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Danexmurder

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I've been working on modding my HORI Hayabusa to work with my HAS supergun. I've managed to get the directional controls all working properly by wiring the DB-15 port to the PCB inside the arcade stick.

The problem I've run into is that I can't get any of the face buttons to work properly. It seem that no matter how I wire them once I plug everything in the game thinks that all the face buttons are being pressed all at once. In fact this even happens if I Only wire up just button 1. (square on the stick)

I'm not new to modding and have done a lot of mods that are way more advanced than this for consoles and whatnot but this seemingly simple one has me stumped. Has any one else here seen anything like it? Thanks!
 
It seem that no matter how I wire them once I plug everything in the game thinks that all the face buttons are being pressed all at once. In fact this even happens if I Only wire up just button 1. (square on the stick)
You are on the common ground line, not actually button 1.
 
It seem that no matter how I wire them once I plug everything in the game thinks that all the face buttons are being pressed all at once. In fact this even happens if I Only wire up just button 1. (square on the stick)
You are on the common ground line, not actually button 1.
Yeah, I figured that that is what was happening but I've somehow been unable to avoid doing that. All I did was run a wire from the Square button terminal on the back of the square button to the corresponding button 1 terminal on the DB15 port. I made sure that it was that side and NOT the ground pin. Should I try to run a wire from the ground pin instead?
 
A multi-meter in continuity mode is going to be your best friend here.
Probe both of the terminals on button 1 to isolate which is common ground (ie present on more than one button).
 
A multi-meter in continuity mode is going to be your best friend here.
Probe both of the terminals on button 1 to isolate which is common ground (ie present on more than one button).
Yeah, I hear ya. The test I did was that I put one side of my multimeter on the actual DB15 pin and the other on the ground pin of the button. When I press the square button on the controller it would beep the same way as if I'd put the multimeter pins on both terminals of the button. I'll keep fooling around with it. Still, unless I have something backwards in my head it feels like it *should* work.
 
Your methodology/test is flawed... Probe one button vs/against another button to properly identify the common ground.
 
Your methodology/test is flawed... Probe one button vs/against another button to properly identify the common ground.
Ok, got home tonight and tested common ground for all the buttons. They are all using the right pin for ground. Left pin is then the line for the button signal. I wired the left pin of the square button to the button 1 pin on the DB15 connector.

When I turn on the HAS it still thinks the button is being pressed. What am I missing?


Here is a picture of the board. The right solder point is common ground for each face button. It should be as simple as running a wire from the left solder point of each face button to the corresponding DB15 pin right?

I also checked all the face button solder points to make sure they weren’t bridged.
 

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Yea if it probed out properly that's how I'd do it.
That PCB must be the issue, I know it won't be as clean but you could always resort to direct wire (ie .110 terminal crimped wire into DB15 connector).
Or... Trace cut (ExactO) the PCB so the contact is 100% free (naturally this will forever alter its functionality).
 
Yea if it probed out properly that's how I'd do it.
That PCB must be the issue, I know it won't be as clean but you could always resort to direct wire (ie .110 terminal crimped wire into DB15 connector).
Or... Trace cut (ExactO) the PCB so the contact is 100% free (naturally this will forever alter its functionality).
Yeah, it’s so strange. I mean, the directional buttons all work correctly when tapped that way. For whatever reason though it’s like the face buttons are using different logic or something.

The thing that is weird is it does the same thing when wired direct to the buttons and not from the PCB. Originally that was how I tried to do it.

I had thought it could be something with the PCB causing it. I was hoping that someone had bumped into something similar and figured it out.

Too bad the undamned adapters aren’t available any more. I’d just buy one of those and be done with it.
 
Yea if it probed out properly that's how I'd do it.
That PCB must be the issue, I know it won't be as clean but you could always resort to direct wire (ie .110 terminal crimped wire into DB15 connector).
Or... Trace cut (ExactO) the PCB so the contact is 100% free (naturally this will forever alter its functionality).
Yeah, it’s so strange. I mean, the directional buttons all work correctly when tapped that way. For whatever reason though it’s like the face buttons are using different logic or something.
The thing that is weird is it does the same thing when wired direct to the buttons and not from the PCB. Originally that was how I tried to do it.

I had thought it could be something with the PCB causing it. I was hoping that someone had bumped into something similar and figured it out.

Too bad the undamned adapters aren’t available any more. I’d just buy one of those and be done with it.
Hey, great news for you!

https://paradisearcadeshop.com/home...d-usb-decoders/1551_undamned-db15-usb-decoder
 
Yea if it probed out properly that's how I'd do it.
That PCB must be the issue, I know it won't be as clean but you could always resort to direct wire (ie .110 terminal crimped wire into DB15 connector).
Or... Trace cut (ExactO) the PCB so the contact is 100% free (naturally this will forever alter its functionality).
Yeah, it’s so strange. I mean, the directional buttons all work correctly when tapped that way. For whatever reason though it’s like the face buttons are using different logic or something.The thing that is weird is it does the same thing when wired direct to the buttons and not from the PCB. Originally that was how I tried to do it.

I had thought it could be something with the PCB causing it. I was hoping that someone had bumped into something similar and figured it out.

Too bad the undamned adapters aren’t available any more. I’d just buy one of those and be done with it.
Hey, great news for you!
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/home...d-usb-decoders/1551_undamned-db15-usb-decoder
thanks for the heads up! Ordered!
 
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