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You can run a separate wired remote board via a USB C cable anywhere you need to. This wired remote board contains everything you need to operate the selector, that being tactile buttons and an OLED screen.

If you're able to leave your cab door slightly open you can also use any IR (infrared) remote control you may have lying around the house. E.g. OSSC remote, TV remote etc.

Perfect for your situation where the S16 PCB is tucked away inside a cab and not easily accessible.
Hello franck can you add on my order one wired remote board interconnected via a USB-C to USB-C cable please?
 
You can run a separate wired remote board via a USB C cable anywhere you need to. This wired remote board contains everything you need to operate the selector, that being tactile buttons and an OLED screen.

If you're able to leave your cab door slightly open you can also use any IR (infrared) remote control you may have lying around the house. E.g. OSSC remote, TV remote etc.

Perfect for your situation where the S16 PCB is tucked away inside a cab and not easily accessible.
I guess what I mean is instead of using the main board/remote board. Just use the main board with a longer cable on the dip header so that the main board can be mounted on the opposite side of the board.
 
You can run a separate wired remote board via a USB C cable anywhere you need to. This wired remote board contains everything you need to operate the selector, that being tactile buttons and an OLED screen.

If you're able to leave your cab door slightly open you can also use any IR (infrared) remote control you may have lying around the house. E.g. OSSC remote, TV remote etc.

Perfect for your situation where the S16 PCB is tucked away inside a cab and not easily accessible.
I guess what I mean is instead of using the main board/remote board. Just use the main board with a longer cable on the dip header so that the main board can be mounted on the opposite side of the board.
Indeed, totally possible. A 10 pin (5x2) way IDC cable will do the trick.
 
You can run a separate wired remote board via a USB C cable anywhere you need to. This wired remote board contains everything you need to operate the selector, that being tactile buttons and an OLED screen.

If you're able to leave your cab door slightly open you can also use any IR (infrared) remote control you may have lying around the house. E.g. OSSC remote, TV remote etc.

Perfect for your situation where the S16 PCB is tucked away inside a cab and not easily accessible.
Hello franck can you add on my order one wired remote board interconnected via a USB-C to USB-C cable please?
Not a problem at all, you've already ordered and paid for it all. :)
 
I've now officially implemented a function to program any IR remote to your S16 selector!

102876040_10220681423558526_4461269865705057103_n.jpg

I had fun testing every IR remote I could find within my house, from various devices such as TVs, Blu-ray players, hi-fi systems etc.

103351333_10220681425678579_6947967806936410797_n.jpg

Squeezing the code in was tight so for now I've had to remove a few non critical functions to make room for the IR code, such as brightness toggle etc. I'll see if I can make some further optimisation to the code and squeeze them back in.
 
I have a buddy with a printer, when my board is in my hands I'll see if I can convince him to at least model a case and toss it on Thingiverse, I'm not sure he would be interested in selling them
 
I wasn't planning on it. unfortunately I already ordered a selector WITHOUT the remote board.
That's too bad, I love your work.. :)
I have a buddy with a printer, when my board is in my hands I'll see if I can convince him to at least model a case and toss it on Thingiverse, I'm not sure he would be interested in selling them
That'd be cool :)
 
I wasn't planning on it. unfortunately I already ordered a selector WITHOUT the remote board.
I'd gladly send you a remote board free of charge in exchange for a 3D design.

In the meantime I'll post the dimensions here soon so you have a starting point.

I'm envisioning a version with just a base (bottom) plate, to simply provide stability. Of course go nuts with a full enclosure too if you fancy, I just don't mind the look of a naked PCB. :)
 
Regarding the OLED screens... I'm still awaiting delivery of them.

The last lot of 10 I ordered as a test of the supplier didn't fare well. 2 were missing from the order and 2 were faulty. So I only netted 6 screens from a paid order of 10.

The next 10 I ordered from a different supplier I never received. Seller never shipped them and provided a fake tracking number. Thankfully AliExpress refunded.

With the assistance of @xodaraP I believe I've found a stable and reliable supply. I have 40 coming next week according to tracking information. I also have another 60 on their way between 3 separate suppliers so hopefully they land soon also.

Apologies for the delays. I know it sucks to put money down and wait for goodies to arrive, but the money you paid helps me secure parts and I promise your orders will ship as soon as humanly possible.
 
I'd gladly send you a remote board free of charge in exchange for a 3D design.

In the meantime I'll post the dimensions here soon so you have a starting point.
I'll take you up on that.


10.00mm radius on the corner edges

The 4 x mounting holes are offset 7.00mm from each edge
What's the depth of everything? like how high off of the PCB does the OLED and buttons sit, and how much clearance is needed on the back side for through-hole pins?
 
I'd say minimum 5mm clearance on the underside to clear through hole legs poking through.

The buttons and USB connector need at least 5mm as well. The OLED screen needs 7mm.
 
Excellent job! If you made a board like this for the Sega ST-V, I'd buy it Day 1.
 
I looked into ST-V, I can't see it happening. So many wires and connections needed it ends up being very messy.
 
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