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Yeah and this is the rare B version that’s not been uploaded . When I have time this upcoming weeks I will put it out there :thumbsup:
 
not to burst the bubble. but the schmatic was the same as tekken 6 missing a bunch of connector info. the manual still references the old tekken 6 card readers.

*** i am making the assumption this is a copy of the sept 2010 version and hoping i am wrong.
 
No bubble here, don’t care what’s in it that much as I never look in it 8o :D . Just upload it to preserve things for the future.. maybe it is the new one we ll find out when it’s uploaded :thumbsup:
 
I’ve seen another thread about led’s on the move strip, I’m working on that at the moment but there’s also mention of the bana passport, mines plugged in but where on the board does it plug in? Does anyone know.
 
picture 1385 the one connector on the left is for es1 and es3 plugs into serial 3 card IF

picture 1386 3 plugs on the right. 1 is 5v ignore the other is a jvs power ignore. the one in the middle plugs into system 357 or 369 the plug slot to the right of the jvs usb plug.


any feedback on the led light strips would be great.
 

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No bubble here, don’t care what’s in it that much as I never look in it 8o :D . Just upload it to preserve things for the future.. maybe it is the new one we ll find out when it’s uploaded :thumbsup:
BTW thanks for uploading that. hoping there is new info. even if there isnt thanks for taking the time to upload it. soft copy references are great.
 
Cheers rocket, looks like I’ve got the black cable but missing the extra cable on the end to plug it into my es3.

I've had a couple of hours on the led’s, gave them a good clean and got most working, but not for long and they went again, what I’ve found is if I push down on a certain led it’ll light some others up so I’m presuming dry joints, I’m rubbish at soldering but I’m going to have a go tomorrow as I can’t make it any worse lol.
 
been there done that. i tried after using the unpower method your talking about which did get good results.

only advise dont solder with them powered. i thought if i soldered with powered would be easier. problem is inrush spike current takes out the leds perminately.
 
Apart from the monitor is there any downsides to a version 1 over a version 2? I know you get led top light but I prefer the strip light and a version 1 has 3.3v power which version 2 doesn’t , apart from that I don’t see what’s different.
 
monitor is the main thing. the funny part is if the sanwa 1360x768 went bad in the version 1 it was replaced with a wei-ya 1920x1080 monitor. i have a cab where this was done.
 
Well there is a diff in led topper in the V2/3 series as you have a strip that lights the marquee and flashes , and you have a version that has led to light the topper that always on and a strip then that cab flash the blue or red topper. As I have a few V2/3 noir they changed

look at the brightest setting as the one on the left also has the extra original led . This also has a brand new type of bracket (original) that holds the led on the front as wel.

I will try to make some pictures of the wiring and led/bracket then you can see that it’s factory changed. It’s no handyman work as all is original
9805685A-18D6-4292-9D0B-0E410C6A40D5.jpeg
 
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Flashing comes from having a namco unit attached to the machine and having no network connection for the banapass and other issues similar. If you dont like it just disconnect pin 15 on j32 of the i/o board and the led bar will stay on.
 
@rocket you don’t get my point . There are 2 diff types of led units on the noir

1 (old type that flashes the marquee and red/blue panel as one thing )

2 (newer type that keeps the marquee lid while the red/blue panel flashes)

also if you connect other boards on the jvs/io namco uses like race games re1/re2 Sega board and it will flash also as it does on the originals dedicated racers...
 
oh like there is 2 seperate sets of led in the top section one for the marquee and one for the front light. ya i was not understanding at all. thanks. pictures would be great. also i like your noirs they are really nice. what is the manufacturing date on them (found on the inside of the coin door)
 
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Yes correct 2 separate led rows on the newest version. Both with seperate wiring for always on and on/flash

Will make some pics later and I’ll check the date :)
 
does your noir have a connector attached to pin 17,19,21 and 23 of the noir jvs board at connector j32
 
There nice, I was offered a blue but went for the red, probably not the best choice but I do like it, how do you tell a version 2 from a version 3 as I’m going to get another one when one comes up.

Your tekken 7 are the options in Japan or English? I watched a video yesterday and they were in English, It was the same cabinet as mine but I can’t find any option to change it.
 
I think you have to plug the HDD in your computer and change some settings in the cfg/ini files to set the language . I’ve been told so.
 
There nice, I was offered a blue but went for the red, probably not the best choice but I do like it, how do you tell a version 2 from a version 3 as I’m going to get another one when one comes up.

Your tekken 7 are the options in Japan or English? I watched a video yesterday and they were in English, It was the same cabinet as mine but I can’t find any option to change it.
I think it was like this if I remember correct .

red version type 1 720p screen

Ruby red(shiny) blue (early gundam) -2009 type 2 1080p screen

blue(gundam) white(crazy game) gold(tekken 7) type 3 with new dual led topper and 1080p screen)2010+
 
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