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Rg111

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I have 2 control panels that are in decent condition, but are slightly yellow. (I assume this is from cigarettes?)

Is there a way to remove this, or do I just keep the lights dimmed?
 
I have seen videos of a guys de-yellows a dreamcast using a clear bucket full of water. The water is made of 12% hydrogen peroxide and UV light. Seems to have left it for about 24hr and ti came out pretty good. Check out his video. His is the link:
 
That's a really cool video. I'd be concerned if the process would damage the overlay.

Edit: Mind you, this is from being in a smoky environment, not the flame retardant.
 
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OK. Yeah i dont know how the overlay would do to be honest. I though it was a bare plastic part.
 
Before retrobrighting anything, apparently some plastic can turn very brittle from the process. Something to keep in mind, since you probably don't want your CP breaking down to pieces.
 
ive done lots of this over many years and have honed a decent technique which works well for me.
however it does not work forever, it will re-yellow again, always.

sometimes it looks so amazing and new after the process, but sure as hell it will yellow again, faster the second time.

:(
 
This is all good information guys, thank you.

Anyone have any experience with Novus 123?

I was checking out this guy's video, and thought I'd research the product some more.

 
It's not from cigarettes, and all that retrobright stuff is temporary, it will just yellow again over time.
Anyone have any experience with Novus 123?
Novus is great, but it's just a mild abrasive polishing compound really. Super handy stuff, but just gotta keep in mind that's what it is.
 
@Aurich - I'll test it on my "replaceable" panel first and see how it turns out.

@evilsim - What type of products were you using on your panels?
 
@evilsim - What type of products were you using on your panels?
I use a bleachy-smelling hair product which is highly oxygenated from chemist shops. (hi-lift creme peroxide 20%)
I apply the stuff in big blobs all over the yellowed item with a paint brush
I put them into large zip-locked sealed plastic bags.
Then they go into my UV chamber (a cardboard box with all walls covered in aluminium foil)
The UV light I use is a 50-80watt LED UV light I got from ebay years ago. Dont go too close with the light, you want to bake low and slow.
I leave it in there for days until all the yellowing has gone, then wash it all off (gently) with warm soapy water. Doing this I have even been able to clean NES front lid with printed writing on them and none of the text comes off at all.

Be gentle and take your time, keep the plastic sealed or you will need to continually re-apply the goop. If you dont have it sealed and you keep re-applying you may end up with bleach burns all over your item.

hope this helps someone :)
 
Anyone have any experience with Novus 123?
I recently bought a small Novus 123 kit, and I can vouch for using it on clear plastics.

It turned a REALLY scuffy PGM cart shell into something that looks REALLY good. The key is to use all three steps and spend time grinding out the scratches, and knowing when to move onto the next step.

There's some decent tutorials on YouTube you can reference. Shouts to @oneleaf86 for first hipping me to this product.
 
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