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tengugurl

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Hi!

So something unfortunate happened today, I was playing Street Fighter 5 on my Vewlix C and I got to Bison (Last level) and my monitor just turned off.
I can hear the speakers but, the video is not displaying.

I looked at the monitor PCB (Select, Menu, source, etc...)
and it doesn't turn on now and the LED is not turning green/ any color.

Before you ask... I figured I was fine as the PSU showed a tolerance range that would be fine for 120v.
Hindsight is 20/20 I did not use a step-down convertor 120v to 100v as the forums all point to the Wei Ya PSU being absolute garbage.

Did I destroy my monitor?
I am getting a step down convertor to see if this will help...

Anybody have a better PSU suggested to replace this one?
 
The PSU is in no way shape or form related to the monitor. It only powers JVS systems like a Naomi or System2x6. Since you're playing SFV you aren't actually even using the PSU and can unplug it entirely.

Your problem is elsewhere.

But the Wei-ya PSUs are very bad at taking in anything over 100v. Get a step-down regardless if you intend on running anything JVS or you'll end up having other issues down the road once you sort the monitor ones.
 
Do you have the original LCD in the cab or a replacement?

Are you talking about the JVS PSU on the left front side of the cab? Or the one at the very rear right hand side?

The monitor not turning on could be alot of things. Its own PSU, could be the inverted board, back light, etc...

The first thing to check is if the PSU (if original lcd) at the very back right hand side of the cab is getting power and if is is it outputting power and go from there.
Im not sure about the psu for the lcd, needing 100v, but the JVS Wei-Ya definitely does to output a steady voltage. The get a lot of crap, but I have yet to have one fail on me using a stepdown.
 
Hi! Thanks for replying, yes I have the original monitor still in the cab.

Just plugged the cab into the step down convertor and it's acting the same. Light bar turns on, fan, speakers but no activity from the monitor button PCB near the coin slot. ( Nor input on the screen)

So the power supply near the back right side is the JVS Wei YA?

I hope it will come back on its own but, knowing electronics it's probably toast somewhere.


I inspected the power supplies and I see no caps that are swollen nor corrosion.

I looked for fuses but didn't see them, I might need to unscrew them to inspect closer.

Worst case scenario, if the JVS Wei Ya is bad, do you know a replacement for them besides keeping it OEM?

Id hate to have to replace the monitor right now, that will come in time but hopefully not right now.

I need to find a schematic so I can see what power rating I should be getting out of the PSU
 
Oh also I have a PS4 inside, no JVS system. So I need to figure out the power supply for the monitor
 
Im not sure about the psu for the lcd, needing 100v
The monitor PSU is a TDK Lambda VS150P-24. The datasheet and label say 100-120VAC, and I can confirm that it works fine and is stable at 120V.
(The cabinet 12V supply is also a TDK Lambda VS series, also 100-120V).

My suggestion for troubleshooting is to take a BRIGHT flashlight and see if you can see any image on the monitor. If you can, then it's backlight related. Majority of LCD monitor failures are backlight issues are the inverters (the FC monitor has two).
 
You should have a 3rd PSU back there, mine is missing since I have the upgraded 1080p screens
IMG_4595.jpg
IMG_4596.jpg


If you remove the back/bottom cover you should have easy access to test with a multimeter if you have power going in/out, at the proper voltages, if so, then your power supply should be good and there is an issue with your lcd.

LIke adgenet says, most often than not, back lights/inverter are the things that fail the most on lcds, grab a flashlight/lamp and check.
 
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Thanks for the pic! That helps as I am going to probe that out

Just took a bright phone light up to the monitor and I don't see anything.
 
If your LCD is definitely broken and cannot be repaired, I can sell you one of the ones I replaced from my cabs.

Or you can wait a bit as there is a mounting bracket in the works to install a replacement LG monitor.
 
Awe, thank you Derick2k, not sure if you can DM on here but I'd like to investigate that if it comes to that and oooh i'd be really interested in pursuing a newer monitor and yeah, that would be cool to see the bracket.

Is that something you are working on or is it easy to find here in the forum?

I would be a lot happier working with a regular LCD rather than this unique setup as its different how the PSU is setup compared to most LCD monitors.

I have worked on a few LCDs and would know what I am looking at parts wise.

How it happened was I was playing just fine and then I saw a flicker and boom it was black.



 
You can also DIY a bracket solution fairly easily and use any monitor you want. I went that route when my FC monitor died.

I used this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SDBVCE/ , drilled some new holes to make it 200x100 compatible, some rivet nuts, longer bolts, along with some spacers for the bolts to get the distance right.
Depending on the replacement monitor you choose, especially with the trend of having the ports facing the rear these days (which is really dumb if you ask me), you will need to use right angle cables, and maybe notch the bracket as well A dremel makes quick work of that bracket.
 
So I just got the multimeter out and checked the output side of the board (that goes to the monitor) and I got a zero, aka nothing coming out.

Going to check the input
 
So I just got the multimeter out and checked the output side of the board (that goes to the monitor) and I got a zero, aka nothing coming out.

Going to check the input
I forget if the psu had an onboard fuse, if it does check that also.
 
Just checked the other PSU and I am getting a reading on it.

What do you think?

Rear PSU is not showing anything for input or output
 

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This is the rear PSU.

Still getting nothing from it. :(

There is a fuse but it's soldered into the board and shows White, I can't see if it was damaged. It's plastic?

Wonder if I did kill the PSU
 

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There is a fuse on the input side. Put your multimeter into continuity or resistance mode, and with the power cable to the cabinet disconnected, check for continuity across the fuse.
IMG_0953.JPG
 
Hi!
Just checked the fuse for continuity and it has it so fuse is good.

I ended up getting an LG 32" gaming monitor off Amazon last night.

I figured it would be cheaper in the long run as the Sanwa monitor would need a new PSU and possibly a inverter as it's not displaying anything at all.

Had this happen with a random LCD Monitor my sister was going to throw away, I tried to fix it but the parts were nearly as much as buying a new monitor.

So pics of my Monitor are soon to follow!
 
Plus the monitor has wavey hazing on it, probably cigarette smoke as this thing was oozing nicotine when I got it and it took a full bottle of green cleaner to get it to the point one could touch it without smearing their hands.

It was probably on its way out anyway
 
Not sure if you're going with that bracket, but here are some photos of what my install looks like. Not as nice as I'd like but it works well.
I've been meaning to redo at least the spacers by measuring properly so it's not a combination of stuff from my parts bin to get the correct spacing.
Hopefully you'll manage to do it better, though with the Vewlix side plastic on, you'd never know it was such a hackjob.

IMG_0960.JPG
 

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That looks great to me, I will have to make sure I do something like that when I get my monitor.Question, how do you get access to the Monitor easily?

Do you recommend going from the back or the front?

Just curious as I haven't looked at how to plan to unscrew/ asemble
 
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