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Danexmurder

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Well, after two months of waiting my copy of raider fighters jet to arrive from China it showed up in a crushed box.

the board didn’t look terrible but unfortunately it doesn’t work. All I get when I try to turn it on is a brief flash on the screen.

I’m pretty new to the hobby and could use a hand figuring out where to start looking.

I can solder to fix things but I don’t know what to look for. Didn’t see any obvious breaks.

I’m using a HAS super gun and provided exactly 5 volts.

Best I get is a brief video/audio pop. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

-Dane
 

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Was it from the seller w45050? Not that it matters- have been waiting quite sometime for one too. On these type boards with alot of surface mounted stuff, look for any pins that have become detached. You could also have it powered on and push down lightly on each of the surface mounted chips and look for any difference onscreen.
 
Was it from the seller w45050? Not that it matters- have been waiting quite sometime for one too. On these type boards with alot of surface mounted stuff, look for any pins that have become detached. You could also have it powered on and push down lightly on each of the surface mounted chips and look for any difference onscreen.
Yep, that’s exactly who it was from. Hope yours arrives in better condition than mine.
 
I got a board from him recently and the box was beat to hell. Luckily for me the padding protected the board and things were ok. It was a pretty weak looking box and travelled a long way, not to mention got stuck in COVID shipping purgatory for like 7 weeks. I feel even luckier now.

Hope he will help make things right and there is an easy fix.
 
I tried reseating everything that I could but it didn’t solve anything.
 
I pressed down on the RFJ-09 chip when I powered it up and managed to get something! Got to an opening sequence where it plays a song on loop. Audio plays and sync is off. It will register a coin but not the start button.
 

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Progress. Did you see any movement on the solder joints when you applied the pressure? Did you try to reflow the chip (or socket can’t tell in the pic) and see if you could replicate the results you saw when applying pressure after the reflow?
 
Just because it might be useful to know : owning several cabs and tons of PCB, Raiden Fighters was the very first game that requieres sync adjustement.

Luckily, adjusting to it was still good for any other pcb
 
Just because it might be useful to know : owning several cabs and tons of PCB, Raiden Fighters was the very first game that requieres sync adjustement.

Luckily, adjusting to it was still good for any other pcb
Catzoo, what did you do to fix the sync?
 
Catzoo, what did you do to fix the sync?
Arcade monitors generally have H.Hold and V.Hold adjustments. YMMV with PVM's.
Gotcha. Yeah, I knew that. I didn't know if there was something you could put in between the game and your monitor to change the sync to something the monitor can use natively like a scan converter.
 
May want to post over on shmups, there are a lot more in-depth PVM setup guys there. May be settings you can change, or a particular Extron box that can help you in terms of sync.

As far as the chip you pushed down on to get things working better. Grab a magnifying glass and start looking at the legs on the chip and see if you can find any that are lifted, crossed, or have poor solder joints.
 
May want to post over on shmups, there are a lot more in-depth PVM setup guys there. May be settings you can change, or a particular Extron box that can help you in terms of sync.

As far as the chip you pushed down on to get things working better. Grab a magnifying glass and start looking at the legs on the chip and see if you can find any that are lifted, crossed, or have poor solder joints.
Good call. I'll definitely hit those guys up about getting it to run on a pvm.

As far as board repair goes my plan tonight is to reflow all of the solder points on the 3 4 sockets that were in the area I had to press down. I had to press down hard enough for the board to flex to get it to work.
 
Oh, it's an eprom. I hadn't looked to see what RFJ-09 was.

Take it out, spray the socket with electrical contact cleaner and use a toothbrush on it. Then clean the legs of the eproms and reseat them.

Worth a shot before reflowing. They could very well just be dirty :)
 
Oh, it's an eprom. I hadn't looked to see what RFJ-09 was.

Take it out, spray the socket with electrical contact cleaner and use a toothbrush on it. Then clean the legs of the eproms and reseat them.

Worth a shot before reflowing. They could very well just be dirty :)
Oh man, they're super dirty. I pulled a few last night to look and could barely get them out of the sockets. They all looked really corroded. I'd hoped that re seating them would do the trick. Any advice on pulling the eproms without bending the legs all to hell?
 
Oh man, they're super dirty. I pulled a few last night to look and could barely get them out of the sockets. They all looked really corroded. I'd hoped that re seating them would do the trick. Any advice on pulling the eproms without bending the legs all to hell?
Using the right tool always helps!

https://www.digikey.com/product-det...xws-2XrzoS5-scay8uWxf9rhdgvPrdEgaAsnBEALw_wcB

If you're not careful with a flathead or something you can cut traces under the eproms trying to pry them up. That being said, being very careful I've used eyeglass screwdrivers in the past without an issue. You just need to go slow, lift only a tiny bit at a time and alternate sides, while being very mindful of where the tip likely is as you don't want to scrape the PCB under the eprom.
 
I noticed something while I was inspecting the board. A leg of the IC at UO15 is cut. It looks like it is supposed to be connected. Is it possible this is the culprit? Does anybody have a working copy of this board that can confirm?
 

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Ok, I’m totally baffled. Pulled RFJ-06 to 09 EPROMs and cleaned the contacts well. Still nothing when I turn it on. But. If I push down disconcertingly hard on RFJ-07 and 08 while powering on it boots! It registers controls and you can start the game!

The problem now is that if I take the weight off of that area the game freezes.

Any ideas? I’m totally baffled.
 

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If you've cleaned both the sockets and the eproms, I'd take a look at the solder joints for the sockets.

If those look good, or get reflowed and still it acts odd, start following traces, I suppose?
 
Using the right tool always helps!
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...xws-2XrzoS5-scay8uWxf9rhdgvPrdEgaAsnBEALw_wcB

If you're not careful with a flathead or something you can cut traces under the eproms trying to pry them up. That being said, being very careful I've used eyeglass screwdrivers in the past without an issue. You just need to go slow, lift only a tiny bit at a time and alternate sides, while being very mindful of where the tip likely is as you don't want to scrape the PCB under the eprom.
I greatly prefer this over both an extractor or a screwdriver

Wiha 27920 Precision Chip Lifter, ESD Safe, 1 x 3.5mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T9W5DW
 
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