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I whipped up a homemade 8pin mini din to SCART cable for testing.
Using a ferrite bead and connecting only the following pins to reduce video noise (none present 8o )...
32sDNvJ.png


This is what you are building inside the VLX machine, its essentially a JVS supergun (Jammafier+Jassifier+OSSC)...
dVabfya.jpg


Installed inside the L-AMI, or as I'm now calling it "tatelux" heh.
N2R3r6S.jpg


U5u3Nvr.jpg
 
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or as I'm now calling it "tatelux" heh.
My Vewlix FC now has a repro 2l14b control panel from @Rbtamanini, a Lindbergh psu, a Sega JVS type3 io, an LG monitor with a bracket from @Hadouken Arcade. I also took out the typeX2 and now mostly it plays a ringedge multi. Except when I run jamma... where I replaced the Taito scaler with an ossc and @invzim jammafier and Jassifier.

So nothing that powers it, handles controls, or that I touch or look at while gaming, is actually from Taito anymore. When I replace the speakers and amp... anyway the ship of Theseus comes to mind.

I call it my Ringberghlux.
 
I call it my Ringberghlux
Haha awesome!
Yea mine have Wei Ya PSUs and Taito JVS IOs, but aside from that its the same "Hacklux" job/parts.
LG monitor+custom bracket, Semitsu Joysticks+custom brackets, replaced speakers, Jammafier+Jassifier+OSSC.

Did you see my speaker mod shots? If you replace the Capcom you'll need to do this to the top speaker boxes...
before
FMUlSn5.jpg

after
jiXJFcB.jpg


before left, after right (backmounted)
2ikkNIa.jpg
 
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Do you feel the ferrite bead is necessary if you use the Tim Worthington RGB cable?
 
Only Tim Worthington gear you should be using is the actual SCART adapter.
The 8pin mini din that it ships with it isn't of the same shielded quality as the one I linked (its also longer than 3ft).

As for the bead, I don't know for sure that it helps with your setup.
It seemed to help with mine as the mini cable passed directly over the cab power supply/AC line filter.
 
Ok, I will play around with it and see what works best for my setup and will post back what I find. Definitely picking up the shorter shielded cable though to start.
 
fwiw my eTim-supplied 8pin din cable was my problem, and no amount of ferrite beads could solve it.
 
The eTim cable isn't great, I also had issues with it. Swapped it out with a better quality replacement and this solved all the interference issues I was having.
 
I went ahead and ordered the shielded cable and some ferrite beads to make sure I was all set. And it makes things cleaner anyway. No sense having an extra 3' of cable spooled in the cabinet.
 
The eTim cable isn't great, I also had issues with it.
Yup same, its not well shielded.
Adapter is fantastic tho!

That Kraydad guy on eBay sells good quality cables, I've ordered a bunch from him now.
 
My cable (link above) came in and looks great. I also installed and keyed a jamma extender. @jassin000 do you need an extra jamma key for your harness? ;)
 
na, I've got the cheap keyless its true but for now I've just labeled the ends.
 
Glad the project worked out for you. :thumbup:

Its really a very simply design and solder (with the one exception of U1 which is 8-pin SMD)...
That was the goal all along! Something easy to assemble and P'nP to the device chain intended for OSSC users (but useful to others as well).
 
I whipped up a homemade 8pin mini din to SCART cable for testing.
Using a ferrite bead and connecting only the following pins to reduce video noise (none present 8o )...
32sDNvJ.png


This is what you are building inside the VLX machine, its essentially a JVS supergun (Jammafier+Jassifier+OSSC)...
dVabfya.jpg


Installed inside the L-AMI, or as I'm now calling it "tatelux" heh.
N2R3r6S.jpg


U5u3Nvr.jpg
I would love to understand your setup.

Is that a Tate hooked up to 5x OSSC or something else?

It looks a little stretched to me seeing how it is a CPS2 title.
 
It looks a little stretched to me seeing how it is a CPS2 title.
It was stretched, I needed to set the 1:1 aspect ratio of the monitor.
I'll get an updated screen shot with proper pixel aspect soon.
I would love to understand your setup.
I thought it was pretty easy/straightforward.
My VLX cabs are 100% JVS ready...

Power (Wei Ya)
Sound (Taito amp with speaker replacement)
VGA (via OSSC at 2x scale because I have upgraded LG monitors)
Controls (Taito JVS IO version 1/2 I have both)

So Jammafier is at the center, connecting the CPS2 to the cab via JVS.
My board the Jassifier is outputting attenuated video at SCART levels via 8pin minidin/supergun standard.
OSSC scales to 5x (1600x1200) and outputs the video via HDMI to the LG.

I believe this is the same setup @ekorz is using, so I hope he can reinforce when I say...
This is the best looking (5x OSSC freesync display) most flexible (easy JVS restoration) amazing JAMMA setup in a VLX PERIOD. :thumbup:
 
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I believe this is the same setup @ekorz is using, so I hope he can reinforce when I say...
This is the best looking (5x OSSC freesync display) most flexible (easy JVS restoration) amazing JAMMA setup in a VLX PERIOD. :thumbup:
^^^ yes, same setup with two exceptions. First I’m running a Lindbergh psu and no step-down. Second with some sources (Taito x2, Ringedge) I target 720p with the ossc and let the monitor line-double from there. When the ossc pro is out I’ll switch to that for all scaling. I’m also keeping tabs on the other Jamma project here. But I’m extremely pleased with the setup right now. Currently though, it is both extremely flexible and very easy to run.

I’d say the only thing I may ever want to change now is the jvs io inside, to either a fastIO when required or a console/brooks setup at some point. Really though I’m not likely to do either. But if someone figures out how to stuff all that extra flexibility into the CP I’d probably add it.

Anything else, jamma or jvs, I’m basically totally covered right now.
 
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Oh joy. OSH Park only lets you order in batches of three or more. Which means I will have a pair that are likely gonna collect dust if I don't do something about it.

Not making any promises right now, but if this is as easy to assemble as claimed, I might assemble and put the other two up.
 
Not making any promises right now, but if this is as easy to assemble as claimed, I might assemble and put the other two up.
When assembling solder U1 (only SMD part) first.
Once thats in the hard part is over!

I wish SMD's could have been totally avoided...
At least we've only got one, and its only (4x4) 8pins (ie low enough count with high enough spacing so flux-drag method isn't needed).
 
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