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Cannon Dancer/Osman Conversion -> The FREE Edition once and for all (JoeMac/Magical Drop pcb)

twistedsymphony said:
that's the wrong pin, you've added a wire to pin 7 (or 7, I can't tell) not pin 5.

pin 1 is on the far left and pin 11 is on the far right

EDIT @AlxUnderBase beat me to it...
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No sir, its a good lesson you provide us , i just want to help in the hope i do it right. Anyway , i still need to learn new things like double the files to fit in 322’s and to be sure ive done right the byteswap for that 93c46
 
TheDeath said:
Yeah, sorry, it was an older picture when i was trying to figure out by my self. this is how its now
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based on what I see there you could have a cold joint on one of the OKI pins or a short somewhere.

a weak solder joint or a very slight short could lead to exactly the problem you're experiencing.

or it's entirely possible one of the OKIs got damaged from being hooked up wrong and now shuts down once it reaches a certain thermal point.
 
twistedsymphony said:
TheDeath said:
Yeah, sorry, it was an older picture when i was trying to figure out by my self. this is how its now
Click to expand...
based on what I see there you could have a cold joint on one of the OKI pins or a short somewhere.

a weak solder joint or a very slight short could lead to exactly the problem you're experiencing.

or it's entirely possible one of the OKIs got damaged from being hooked up wrong and now shuts down once it reaches a certain thermal point.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks. So the wiring is correct.
I might be haha. I'll just change them at this point. When i'm in rush in something i do always make shitty jobs here and there XD
I hope changing them will fix it once and for all.. what a trip
 
Guys, something I'm not understanding (along with why someone would pay 600 EURO for this!), is why not just use Lady Killer and do the easier conversion? Is it because MD is more deadly available or something? I mean, this seems like a lot more work than the conversion on the Mitchell PCB.
 
xtrasmiley said:
Guys, something I'm not understanding (along with why someone would pay 600 EURO for this!), is why not just use Lady Killer and do the easier conversion? Is it because MD is more deadly available or something?
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Lady Killer is Gonta 1 and on different hardware, the Mitchel PCB for this conversion is Gonta 2, aka Party Time 2

I've only ever seen a couple of them come up for sale over the years, meanwhile the Magical Drop /Chain reaction games are extremely common.

I ended up with 3 Magical drops without even trying, Literally people were throwing this board in as part of deals. While it took me months of searching for a Gonta 2 before I found one based on a tip from someone else who knew I was looking.

the Mitchel PCB is the better PCB though, it's got the extra graphics ROM space for any of the games and has a proper jumper to switch the OKI clock signal.

I'm half tempted to convert my Osman to Magical Drop just because I can do it without having to splice any wires anywhere :P
 
@xtrasmiley only way to play the Cannon Dancer / Osman is to grab a Magical Drop or a similar hardware who still are available... Gonta 2 is impossible to find.
 
Ah, got it, I got a Gonta 2, but because I wanted to play it! I didn't realize it's very hard to get. It think I paid $60 for it. It almost makes up for that stupid Charlie Ninja I paid $300 for and like the next months I saw one for $90...

Oh well, you win some, you lose some!

I think we should just do a multi-mitchel, then everyone is happy!
 
Changed 2 okis, twice. It didn't change a damn thing.
I don't know at this point. If i turn on the game without the sound eeproms, no problem. If i put them back the game locks up.
I aven noticed that some of the 27c160 data out are just dead, no high or low, just nothing, i don't if because the output is disabled or god knows what, unfortunatly i'm out of parts to try again with another one.
Funny thinking that i dropped the bomb and i'm the first who will not have it haha
I'll try another day, i'm coocked being up to this the whole day

EDIT: changing the 14W amplifier MB3734 did the job :) Got the conversion too!
 
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twistedsymphony said:
AlxUnderBase said:
Things gonna be nasty with the donor boars guys ... Check this out, maybe is for your need !
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that looks like it's already been converted from Magical Drop.
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if you put the sold listings i think majority have that conversion sir ... but i don't mind now (i was able to pay for Joe & Mac Returns original board - 140Euro - shipped) and i have the Magical Drop in Japan witch i win on an auction for 67Euro . If i put a balance ... i get a good price to have Charlie & Osman in my collection too. I know ,they went more cheaper and can be found cheaper in Japan at least. @twistedsymphony , sir , is the 93c46 from ST otp or can be writed & erased more times ?
 
twistedsymphony said:
Wire mod to expand GFX2 ROM space:[/b]

Cut the traces to Pin 32 on the EEPROM sockets at 13A and 14A, wire these together then Wire them to Pin 9 of the 74LS373 at 11A
Run another wire from Pin 8 of the 72LS373 at 11A to Pin 30 of the EEPROM at 13A
new GFX2 ROMs can be burned to 27c322s like this:
mcf-04.14h + mcf-03.14d = 14A
mcf-02.14a + mcf-01.13a = 13A

Wire mod to fix Music speed:
Cut the trace going to pin 5 of OKI audio chip at J13 (the one closer to the center of the PCB), this needs to be cut between the pin and the first via. Run a wire from this pin to Pin 5 of the other OKI chip at J14, alternatively you can also run this wire to Pin 9 of the 74LS74 at H10 as this also runs to Pin 5 of the J14 OKI.
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Working on this today. Wanted to make a correction and ask a question as well.

There is no IC at H10. The 74LS74 to use for the music speed fix is at H9.

Regarding the trace to cut at A13 and A14: should this be the little U shaped one on the underside between pins 31 and 32?
 
rewrite said:
There is no IC at H10. The 74LS74 to use for the music speed fix is at H9.
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you're probably right but it seems half way between 9 and 10 and since there's no IC directly in line with 10 I figured that was the safer label to id the chip.

rewrite said:
Regarding the trace to cut at A13 and A14: should this be the little U shaped one on the underside between pins 31 and 32?
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the U shaped traces is between pins 11 and 12, not 31 and 32
 
twistedsymphony said:
the U shaped traces is between pins 11 and 12, not 31 and 32
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This is what happens when you flip the PCB around and don't account for it. :D

Little guy to the via then. Got it.

That other one's definitely 9 though. Take a second look. There's an unpopulated spot for a 10H right below it.
 

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Technically it's just six people that have bid over 31k, and from those only three have bid over 101k. So as always, it's just a super small minority that screws up the market for everyone involved.
 
nem said:
Technically it's just six people that have bid over 31k, and from those only three have bid over 101k. So as always, it's just a super small minority that screws up the market for everyone involved.
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And perhaps two of those were seller alt accounts. so all it takes is one sucker.
 
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