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I'd let them know.
I've notified them of at least a dozen mistakes over the years. Keeps sending out the same kits. Notifying them is pointless.
Dang. Well I guess it's best to just use official manuals for these things. Here's one in English for the Nanao MS8 29FSG.

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/D/Daytona 1 USA1.pdf

"BP" next to the capacitor voltage name means "Bipolar", pg 86.

I'm sure everyone here already knows this stuff, but I like to type these things out for lurkers looking to fix their arcades. No way I could have fixed mine if it weren't for cool people documenting their projects on forums like this.
 
Possibly the final update for this machine. I got everything working, finally!

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Got those wheels and footplate installed!

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The issue that took the longest to solve was getting a clean 240p image out of a windows 10 computer. In a nutshell, I used CRT emu with super resolutions and MAME, along with a J-pac. But I kept getting noise on my video signal.

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You can see a lot of white spots around Sakura and the dark blue background. It doesn't look that bad from the screenshot, but in a moving game it really bugged me. I tried so many different things. Checking grounds all over the cabinet, adjusting software settings, bypassing the j-pac, different GPU, different power supply, different computer, none of it worked.

What it ended up being is that the signal needed a low pass filter between the computer and J-pac. I got a THS7314 RGB amplifier that has a LPF built in. Since I couldn't have both the J-pac and THS7314 amplifying the signal, it required a LOT of pulldown resistance both on the input and output sides. I spliced the LPF into the VGA cable. For more info on this stuff, check out my thread over on arcadecontrols.com.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,162118.0.html

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The signal cleaned up nicely!

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The coil squealing from the chassis came back unfortunately, even after shoving a toothpick underneath it.

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I tried finding a replacement for it, but all I know is that it's a choke coil. Not enough to go on. So I bought a busted Nanao MS8-25F chassis.

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I replaced the coil, and it's quiet again! I'll use that chassis for spare parts if anything else goes wrong. I also wanted to fix the convergence on the lower right corner of the screen, so I got some convergence strips from ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CRT-Yoke-S...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

But the magnets were so weak, I couldn't move the picture enough. While I was back there though, I did find a magnet that came loose so I taped that back on.

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For the front end, I wanted something simple, nice looking, and effective. I didn't want a ton of artwork ripped from various games floating around the screen with videos and sounds effects. It's just tacky to me. So I used "Arcade Flow" with Attract mode. Just big thumbnails, no sound, no video, and the background color changes based on the thumbnail highlighted. Perfect.

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It also needed an audio amplifier, so I got one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/PM2038-2X5W-Stereo-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B01NABJTDJ

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I considered wiring everything up for stereo, but the j-pac only supports mono, and I'd have to make a set of switches to go from stereo for the PC, to mono for Jamma boards. To me, it's important that I keep the cab capable of plug and play Jamma.

Someday I'll completely disassemble, repair the fiberglass, and repaint the entire cab so it'll look new again but for now, I'm happy with where it's at.

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Now if only the Dreamcast/Naomi emulator's 15khz mode worked....
 
Looks solid man!

Miss running offline sets with you, waiting for the day I can reopen again. But glad you have your cab in nice shape in the meantime.
 
Thanks! Yeah I miss the garage-cade nights. Hopefully it'll be safe sooner than later to run offline sets again.
 
Hey BumbleChump - thanks for this great thread. I just bought my first cabinet, an Astro City, and I've been digging for all of the repair/restore information I could find.
 
You're welcome! Let us know if you have any questions
 
I have now purchased an 18 inch, 17 watt T8 fluorescent light and was wondering how you got it in there. The lamp is way too short, I measured the old one has a length of 23.6 inches.
 
I have now purchased an 18 inch, 17 watt T8 fluorescent light and was wondering how you got it in there. The lamp is way too short, I measured the old one has a length of 23.6 inches.
I've seen lots of different fixture inside of Astros, I would just buy one that matches what you have instead of trying to match someone else's, they're not all the same. Maybe one is factory original or maybe they changed it over the years.
 
I just took a closer look at the bracket and noticed that the size of the tubes can be changed by 2 screws. If I push the bracket together, also fits an 18 inch.
 
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For fixing the image, I was on the right path in terms of pulling down the voltage. What I didn't need was the low pass filter though.
Turns out, the Astro's MS8 (and maybe MS9?) monitor doesn't like higher voltage boards. Makes areas of high contrast bleed and ghost.

I was getting the same issue with the mistercade as well. The solution is to add 270 ohm resistors in series to the RGB lines, and a 680-750 ohm resistor in series to the H-sync line. This lowers the voltage on the RGBS lines to levels that the MS8 is ok with. 0.7V RGB and -0.3V Csync in the mistercade's case.

So I made a little adapter that adds those resistors. You can get the parts on ebay easy.

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