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Blast and Astro city projects

well it won’t let me reply under your quote for some reason


Ok so my back has been out for two weeks and had the flu before that. Anyway I got the resistors in the mail and I’m pretty sure this is the heater circuit. So I should have time to put it in Sunday or Monday and see if it works.
xNQdROp.jpg
 
so I started messing with the astro today and noticed this

@Lemony Vengeance what are these connectors?

NhhpEht.jpg


needles to say I’m not sure what could have caused this but it bugged me.

I have a ms8-29fak I’ve been messing with. I grabbed it off of eBay as I didn’t get one with the cab. The hot was blown so I replaced it. I put a new fuse in and decided to test it and it turned on for a second and the fuse blew. The good thing is for a second I started to see glow. I looked at the front of the monitor and there was a line across the center. I have to figure out how to test a few more things and hopefully I can get it squared away. Then I have the intention to yoke swap a ms9 or ms8 with a chassis into a blast using the blast city tube. However doing a ms2932 chassis and altering the heater resistor to make that work. I can tell you that the 2931 has trash corner convergence and it’s all around disappointing even from the 2932 perspective. I would avoid a blast city in the future if I was anyone into this hobby. My toshiba PF blows its doors of. It blows the 2932 vga out of the water to. Best monitor to have.
 
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So it looks like I may be suffering from a fried HDT at Q532

I most likely blew the HOT at Q533

and I need to test Q901 as I hear it can also be bad in this situation.

I still have to do a cap kit

are these transistor replacements common on mouser I wonder? I’ll have to see what equivalents I can get.


I currently have 3 ms8-29 chassis just got another this week. One is gonna be a parts chassis to many repairs and the HDT area is fried so bad the solder pads weren’t even on the board. I have to order some parts this week and record all the capacitors. I also have to find a list for the power supply caps and figure out what transistors need replacing.


the chassis I got this week is in amazing condition. The HDT area doesn’t even look used. On most ms8s this area is brown. The neck board was rough so I replaced it with the one of the parts chassis as it’s was way nicer. Looks like the neck board got sandwiched on the newer one.
 
Good luck. I had my chassis’s recapped it turned out it was the tubes that were worn out.

That sounds rough on your parts chassis.

Where did you get them from. Are they KC cabs?
 
hoagtech said:
Good luck. I had my chassis’s recapped it turned out it was the tubes that were worn out.

That sounds rough on your parts chassis.

Where did you get them from. Are they KC cabs?
Click to expand...
nah I bought two non properly working projects for cheap af of a forum member. I was suppose to get two Aeros from KC when you got yours but he wouldn’t take PayPal from me because he owes them 30k. I had $400 on my card in rewards points so I literally got a free cab out of it and although chassis I got are messed tubes both work so I was happy with that.
 
so I looked at the chassis I got this week and because both ones I have now have hdt and hot issues I thought to first look at these issues and what do I see? Problem identified it’s most likely the HDT. The area where the resistor is blown is honestly lighter than any other ms8 I have ever seen. This area is usually so burnt that it’s brown and the solder pads are useless when repairing.
OMQIaO5.jpg
 
jimmyjames said:
so I started messing with the astro today and noticed this

@Lemony Vengeance what are these connectors?

NhhpEht.jpg


needles to say I’m not sure what could have caused this but it bugged me.

I have a ms8-29fak I’ve been messing with. I grabbed it off of eBay as I didn’t get one with the cab. The hot was blown so I replaced it. I put a new fuse in and decided to test it and it turned on for a second and the fuse blew. The good thing is for a second I started to see glow. I looked at the front of the monitor and there was a line across the center. I have to figure out how to test a few more things and hopefully I can get it squared away. Then I have the intention to yoke swap a ms9 or ms8 with a chassis into a blast using the blast city tube. However doing a ms2932 chassis and altering the heater resistor to make that work. I can tell you that the 2931 has trash corner convergence and it’s all around disappointing even from the 2932 perspective. I would avoid a blast city in the future if I was anyone into this hobby. My toshiba PF blows its doors of. It blows the 2932 vga out of the water to. Best monitor to have.
Click to expand...
Unsure, my man, I know that these style of connectors are not commonly obtainable by normal humans though. @Mitsurugi-w may know.
 
So this was on hold until I started working again as Covid hit and I wasn’t spending any money at all. No room for it when I wasn’t working.that being said I’m glad to be open.

I started by recapping the power supply.
RnmTIl8.jpg





Next I had to deal with the burnt out yoke harness and make an adapter for the MS8 Yoke to the MS9 chassis
FmGaehx.jpg


Then I put in a sharp overhauled MS9 chassis in
baPUPsY.jpg

I have to make some adjustments still but I’m almost in the home stretch
7zMU6f7.jpg
ZXz5I2C.jpg

grabbed some parts from digikey and focus attack to make a 1p 4 button harness and did so today

RvtqR3v.jpg
 
Looks great...but you should really go back and heatshrink those exposed bits on your yoke adapter. A chassis going out is one thing...but something crossing those, to short a yoke is an entirely different matter.

Due to the voltage they carry, I'd probably even double cover em....but I try to be super cautious.

Congrats on the progress.
 
bagheera369 said:
Looks great...but you should really go back and heatshrink those exposed bits on your yoke adapter. A chassis going out is one thing...but something crossing those, to short a yoke is an entirely different matter.

Due to the voltage they carry, I'd probably even double cover em....but I try to be super cautious.

Congrats on the progress.
Click to expand...
it’s definitely something on the list including a fan to blow on the chassis to cool it down among other things.
 
So I decided to add stereo today. Got all the gear Friday and Saturday to do it. I wanted to use a line level converter so I would be able to use RCA cables. This is everything I used beside the amp up and wire.
XFa20ND.jpg



Then I made a guid to fallow to make it easy to wire everything.

RjqsaEq.jpg


Took me a bit to make the harnesses and get everything squared away. I haven’t changed the speakers but it already sounds incredibly better.
inrjgWY.jpg
 
jimmyjames said:
So I decided to add stereo today. Got all the gear Friday and Saturday to do it. I wanted to use a line level converter so I would be able to use RCA cables. This is everything I used beside the amp up and wire.
XFa20ND.jpg



Then I made a guid to fallow to make it easy to wire everything.

RjqsaEq.jpg


Took me a bit to make the harnesses and get everything squared away. I haven’t changed the speakers but it already sounds incredibly better.
inrjgWY.jpg
Click to expand...
Hopefully more bass would be cool.
 
I’m am so surprised by how it sounds and I haven’t even put the speakers in yet. The bass and treble control make such a difference on the OEM speakers. I am gonna put the speakers in tomorrow. They looke 1 for 1 on bolt pattern. If not I’ll let everyone know.
 
just a heads up @ReplicaX wanted me to let everyone know that both rca plugs are not plugged in at the same time. It’s impossible to do but he thought some of you might try. DO NOT SPLICE THE RCAS TOGETHER INTO THE AMP.
 
Aye, I recommend just snagging a mini RCA switcher if you don't want to swap RCAs between stereo and mono.
 
I bought a few chassis as parts. One I couldn’t figure out the other was pretty simple. Well I don’t feel bad apparently the board was damaged so bad sharp had to use a spare extra. Anyway it’s on it’s way back. I felt defeated sending it out to them but my knowledge only goes so far. Next project is a yoke and chassis swap in a blast city. Can’t wait. I live for this shit.
 
so I’m gonna need some help
@nem @Radiantsvgun

so I swapped a ms8-29 chassis and yoke onto a ms2931 tube tonight, twice with two different ms8s , It was not successful. There Was a bad noise so I made a quick video for reference and thought I killed my tube. However when transferring back to the ms2932 chassis with the heater resistor trick it was fine. I’m gonna take measurements from the yoke again tomorrow it was a little off from what @nem had listed on the we swap thread..
F7DAo1T.mp4

Back to normal with the ms2932

nPgJUjr.mp4












Not sure what my next step is maybe settle and fix my ms2931 and hope when the hv goes the sub board doesn’t blow the tube. I could also try a different combo like a ms2932 yoke and chassis. Lmk what you think though.
471wdxz.jpg
 
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Sounds to me like there's something wrong with the chassis? The tube is obviously fine. There's no reason why it shouldn't work (although will it look good is a different matter entirely).

So you picked up a full MS8-29 monitor, had vertical collapse, sent the chassis in for repair. Received a different, said to be working chassis. Am I following this correctly? Did you test it on the original monitor?
 
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