Bought my first Model 2 board and I have no idea what I'm doing! Please help!

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    • Bought my first Model 2 board and I have no idea what I'm doing! Please help!

      I bought a House of the Dead board set! :D

      I have no idea how all of these parts connect up! 8|

      Please help me!

      This is what I bought - currently on its way to me now:


      I understand how the main board connects to the I/O board. Pretty sure the top-right PCB marked "1." is the gun + video board. The "2." PCB has something to do with power right? I looked up the part number and saw it was the power filter board, just not sure what it does/how it fits into the setup.

      In terms of what else I need, I will also be picking up:
      One of these: na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/80-1152-00
      Two of these: na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/96-2300-10SG

      Anything else I'm missing?

      Other than that, my main questions are:

      1. I read somewhere that the model 2 kits HAVE to be in the metal case or it doesn't run (something to do with how it's grounded.) Is this correct, or am I OK to mount the PCBs etc. to an MDF board (which is my current plan?) If I need the metal case then I'm probably going to have a hard time tracking one down for this.... Hopefully not necessary.

      2. How do all these dang PCBs and wires connect up! I've looked everywhere for a tutorial/guide on this stuff but nothing useful so far...

      3. I have a Sony PVM-14M2A which I need to push the video to, so I need to work out how video output is done on this hardware and how I can convert it to RGBS SCART (if possible?)


      Any brave souls out there willing to tackle all of my questions? 8|
    • I don’t have one of these so I’ll be light on the details. Closest I’ve come is hooking up a Jurassic park to a blast city, which is arguably easier.

      1. I doubt it needs the metal case, ground is ground. You may have to add grounding but that’s fine.

      2. Your wiring is in the manual, last page aurcade.com/games/manuals/00000489.pdf - it identifies all the extra pcbs.

      3. I don’t think that PVM accepts medium resolution 24khz, and that’s all the board puts out. You’ll need some downscaler and that’s a pain. Maybe you can confirm before we go there...
      cabs: sega blast city x2 | taito vewlix c + egret ii
      links: klov/vaps games list | custom fight sticks
      working on: logging repairs
    • See, I’m not sure because video output and gun function are very coupled. If you change the resolution you may get it to display, but I’m fairly sure the guns work anymore. Maybe someone else has experience with this but I’d be trying to find a mid-res monitor for that. Or I’d buy a Saturn to play this... which I did ;)
      cabs: sega blast city x2 | taito vewlix c + egret ii
      links: klov/vaps games list | custom fight sticks
      working on: logging repairs
    • ekorz wrote:

      See, I’m not sure because video output and gun function are very coupled. If you change the resolution you may get it to display, but I’m fairly sure the guns work anymore
      you are correct sir.

      no video converters on classic gun games, as soon as you mess with the video signal the guns wont track properly anymore.

      you'll need a medium resolution CRT based display to play this game.

      -----------

      as for how everything hooks up I have filterboard pinouts on my blog: solid-orange.com/1273

      the GUN IO (PCB1) I believe connects to the serial port but all you'll need to confirm that it runs is the power and video output.
      Buy 3D Printed Parts: bit-district.com
      Projects: instagram | blog
      Games: VAPS | VOOT | UMK3 | RFM | Vewlix | FiF Jr. | KI2 | E29 | Net City | DDR | Flash Beats
      Wanted | For Sale/Trade
    • I have a Virtua Cop 2 that is an equal nightmare. Exactly where does the video plug in on these things? The bottom of that last page of the HotD manual was cut off. Too bad some fucktard cut the cables on my guns, so I could only look at the pretty intro if I DO manage to get this going! Trying to get it working in a Blast and have NO CLUE how to do it.
    • nem wrote:

      CN7

      Check the filter board pinouts a few posts up.
      I believe the early Model 2 boards used by Daytona and Virtua Cop and the tank game have different filterboard setup, but with that said Sega was really good about not using the same sized connector for moe than one thing.

      I believe the video signal also needs to pass through the Gun IO, but like you said, that's not needed to get it booting.
      Buy 3D Printed Parts: bit-district.com
      Projects: instagram | blog
      Games: VAPS | VOOT | UMK3 | RFM | Vewlix | FiF Jr. | KI2 | E29 | Net City | DDR | Flash Beats
      Wanted | For Sale/Trade
    • nem wrote:

      segasonic91 wrote:

      Exactly where does the video plug in on these things?
      CN7
      Check the filter board pinouts a few posts up.

      It's pretty easy to get these at least booting and displaying an attract screen. Just connect power and video, you don't need anything else (technically you don't even need video, but you probably want to see it working ;) ).
      Thanks! Yeah, I know the RGB is CN7 but I am more confused about where the plugs lead to... I know it is not JVS, but how on Earth do these things connect normally without a jamma harness? Do they connect to the Blast i/o at all? The VC2 set up is especially confusing because of all the extra boards, and cables, lol! Was an... interesting introduction to the Model 2! Did dedicated cabs just have a special i/o? I also keep wondering how VF2 was connected to all those NACs in Japan. There does not seem to be a dedicated M2 harness like the M3 harness for the Blast. Ugh, sorry for the questions, I have been googling this shit for weeks and weeks and got no where. Not even a yt video!

      Second board I bought was a Virtua Striker, with the hopes of getting a Fighting Vipers ROM board or anything else but soccer really *yawn*. I have a jamma harness for the 2b so it worked no problem well, it WORKED, but no controls and no sound connector for the Blast's rca plugs. I guess the harness is not wired properly. I was wondering about the filterboard itself though. It is not the original because the dumbarses connected a jamma harness directly to the original filter board and my soldering iron is M.I.A at the moment. It only had 2 of the 3 pcb board connectors. Have not checked the original yet. It is still connected to the gross, disgusting cage that needs a good hosing out.


      twistedsymphony wrote:

      nem wrote:

      CN7

      Check the filter board pinouts a few posts up.
      I believe the early Model 2 boards used by Daytona and Virtua Cop and the tank game have different filterboard setup, but with that said Sega was really good about not using the same sized connector for moe than one thing.
      I believe the video signal also needs to pass through the Gun IO, but like you said, that's not needed to get it booting.
      Yeah, it is a complicated beast. I was lost for where to plug it in at the end of that long line, lol. It goes through 3 boards or at least has 3 extra boards!

      The post was edited 1 time, last by segasonic91 ().

    • The internet says that House of the Dead is a 2C CRX which means that the filter board pinout is below.


      The filter board is really just a breakout for those weird looking white connectors on the PC. They still sell those connectors and I've had success wiring straight to them and ditching the filter board.

      If you make sure that you hook up video, 5V and GND - you might get lucky and get a picture.

      If it doesn't you might have to connect up that other board to the main board - if it's anything like a Sega Model 1 I/O board then you'll need 5V and GND to it and then some RX and TX lines with associated GNDs.

      The manual is here manualslib.com/download/143819…he-House-Of-The-Dead.html

      If you look at the wiring diagram on the last page (attached) it will show you how how to hook everything up.

      Sega Model 1-3 stuff is super intimidating at first but ok once you get your head around the wiring diagrams

      Good Luck!

      Mark
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