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The important thing is that the X2 and the io in the cab match.

Whether that's fast or not isn't really important.

If it turns on and you can use the controls, you're set.
how do I check for that ? do I have to worry about it with KC ?
 
A Fast IO cab and X2 is more desirable among X system users thats true, however a JVS IO cab is going to be more versatile in the long run.
 
The important thing is that the X2 and the io in the cab match.

Whether that's fast or not isn't really important.

If it turns on and you can use the controls, you're set.
how do I check for that ? do I have to worry about it with KC ?
Like I said, turn it on, and if the controls work then you're set. It's that easy. They won't work if the io and the card in the X2 are mismatched.
 
if I get one or the other maybe I'll snag the opposite from you in the future
Unfortunately the way Taito designed the VLX you can't have both IO's installed at the same time (they occupy the same space). :(
  • A JAMMA kit and a JVS IO is fine
  • Or a JAMMA kit and a Fast IO is fine
  • But not a JVS IO and a Fast IO
I mean you CAN swap 'em around, but its a total pain in the ass (requires you to pull the IO tray and unscrew the PCB, swapping it for the other board).
IF it was me... I say get a JVS IO based cab and screw Fast IO (aka Fast IO is ONLY useful if you have an X based system, but a JVS can do everything else with adapters).
 
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in all it’s glory, from KC’s back to my shop where I’ll work on it.


I didn’t think it was dirty enough to warrant a full tear down, just fired up the air compressor and blew out the dust bunny’s. Wiped it down here and there.

I got a photo of the I/O board and some kind of smaller board, not sure what it is exactly.

KC couldn’t find the type x2 today but would bring it by when he finds it tomorrow.

Had some rust where players would rest there hands on the machine, so I’ll be sanding it down and maybe just hitting it with some good paint or time permitting repowder coat it.
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I didn’t think it was dirty enough to warrant a full tear down, just fired up the air compressor and blew out the dust bunny’s. Wiped it down here and there.
sorry to say it but KC doesn’t sell clean cabs. They were used in Japan where smoking is commonplace. I too thought my FC was “clean enough”. Then I sprayed it with some Krud Kutter, wiped it, and looked at the resulting towel! I also removed the controls and looked inside the little gap right at the front, it’s just ~five screws. You’ll see a goddamn colony of filth in that area, I guarantee it. Nicotine fibers cover the entire cab and have permeated every nook and cranny, and it’s not that hard to take it apart and clean.

Vewlix teardown, clean & rebuild (Completed).
 
I have now stripped and powerwashed all three of mine.
Big difference I highly recommend it.

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Just look how nasty this Diamond was.
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Sorry I dont have a fully dissembled after shot
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Oh goodness maybe you guys are right, I’ll mess with taking it apart tonight.

Any hints on finding a new set of locks for it as well? Generic ones found in the US work?

What’s the difference between the motherboard mounting on the MDF wood inside the case and it being setup like this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143654431874
 
Any hints on finding a new set of locks for it as well? Generic ones found in the US work?
The official lock is the LY1153 from a company named "First".
Taito stocks them, a full set (5 locks) will run ya over 100$.
You ONLY get the locks, they don't sell the tangs (also required).
MNto5Mu.jpg

A full set pictured above, 1-Ushape, 1-Lshape, 3-ovalshape.

You can't use generic tubular locks commonly found in the US because the cab is Japanese (ie it uses Metric not English).
What’s the difference between the motherboard mounting on the MDF wood inside the case and it being setup like this?
the "wood" inside the cab is a shelf... Where are you going to place the X unit if not on that shelf?
Cab power supplies sit at the bottom so it can't go their.
 
Ah, I thought I was only getting the ‘motherboard’ not the entire cpu. Sorry more newb :/

ahh bummer, I only have two the tang pieces. The one for the controls and the one for the back cover. I’ll msg KC and see if he has others laying around... maybe I’ll get lucky.
 
ahh bummer, I only have two the tang pieces. The one for the controls and the one for the back cover. I’ll msg KC and see if he has others laying around... maybe I’ll get lucky.
Check the coinbox. They're almost always in there.
 
ahh bummer, I only have two the tang pieces. The one for the controls and the one for the back cover. I’ll msg KC and see if he has others laying around... maybe I’ll get lucky.
Check the coinbox. They're almost always in there.
checked lastnight when I started taking it apart. KC responded and said he'd look to see if he can find them for me.
 
Any hints on finding a new set of locks for it as well? Generic ones found in the US work?
The official lock is the LY1153 from a company named "First".Taito stocks them, a full set (5 locks) will run ya over 100$.
You ONLY get the locks, they don't sell the tangs (also required).
MNto5Mu.jpg

A full set pictured above, 1-Ushape, 1-Lshape, 3-ovalshape.

You can't use generic tubular locks commonly found in the US because the cab is Japanese (ie it uses Metric not English).
What’s the difference between the motherboard mounting on the MDF wood inside the case and it being setup like this?
the "wood" inside the cab is a shelf... Where are you going to place the X unit if not on that shelf?Cab power supplies sit at the bottom so it can't go their.
Dam I never asked about locks, if I ever pull them off cabs I sell them for $7 each since that's what it costs me to replace with my generic locks. I don't really have any right now though, USPS shipped the last batch I sent to the wrong person and I had to send out my only spares to replace them
 
Dam I never asked about locks
The full story about locks is in truth only 4 of them are actually LY1153's, the 5th is a high security dimple lock/key exclusive to the coin box and different per-customer/arcade operator.
That way you couldn't say take a trip to Japan with an LY1153 key in your pocket, walk into an arcade and start taking out coins (only PCBs ;) ).
 
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