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Most JAMMA arcade PCBs (CPS3 included) output RGBS video so you need a CRT capable of accepting an RGB video input.
In Europe that's pretty much any "run of the mill" CRT because they used "SCART" inputs there which supports RGB video.
Here in the USA most CRT TVs didn't support any form of RGB, which is why people go after PVMs and BVMs, because they do support it. "Run of the Mill" Arcade CRTs nearly universally support RGB though.
It has nothing to do with FPS. and there is really no technical reason CRT TVs in the USA shouldn't support it other than the manufacturers didn't bother it add it as an input option. As a result there are ways to modify "run of the mill" CRTs TVs to accept RGB input but it's not easy, particularly not for a "simple" person.
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If you're looking for a "simple" way to play a CPS3 on a CRT then I would recommend looking picking up Sony Trinitron CRT with "Component" Video input and then using a SCART to component Transcoder: https://www.retrorgb.com/new-scart-to-component-transcoder-teased-by-mike-chi.html
that is assuming you have the rest of the connections for power and controls figured out with some kind of supergun.
In Europe that's pretty much any "run of the mill" CRT because they used "SCART" inputs there which supports RGB video.
Here in the USA most CRT TVs didn't support any form of RGB, which is why people go after PVMs and BVMs, because they do support it. "Run of the Mill" Arcade CRTs nearly universally support RGB though.
It has nothing to do with FPS. and there is really no technical reason CRT TVs in the USA shouldn't support it other than the manufacturers didn't bother it add it as an input option. As a result there are ways to modify "run of the mill" CRTs TVs to accept RGB input but it's not easy, particularly not for a "simple" person.
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If you're looking for a "simple" way to play a CPS3 on a CRT then I would recommend looking picking up Sony Trinitron CRT with "Component" Video input and then using a SCART to component Transcoder: https://www.retrorgb.com/new-scart-to-component-transcoder-teased-by-mike-chi.html
that is assuming you have the rest of the connections for power and controls figured out with some kind of supergun.
thank you for the response.
me and some friends are getting a darksoft modded cps-3 board with cabinet (big blue style) complete with monitor. we were thinking of making a supergun but we are a bit short on funds so we're looking for the cheapest way to be able to use our own sticks on the cps-3. could we use undamed converters on the board and just keep the cab intact and use its monitor?
if theres any low cost way of using the board and maybe monitor too without having to lug the cabinet around id like to hear ideas.
me and some friends are getting a darksoft modded cps-3 board with cabinet (big blue style) complete with monitor. we were thinking of making a supergun but we are a bit short on funds so we're looking for the cheapest way to be able to use our own sticks on the cps-3. could we use undamed converters on the board and just keep the cab intact and use its monitor?
if theres any low cost way of using the board and maybe monitor too without having to lug the cabinet around id like to hear ideas.
If you have a cabinet, wire it with a JAMMA harness and be done. That’s cheap. The cab might be wired like that anyway.
If you want to use your own sticks, your solution will depend on your stick and it’s internal circuitry. But the answer will not be cheap, and will involve a supergun, maybe a separate monitor that accepts rgb or various scalers and cables, and probably undamned controller adapters. A supergun isn’t magic and you’d really never use one inside a crt cabinet, it just allows you to route controls, power, and a/v signal from the board’s jamma edge (instead of using a jamma harness).
If you want to use your own sticks, your solution will depend on your stick and it’s internal circuitry. But the answer will not be cheap, and will involve a supergun, maybe a separate monitor that accepts rgb or various scalers and cables, and probably undamned controller adapters. A supergun isn’t magic and you’d really never use one inside a crt cabinet, it just allows you to route controls, power, and a/v signal from the board’s jamma edge (instead of using a jamma harness).
assuming it's in good original condition you could probably sell a big blue for more than enough to buy a supergun setup.
You could wire in a the breakout version to a pb jamma breakout board to send the signals in that way.
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/home...491_undamned-usb-decoder-plus-by-ud-game-tech
https://focusattack.com/pb-jamma-project-adapter-board/
I think the 20x2 header would be the way to go, pretty simple.
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/home...491_undamned-usb-decoder-plus-by-ud-game-tech
https://focusattack.com/pb-jamma-project-adapter-board/
I think the 20x2 header would be the way to go, pretty simple.
@ekorz @twistedsymphony thank you guys for the advice. it has been much help
Second thought, using that breakout might be more confusing for you than something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293063904942
you could wire in the Undamned breakout pcbs to the terminal blocks and otherwise the pcb would just connect to this, then the jamma harness. That assumes your cab is jamma
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293063904942
you could wire in the Undamned breakout pcbs to the terminal blocks and otherwise the pcb would just connect to this, then the jamma harness. That assumes your cab is jamma
to use our sticks straight off the JAMMA could we use something like this (ebay link) and then use undamed converters on the 15 pin connectors? or am i way off?
J
jassin000
All you need for Undamed converters is DB15 connectors wired to the control leads of the JAMMA+Kick harness.
JAMMA Pinout:
CPS2/3 Pinout:
DB15 (Supergun) Pinout:
You could use a simple breakout adapter like this one IF you didn't want to solder...
What you are showing a picture of above is a complete supergun system... Uh, what direction are you going here?
JAMMA harness that you wire up, or pre-made/purchased SG?
No offence, but for someone just starting out in the arcade world... You are doing it on a very expensive/complex PCB.
Nothing wrong with that per-say, but you might want to learn how to drive a used Honda and not a shinny Porsha (aka a complete 3rd Strike PCB is 700$+).
JAMMA Pinout:
You could use a simple breakout adapter like this one IF you didn't want to solder...
JAMMA harness that you wire up, or pre-made/purchased SG?
No offence, but for someone just starting out in the arcade world... You are doing it on a very expensive/complex PCB.
Nothing wrong with that per-say, but you might want to learn how to drive a used Honda and not a shinny Porsha (aka a complete 3rd Strike PCB is 700$+).
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Do you have access to a to-be-junked arcade cabinet?
If you do, pull the JAMMA harness, PSU, ISO transformer, and speakers from it. Screw the PSU to a 10"x8"x0.75" block of wood (assuming it is the paperback book form-factor type). Do the same to the ISO transformer. Keep all the wiring intact if you don't know were everything goes. Sort of bundle them together so they aren't a complete rats nest. Hack up an AC power cord and wire it into the PSU.
Pull the just the monitor for the Big Blue. Connect it to the wiring you pulled. Plug in the CPS3. Plug the AC cord into the wall. Everything should now power on. Now you just need to wire in controls. The easiest way to do that is undamned USB Decoder.
As long as you have access to the wiring of a junk cab, should be the cheapest way to achieve what you want. Please don't remove the wiring from the Big Blue however. It is total -EV, akin putting a $500 bill into a paper shredder.
oh im totally aware of this. but we got a deal we couldn't pass up and since were a community of 3rd strike players. it makes sense to get the board that plays 3rd strike. i know a lot more know than i did before i started this thread.
