I don't know about stock, but he's just made me a few panels and overlays identical to the originals, so he can definitely make them.You mean Alberto will have some panels in stock soon?Here's one I just had made from Alberto. Haven't got it yet, but here's a side by side with the original.
I'm pretty sure he used the readily available artset that's out there and it's not entirely accurate with the half tone shading on the second from bottom line, but it's pretty damned good!
I can tell just by looking at it it's going to be a complete **** to get on straight! Good thing I got some control panels made up as well and he will be putting those on!
- Thread starter Cookie
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No I don't have them yet, they are being posted this week to Australia. Those are just the pictures of the exact overlays that he's sending to me. I'm also getting panels, a 1 player panel and a 2 player panel.
The colours difference is in the horizontal rows of squares. Look at the bottom row, it's basically white on both the original and the reprints. Then look at the second row from the bottom. On the original (right) it's basically white, on the reprint (left), it's got more red in it. As you go up the next few rows the shades are slightly different due to more of the halftone dots. That's what I was talking about.
The colours difference is in the horizontal rows of squares. Look at the bottom row, it's basically white on both the original and the reprints. Then look at the second row from the bottom. On the original (right) it's basically white, on the reprint (left), it's got more red in it. As you go up the next few rows the shades are slightly different due to more of the halftone dots. That's what I was talking about.
Negative, that's a non original panel with a reprinted overlay.
This is the original. The pink circled one.
think i will also have to ask @alberto1225 for some panel prices.
there was also a guy from brasil making panels right now? anyone bought from him as well?
there was also a guy from brasil making panels right now? anyone bought from him as well?
also got a few panels from @alberto1225 over the years, can highly recommend him 
Battlesmurf
Grand Master
Does anybody need a replacement emblem/marquee bit? (The black and red part that says Namco on it?) for the Blue Exceleena?
Battlesmurf
Grand Master
It'll be soon. Not me- but I just sent measurements and scans to a dude that I know will do it justice and will update this shortly to help folks out.
Thank you to everyone that contributed to this thread - I've learned a lot, especially about safety around fibreglass 
I've just bought this magnificent beauty in New Zealand and will be giving it a minor restore over the next few months.
In very good cosmetic condition all round, not a mark anywhere on the fibreglass which is a miracle, and the beer holders function perfectly
The doors at the bottom have been "gently modified to suit local conditons"
Local conditions are grubby kiwis stealing anything that isnt nailed down
Gently modified is bolting a 3mm steel plate across the whole front. Clearly a simple lock bar would not do. This is hummvee surplus armor plating baby! They have also removed the origional coin entry, coin chute and coin door in favor of the previously mentioned armor plating with a slot milled into it.
The sound is a little scratchy and the monitor has some "snow" in the blacks which strongly suggests bad power, so I'll probably start with the power supply and chip away from there.
I've just bought this magnificent beauty in New Zealand and will be giving it a minor restore over the next few months.
In very good cosmetic condition all round, not a mark anywhere on the fibreglass which is a miracle, and the beer holders function perfectly
The doors at the bottom have been "gently modified to suit local conditons"
Local conditions are grubby kiwis stealing anything that isnt nailed down
Gently modified is bolting a 3mm steel plate across the whole front. Clearly a simple lock bar would not do. This is hummvee surplus armor plating baby! They have also removed the origional coin entry, coin chute and coin door in favor of the previously mentioned armor plating with a slot milled into it.
The sound is a little scratchy and the monitor has some "snow" in the blacks which strongly suggests bad power, so I'll probably start with the power supply and chip away from there.
Attachments
Your cab looks to be in really nice condition! My blue Exeleena has the regular BAR across all the doors brackets... yours is awesome! That mod to the doors could have been a lot worse, at least it's kinda clean.
Makes me wish i could find another project cab that needs some TLC to restore! I've been looking for another one of these locally but haven't seen any come up for sale for a while now.
Post some pics as you go! Always interesting to see more of these cabs.
Makes me wish i could find another project cab that needs some TLC to restore! I've been looking for another one of these locally but haven't seen any come up for sale for a while now.
Post some pics as you go! Always interesting to see more of these cabs.
Power supply is very beautiful, looks like the date of manufacture is Oct 1994.
Looks like the villan in the crackly sound and snowy picture story is C23 which is bulging visibly. C13 is also leaking from the bottom. But being 27 years old they are all getting swapped out anyway.
And some of the resistors are beaten to hell R6, R7 and R8 and R18 and R19 are all looking pretty burnt up - no damage to the bottom of the board
I'm debating if I should replace the resistors while I'm in there doign the caps. Unfortunately the markings are burned off some of them. 6 7 and 8 are particuarly hard to read. Does anyone know what the values of these should be?
Looks like the villan in the crackly sound and snowy picture story is C23 which is bulging visibly. C13 is also leaking from the bottom. But being 27 years old they are all getting swapped out anyway.
And some of the resistors are beaten to hell R6, R7 and R8 and R18 and R19 are all looking pretty burnt up - no damage to the bottom of the board
I'm debating if I should replace the resistors while I'm in there doign the caps. Unfortunately the markings are burned off some of them. 6 7 and 8 are particuarly hard to read. Does anyone know what the values of these should be?
This is the Digikey BOM for the Namco Exceleena power supply electrolytic caps that I ordered
It would probably be sensible to use better caps for not much more money, or basically equivilent caps for a lot less money. But this is a restoration so I selected as close as possible to the factory parts
Nichicon PR series has been replaced with PS series - all 105 degree and all 2000/3000 hour
Nichicon GQ series has been replaced with GU/GN series - all 105 degree and all 3000 hour
Please note that one of the caps isnt labeled, it's hot glued onto the side of the board - all of the exceleena power supplies that I have seen or seen pictures of have this extra cap. It's on the list as C??
I couldnt make out the markings on the resistors clearly enough to order them with any confidence. So I'll test them to confirm correct values while I'm replacing the caps and order those seperately
It would probably be sensible to use better caps for not much more money, or basically equivilent caps for a lot less money. But this is a restoration so I selected as close as possible to the factory parts
Nichicon PR series has been replaced with PS series - all 105 degree and all 2000/3000 hour
Nichicon GQ series has been replaced with GU/GN series - all 105 degree and all 3000 hour
Please note that one of the caps isnt labeled, it's hot glued onto the side of the board - all of the exceleena power supplies that I have seen or seen pictures of have this extra cap. It's on the list as C??
I couldnt make out the markings on the resistors clearly enough to order them with any confidence. So I'll test them to confirm correct values while I'm replacing the caps and order those seperately
