lolThe B board with the "XMNU" is most likely Xmen: Children of the Atom. A fighting game
They are bare PCB's, no shells. I have two separate B boards and one A board. I also have one 93661G-2 daughter board. Looks like the B boards are different revisions. I checked voltage on the batteries and one reads 3.3 volts and the other reads 3.4 volts. Im not planning on playing them, but I would like to build a test rig because that just sounds like fun.sounds like he gave you some CPS2 boards. Are they bare PCBs, or did they happen to come in a some shells? A-boards are relatively useless without a companion "B" board, that contains the actual game. Think of the A boards you have as a games console and the companion B boards as the cartridges.
System 16 CPS2 page
If you're trying to actually play them, you're gonna have a good little chunk of parts/equipment that you'll still have to buy. Be it a supergun, proper hardware to run the game on a modern monitor, an older more technical monitor instead, and some method of controlling the game.
They're JAMMA standard games, so I would start your search on properly wiring JAMMA games. Since it sounds like you're experienced in do-it-yourself electronics work, I would check out the MiniGun Supergun, an open source "all in one" method of running most JAMMA games at home. You'll still need some other equipment to run controls, and also some equipment depending on what monitor you intend to use, but I cant recommend that supergun enough if you're good with your hands/soldering and you have some knowledge on the JAMMA standard.
Welcome to the arcade hobby I suppose- be it by choice or not! lol...also if you choose to not hang on to those boards, maybe let me know
Edit: Your new post popped up right after I hit submit...oh well, still leaving this up for the links
Welcome.
So since you have no way to test at the moment, I'll just give you the information you would need to "future proof" these boards regardless. Lot's of collectors will keep their games on the original battery until it dies just for originalities sake, however, we now have the Infinikey, which is a small pcb that will allow you to continue using your boards without the battery. If you would like to keep this board original/as an Xmen for the long-run, this is probably the most cost-effective solution. There's also the Darksoft Kit, which will let you run the entire library of CPS2 titles on your single A-board. However, the installation process is much more involved, and is exponentially more expensive (with good reason!) compared to just getting an infinikey.
Also, if you don't intend on making any kind of involved setup (or even an entire supergun) and just want some absolute basics to test these out, here's a good example of a "absolute bare minimum" shopping cart:
Yes they have eproms. I noticed one of the B boards is short two of the program eproms. Is this normal or did someone remove them ?
not all eprom sockets will be filled, it depends on the game, some games are smaller and don't use up all of the available data space.
yes the A-boards have a fan build into the case, and yes spre shells are impossible to find. I'd suspect there are fewer good shells than there are good PCBs.
Honestly the amount you'll spend building a test rig is probably half the price of the working boards. and more than value if they DONT work.
200 dollars ? Thats more than I thought they were worth. Im not really concerned about the money, and Ill probably wind up just giving them away, but It would be nice to know that they're going to someone who will use them, play them.not all eprom sockets will be filled, it depends on the game, some games are smaller and don't use up all of the available data space.
yes the A-boards have a fan build into the case, and yes spre shells are impossible to find. I'd suspect there are fewer good shells than there are good PCBs.
Honestly the amount you'll spend building a test rig is probably half the price of the working boards. and more than value if they DONT work.
The games you've got there are not super valuable. based on completed eBay auction a complete working A+B board set for either game WITH the case in good condition is about $200 shipped. after shipping and fees you're probably looking at about $150 in your pocket and I'd guess the value is about half that for bare boards without a case.
that's if they work...
Your cheapest option is to find someone local to you who has a JAMMA cab, at that point you'll be plugging them in and seeing if they work, it takes all of 2-minutes and $0. I bet there is one or two people within an hours drive of you. arcade collectors are all over the place, seriously
For reference @SixSixty, I just recently worked out a deal to pay a hair over 230 for a tested and working A+B set, with shells, of marvel vs street fighter. However, that set is coming from a known member of the community who has had successful transactions before (which goes a heck of a long way when shipping these fragile parts), and who also just replaced the shell on the B board of this set to improve the condition. That alone is difficult enough to track down.
and the couple minutes of testing would more than reflect in the sold price so long as you have pictures of it running. Most arcade folks typically take "untested" as "its broken" without a second glance in terms of auctions. Otherwise, im still willing to work out a something privately for that SZ2 set whenever you find that youre finished working with them. Lots of us typically do direct paypal transactions instead of ebay to avoid fees and such- though that does come with a layer of trust, providing tracking numbers etc.
I'm sure there is someone out there who would be happy to have a working board set case or no.
I noticed there are several CGA / EGA / YUV / RGB To VGA Video Converters available online, and some are cheaper than others. For testing purposes wouldn't the one in the link below work fine ? I can use some momentary contact switches I have stored away for the controls and coin inputs, and Ill either use my bench DC power supply or Ill build a small DC power supply for the 12v and 5v. As for audio, do JAMMA boards have onboard amplification or do I need to run the mono output through an amplifier ?For reference @SixSixty, I just recently worked out a deal to pay a hair over 230 for a tested and working A+B set, with shells, of marvel vs street fighter. However, that set is coming from a known member of the community who has had successful transactions before (which goes a heck of a long way when shipping these fragile parts), and who also just replaced the shell on the B board of this set to improve the condition. That alone is difficult enough to track down.
I definitely reccomend @twistedsymphonys advice- maybe look around and find someone with an already assembled jamma setup to test with if you really plan on listing through ebay. Most arcade people would be more than willing to help out
the Gonbes GBS-8200 should work well enough for testing purposes, they can be a pain to get running but it's the cheapest way to convert RGBS to something that a TV or PC monitor can use. there's a newer version (I forget the model number) that does HDMI as well. For arcade collectors these are generally considered garbage quality, but there's nothing wrong with using them for testing.
These boards were stored away in some guys hot garage for years, and I live on the Gulf Coast. I ruined an old CRT 50 Mhz Oscilloscope by leaving it my garage over one summer so I dont know how these boards or batteries survived. From what I've read setting up a test rig is fairly simple and Ill stop back in and post updates. Im not overly optimistic but who knows, they may be fine and if that means they could be put to good use the great
Also, if you don't get any audio output right away, or are maybe only getting one channel, you should try holding down one of the volume buttons while powering on the system. Usually ensures the system switches from edge audio to RCA audio completely. It's usually recommended that you still run these through an outside amp to get better/louder audio quality anyways, though.
If it's any reconciliation, these boards were meant to be stuffed in confined and cramped arcade cabs- usually in not-so-well-ventilated rooms stuffed with tens of hundreds of people at a time
Some of these old boards were definitely built like hot garbage, but, they can sometimes take more of a beating than you would expect 
