Super Neo 29 type 2 restore

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    • Super Neo 29 type 2 restore

      Recently purchased a Super Neo 29 type 2 off a good friend and will use this thread to document the work on restoring it.

      To start I need to break into this thing as I didn't get any keys with it. Luckily there are no locks on the main PCB door, the coin door or the coin box. There is one lock that is locked on the right side of the control panel and one lock on the rear access panel.

      Since drilling locks is kinda a pain, I wanted to avoid it at all costs. I was able to sacrifice one button on the control panel to allow access to the lock and tang on the right side of the CP. Using a screw driver, I slowly and carefully backed the nut off the back side enough to allow the CP to clear the tang. (The only large flat-head screwdriver I had was the one I use for discharging, hence the attached wire)

      Success, we are in the CP and have drilled 0 locks, but destroyed one button. I was planning on replacing the controls on this CP as they all feel like warm mush, so no big loss.

      These locks do not appear to be the normal barrel locks, as I would have attempted to pick them using a pick gun or had a locksmith make a replacement key. None of the dozen locksmiths I called would be able to make a replacement key and I was told they are hard to pick, so on to plan B - drilling.

      The lock on the rear of the cab presents a challenge. It sits right above the neck of the monitor so any falling debris could potentially break the neck. After looking over my options, I decided to wedge a piece of cardboard up between the cab and the monitor to shield it from any falling tangs and metal shavings.

      With the shield in place, we are ready to drill.
    • Well drilling was substantially easier than I thought it would be. As soon as I drilled thorough the outer crescent moon shaped plate, I was able to pick out all the lock innards with a small screwdriver.

      The tang stayed attached and it was rotated by the drill bit itself and the panel popped right off.

      Next step was to take off the marquee and monitor surround. This cab doesn't have hinges for the monitor surround, instead it is screwed to the cab from the inside, with 3 screws on each side. One side shown below. This is somewhat difficult as the screws are right next to the side of the cab so not much room for knuckles and a screw driver. You can see a magnet taped to the back of the monitor, some factory tuning of geometry or convergence.

      Monitor discharged and anode cap removed. You can see a nice healthy amount of grease. Be sure to leave the grease there, I believe it is to prevent arching.

      Monitor surround and marque removed

      I'm rich!!

      The label had fallen off the tube. Documenting the tube and monitor chassis
    • Monitor Chassis pics. I wrapped the anode cup in some clear shrink wrap since it has all the grease on it and seemed like a dust magnet.

      Monitor removed.

      Control panel removed. It attached to the cab with 4 screws into the front, and 2 into the ledge. The 2 screw holes close together on the right side of the ledge are for the coin chute.
    • hoagtech wrote:

      Thanks for all the giant pics.

      Keep them coming.

      Those neo 29's are dope.

      Weren't you the guy with the NNC as well?
      Yep that was me, I went big with cabs this week: NNC from kcgames, Egret3/AWSD, and this Super Neo 29 type 2. I rented a truck with a lift-gate and was determined to get my moneys worth! Thanks for all the positive feedback guys, I'll keep the pics and the restore going strong. Need to dive into that NNC but it just need a cleaning, so not too much disassembly there.
    • Time to finish removing the JAMMA loom from this cab. Overall the loom is in good shape, with a few minor issues.

      1. The video ground has broken off at the JAMMA connector pin. There was a "fix" done using an IDC splice crimp that tied the video ground to the power supply ground at JAMMA pin 28. My friend I bought the cab off of (Thanks Again BTW :D ) mentioned the video was a bit shaky, and I think this "fix" may have been the issue/part of the issue. My friend was not the one who implemented the 'fix' it was purchased that way from auction.
      2. JAMMA pin 26 "Select Up" was removed from the connector. The pin appears to be a bit smashed, so maybe that is why it was removed. In its place was a larger gauge green wire (like the type used for the chassis ground) that has a stripped end that didn't connect to anything. The panel that is on this cab only has the single button in the middle, so I am guessing that only a single select button is used. The loom has both select buttons wired, so I would like to return it back to factory configuration, even if only 1 select button is actually used on the control panel.

      I had already removed the IDC crimp splice in this picture, but you can see the video ground wire broken off. Also, you can see the damage to the pin that would go in JAMMA-26 (Select UP)

      Here is the offending green wire that was stuffed into JAMMA-26 and just had a stripped bare end. I included the connector that has the coin switch as it appears the green wire may have been borrowed from that connector.

      JAMMA loom and power supply removed

      Interesting that the top marquee surround is spot welded to the main cab body. That is as much as can be removed by unscrewing brackets. I remember the Neo Candy 29, you could removed the whole marquee box from the cab body.

      Coin box and PCB mounting board rails removed

      Floor pan removed, this is basically as far as I can strip the cab down outside of taking off the 2 wheels on the back.

      I'll leave with a parting shot of the dirty floor pan

      I am thinking of taking the ~$8 worth of quarters I pulled out of the cab and going to one of those manual car wash places and giving the cab and control panel bottom a good hose down. Seems somewhat fitting to use those quarter to clean this bad boy. Apartment life sucks without a backyard and a hose...
    • Decided to just use some spray cleaner and go to town on this cab, its not that dirty, just some dust for the most part. First, I cleaned the inside of the cab so that I could reinstall the bottom plate. The bottom plate seemed to add some rigidity so I didn't want to move it too much without the plate being installed.

      Time to reinstall the bottom. Looking pretty good if I do say so myself.

      Time to pop it on its back so that I can clean the lower bits and the front better. Most of the cleaning was done with a rag and some 'Crud Cutter' but I did test out the magic eraser on some spots.

      Time to clean the back

      Sides aren't too bad either. The art is pretty faded so I plan on getting some reproduction art and replacing it.

      Interesting that both side arts appear to be faded the same amount. Leads me to believe that it isn't sun faded, but maybe just faded from the age and artificial lights.