but getting everything clean is top priority.

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148,000 plays, nuts i originally thought it said 14k but I was very wrong.

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So gross




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Simple green and hot water worked pretty good



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This was so dirty
 
@jimmyjames no need to ship it out, I'm firmly convinced Ed at Amusements Plus in Brighton can fix anything you bring him (I gave him one of the monitors from my Astros before I sold them, he said "Never seen one of these before" and had it fixed 2 days later)
 
@jimmyjames no need to ship it out, I'm firmly convinced Ed at Amusements Plus in Brighton can fix anything you bring him (I gave him one of the monitors from my Astros before I sold them, he said "Never seen one of these before" and had it fixed 2 days later)
I’m good, he replaced two caps in an astro city power supply and charged someone $200. That person wanted him to just take a look at it and get an estimate.
 
I’m good, he replaced two caps in an astro city power supply and charged someone $200. That person wanted him to just take a look at it and get an estimate.
Shit, I've gotten 3 different monitors fixed for less than that from him. Wonder what the deal was there.
 
I’m good, he replaced two caps in an astro city power supply and charged someone $200. That person wanted him to just take a look at it and get an estimate.
Shit, I've gotten 3 different monitors fixed for less than that from him. Wonder what the deal was there.
did you bring your whole monitor up? Or just the chassis.
 
did you bring your whole monitor up? Or just the chassis.
Whole monitor, all 3 times. Red Tent, Astro City, and X-Men. Vertical collapse twice, cracked flyback and full recap once.
He replaced IC’s for vertical collapse I bet, flyback and cap kit I would do anyway unless I send it out. That’s all pretty easy stuff I’ve done about 20 wells cap kits and flybacks. I have to diagnose both chassis first. One has the hot ic already desoldered so I bet that’s part of the issue. I can’t find flybacks for the ms8-29s so that sucks. If I can’t get it or figure it out I want a full diagnostic test done.

When you send your chassis off to sharp they hook it up to an oscilloscope and they check circuits,components, they replace the caps and if they can find a fly back they put one in. They check B+ And run diagnostics on it. More than what I’m capable of. I can however check and replace most of the components that go bad
 
did you bring your whole monitor up? Or just the chassis.
Whole monitor, all 3 times. Red Tent, Astro City, and X-Men. Vertical collapse twice, cracked flyback and full recap once.
He replaced IC’s for vertical collapse I bet, flyback and cap kit I would do anyway unless I send it out. That’s all pretty easy stuff I’ve done about 20 wells cap kits and flybacks. I have to diagnose both chassis first. One has the hot ic already desoldered so I bet that’s part of the issue. I can’t find flybacks for the ms8-29s so that sucks. If I can’t get it or figure it out I want a full diagnostic test done.
When you send your chassis off to sharp they hook it up to an oscilloscope and they check circuits,components, they replace the caps and if they can find a fly back they put one in. They check B+ And run diagnostics on it. More than what I’m capable of. I can however check and replace most of the components that go bad
Do you know how much it costs for a Sharp diagnostic or repair on Blast?
 
This is from Enrique he’s the owner it’s an old email so prices may have gone up



“current turn around time is 2-3 weeks and the estimated rate for the repair/rebuild of the chassis is 145-175$, assuming that its not the flyback.
that's going to include the repair of the problem & a full cap kit, transistors, resistors, i.c's...etc, pretty much a full overhaul of the chassis and us going through the rest of the board and neck card as well to check for any other bad components and replace those as well.
If it needs a new flyback we will add the price of that specific flyback for that chassis on top of the repair price.
All chassis are washed & tested before going out for re-installation to make sure everything is brand new looking and in perfect working conditions.
  • All of our repairs do have a 60 day warranty as well.”
 
I’ve been sick last few days, sucks
Anyway
I rewired the two prong to a three today so the earth Is connected. Then I tested everything with a multimeter.
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Why did you attach ground to the exterior?

I would have attached past the grommet to the 2 existing ground wires but if there’s a reason I would love to know
 
Why did you attach ground to the exterior?

I would have attached past the grommet to the 2 existing ground wires but if there’s a reason I would love to know
the original cord is two wires that go through, I didn’t want to stress the old hole and wanted to use the original clamp. Plus this is generally how the earth would be in Japan. I also think it looks cool, but that’s just me.
 
I never had any problems fitting all three wires through the original clamp.
 
It looks like your using a 14 gauge cord. I would use a 16 gauge

14 gauge in my world are used for 1000w grow ballasts.

If you like the look. I wouldn't change it. You are your own customer after all.
 
the picture is dim and a little blurry, my guess is that the Chassis needs a cap kit.
My money is on it being an incorrect heater resistor. You have a 2932 chassis paired with a 2930/2931 tube and yoke. They're not entirely compatible. Similar issue when you pair a 30/31 with a 2933 chassis:

[url='https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/index.php?thread/6005-dim-picture-nanao-
 
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