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Report2Marty

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Greetings!!

Got my first candy cab!!! But it’s having some problems.. Powers on with the step down but monitor flashes once, then you just hear a clicking noise like the monitor is trying to fire up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Is there a game PCB in the cab? Does it play blind? (Do you get audio?)

if so I suspect the monitor chassis has issues, don’t want to ruin your day, but the stock Wei-Ya in these cabs is just junk... :(

did you buy the cab as confirmed working?
 
Look at the back of monitor, make sure the neck board is connected.
than look at the board and see if there's any burned caps or diodes, then look at the flyback see if it has any goop.

also look at the neck of the monitor and make sure there are no cracks where the pins come out.
 
Sounds like HV Shutdown.

If all the physical connections check out, check your B+ reading and make sure it's where it should be.
 
Nice! Thank you everyone! I'll get on that!

Bought the cab knowing it would freeze or shut down. For the price I got it compared to the price I would pay to have one shipped and with no monitor, I'm willing to put some work into it. Also, just did a monitor swap on my recently purchased big red, but got a little intimidated by the wiring in this one, lol.

I'll do some digging to see where the b+ is located, unless someone here knows and can tell me!

@rewrite sounds like the HV too. In all honesty, I'm also a little confused by the outlet that has the monitor plugged into one socket while the other socket says 100V. I assumed I just plug the grey cord coming from the power supply to my external 100V step down.

@kingau I've seen stuff about the black goo while glancing over certain threads, but didn't dedicate much time to it.

@PascalP no ruining my day! I can take it all apart and replace caps, HOT, or whatever is needed. Is there an alternative chassis that would be better to invest in? I haven't looked into that yet.
 
I'm also a little confused by the outlet that has the monitor plugged into one socket while the other socket says 100V. I assumed I just plug the grey cord coming from the power supply to my external 100V step down.
A picture of what you're talking about may help here.
 
Turn the screen pot on the back of the fly back transformer all the way in one direction and test. Turn it the other direction and test. I thought my astro was toast and this brought it back

Discharge the anode cap and reattach. It could be your anode is not connected properly.
 
@rewrite here's a pic of what I'm talking about!
CCOutlet.jpg


@hoagtech I'll give that a shot. The gentleman I purchased it from said that it was working perfect at a convention, but as soon as he brought it back it kept cutting off.
 
If you're using a step-down outside the cab (which you REALLY should be with an AWSD), then it won't matter as everything in the cab should be 100v anyway.
 
Cool! Yeah, I'm using a step-down! Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something! :D
 
Ok, discharged, removed anode cap and neck board. Inspected for goop, cracks, missing pins. All checked out good. Put in pcb that boots up with sound, sound working. It’s weird, I did notice a little buzz when I powered the cab down with the switch under the machine.

I’ll pull the chassis out tomorrow and take a closer look at that.

Thanks for all your help so far! I greatly appreciate it!
 
Here are some pics of the chassis. I noticed some corrosion on R113 and J58. Also, looks like cold solder joints on the vertical IC. Am I able to test the HOT in circuit, or do I have to remove it?

Thanks for all your help!!
 

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Wei Ya chassis is notorious for bad soldering/ cold solder joints.
So if you have it on the bench, make sure to run over every solder and reflow where needed
 
Ok, so did some reflowing, took out the HOT to test then put it back. Hooked everything back up, and now I don’t even have power to the monitor and no clicking noise, just dead.

Ugh....
 
Well, don’t know if anyone will see this, but I tried a little something and damn if it didn’t work, lol.

My in-laws had a 27” Panasonic flat screen crt sitting out on their back patio collecting dust for years. My brother-in-law cleaned up the patio and plugged the tv in and it worked!

Went back to measure and check the model number and discovered it would fit inside my AWSD! Brought it back to the garage, opened it up and checked impedance and inductance and saw that it was in range for the 29” universal chassis.

Plugged it all up and voila!!!
 

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That’s awesome! Do you mind sharing the model number of the TV you used?
I want to venture a guess that fitment-wise it doesn't matter since they're all flat-screen. But I suppose you'd need to know for chassis/tube compatibility!

I'm interested in the "universal chassis" comment myself.
 
Well, don’t know if anyone will see this, but I tried a little something and damn if it didn’t work, lol.

My in-laws had a 27” Panasonic flat screen crt sitting out on their back patio collecting dust for years. My brother-in-law cleaned up the patio and plugged the tv in and it worked!

Went back to measure and check the model number and discovered it would fit inside my AWSD! Brought it back to the garage, opened it up and checked impedance and inductance and saw that it was in range for the 29” universal chassis.

Plugged it all up and voila!!!
Congrats!!!
 
Well, don’t know if anyone will see this, but I tried a little something and damn if it didn’t work, lol.

My in-laws had a 27” Panasonic flat screen crt sitting out on their back patio collecting dust for years. My brother-in-law cleaned up the patio and plugged the tv in and it worked!

Went back to measure and check the model number and discovered it would fit inside my AWSD! Brought it back to the garage, opened it up and checked impedance and inductance and saw that it was in range for the 29” universal chassis.

Plugged it all up and voila!!!
Are you referring to the Wei ya universal chassis that came with your cab or one of those china ones on eBay?

Did you have to wire any resistors in-line or it “just worked?”

Very nice tube swap
 
@muckyfingers The set tube is a M68LZP195X from a Panasonic CT-27SL14J

@rewrite fit perfect, though I do have to say that this tube is slightly heavier than the original Samsung tube!

@kingau THANK YOU!!!

@hoagtech Yes, it is in fact the universal chassis from ebay. My thinking was that I only really play games that are in 15khz so a CGA only chassis would work for me. I got great results with a recent tube swap for my big red using the same chassis. Also, no resistors in-line needed. The ohm's and mh's were within the range of the chassis.

Going to send my M3129D out to Las Vegas to get overhauled and have another chassis and tube in storage for back up...buuut I really want to put that tube in this slightly destroyed cabinet for my vertical shooters. Ugh, IDK....
 
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