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List Retail ATX PSU that works with your NAOMI 1 and/or 2

RealMFnG

RealMFnG

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Hoping to capture retail ATX PSU's that have dialed in voltages for finicky NAOMI 1 & NAOMI 2 power needs. I know Mitsu recommends getting the highest possible wattage, but that is not correct if the ATX PSU outputs voltages that are out of tolerance range. With arcade PSU's with 3.3v becoming rarer, ATX PSU's wattages not being adjustable, need viable source for powering our beloved NAOMI systems. Please list the brand and model with voltages outputted for 12v, 5v, & 3.3v. I'll start:

EVGA - 80 PLUS 600W ATX 12V/EPS 12V (model# 100-W1-0600-K1)
Works with NAOMI 1 - YES
Works with NAOMI 2 - NO
Measured 12v - TBA
Measured 5v - TBA
Measured 3.3v - TBA
Measured with Sears multi-meter

I'll measure the voltages on this PSU when I get home this weekend.
 
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hey so how does that PSU work out??? I'm in need of one as well as an ATX to naomi adapter
 
Results are posted for that PSU. Only thing missing is the voltages. I haven't gotten around to measuring them. But since everyone's meter is different, likely we will end up with wide ranges +/- 0.xx volts. Was hoping more would chime in here, but I guess not. The important thing is the results are posted.

Here is a good guide on where Naomi voltages should be at if you need more info: http://www.organizedmassconfusion.com/?p=1263. As for the ATX to Naomi adapter, some folks here will sell you one or you can make one and it will cost you about $4.
 
I think you're going to have a bad time getting consistent results. Any 2 good quality meters should measure the same exact voltage, but the disparity between the voltages on consumer grade PSUs is going to be crappy from the disparity in the components used in the factory to their age, even wire gauge and length will dramatically alter the power output as well as the draw from the PCB. Thats why your ATX PSU works on the NAOMI1 but not the NAOMI2 likely it's drawing more heavily and and the drop across the lines is enough that the voltage is out of range by the time it reaches the PCB. ATX PSU's are "self adjusting" but they don't know the voltages at the other end of the wire, plus PC hardware is designed to be really lax when it comes to this stuff but arcade hardware is not because it didn't have to be due to adjustable PSUs.

Instead why not buy something like the Meanwell QP-150-3A? it offers 3.3V 5V 12V and -5V, amperage output is inline with a JVS PSU and it hooks up like a classic arcade PSU plus it allows for adjustment on all the output voltages. Meanwell make PSU for industrial applications so it'd probably outlive original arcade PSUs anyway.
spec sheet: http://www.meanwell.com/mw_search/QP-150/QP-150-spec.pdf
a place that sells them: https://power.sager.com/qp-150-3a-2614558.html?Keywords=QP-150-3A


There are cheaper adjustable industrial PSU options if you don't want to front the cash for a Meanwell.

Alternatively you could use an original arcade PSU and supplement it with a dedicated 3.3V supply. Sega did this on their official JAMMA kit for the Model 3 as well as in upgrade kits for machines moving from Model 2 to Model 3
Something like the Meanwell RS-50-3.3 again it's adjustable and it's only $16
spec sheet: http://www.meanwell.com/mw_search/RS-50/RS-50-spec.pdf
a place that sells them: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...r28WdrYZgydYcvh9At9X6fCmJZIZZ_l0P9xoCDy7w_wcB

I plan on running a similar 24V model for use with gun recoil.

...just something to consider. Personally I try to avoid consumer grade parts for arcade applications whenever possible.
 
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I charge $25 for ATX adapters because it's just busy work. It's fun at first but gets old quick. Lol. Yeah the parts are fairly inexpensive and readily available in the US. It's a great skill to learn. Being able to crimp well opens up a lot of options for you and will save you a TON of money. Have you seen what distributors charge for wiring harnesses?
 
honestly if incan get someone to make me a PSU for my naomi model 1 I'd totally pay/commission for it.. i have my net dimm kit sitting in my closet waiting to be broken in.. and im really itching to play project justice
 
twistedsymphony said:
I think you're going to have a bad time getting consistent results. Any 2 good quality meters should measure the same exact voltage, but the disparity between the voltages on consumer grade PSUs is going to be crappy from the disparity in the components used in the factory to their age, even wire gauge and length will dramatically alter the power output as well as the draw from the PCB. Thats why your ATX PSU works on the NAOMI1 but not the NAOMI2 likely it's drawing more heavily and and the drop across the lines is enough that the voltage is out of range by the time it reaches the PCB. ATX PSU's are "self adjusting" but they don't know the voltages at the other end of the wire, plus PC hardware is designed to be really lax when it comes to this stuff but arcade hardware is not because it didn't have to be due to adjustable PSUs.

Instead why not buy something like the Meanwell QP-100-3A? it offers 3.3V 5V 12V and -5V, amperage output is inline with a JVS PSU and it hooks up like a classic arcade PSU plus it allows for adjustment on all the output voltages. Meanwell make PSU for industrial applications so it'd probably outlive original arcade PSUs anyway.
spec sheet: http://www.meanwell.com/mw_search/QP-100/QP-100-spec.pdf
a place that sells them: https://power.sager.com/qp-100-3a-2...M5QgxlZnD2KxdedMQxoCXkXw_wcB#dvSpecifications


There are cheaper adjustable industrial PSU options if you don't want to front the cash for a Meanwell.

Alternatively you could use an original arcade PSU and supplement it with a dedicated 3.3V supply. Sega did this on their official JAMMA kit for the Model 3 as well as in upgrade kits for machines moving from Model 2 to Model 3
Something like the Meanwell RS-50-3.3 again it's adjustable and it's only $16
spec sheet: http://www.meanwell.com/mw_search/RS-50/RS-50-spec.pdf
a place that sells them: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...r28WdrYZgydYcvh9At9X6fCmJZIZZ_l0P9xoCDy7w_wcB

I plan on running a similar 24V model for use with gun recoil.

...just something to consider. Personally I try to avoid consumer grade parts for arcade applications whenever possible.
Click to expand...
"Why didn't you say so before?" - Luke Skywalker
 
It's been brought up in other threads. deibit was the first one to encourage me to look at meanwell's catalog for specific models.

looking at the specs again the QP-150-3A would be a safer choice than the QP-100-3A since it offer 10A on the 5V and 3.3V rails where the 100 only offers 8. or if you want to go overboard the QP-200-3A

for reference these are the PSUs used by Sega during the NAOMI era compaired with a typical Arcade PSU and the Mean Well options.

From my experience the Model 3 boards run almost entirely on the 3.3V power, I'd suspect that NAOMI is similar. These PSUs are designed for the "JVS" spec so they have a lot of overhead built in for future boards needing more power and likely the 5V and 12V are as high as they are for legacy support of older JAMMA PCBs.

HAPP (generic) "Arcade PSU"
3.3V [N/A]
5.0V 15A (adjustable)
12.0V 2A
-5.0V 1A

400-5330-03 (used on model 3 and Caged NOAMI setups)
3.3V 12A (adjustable)
5.0V 7A (adjustable)
12.0V 2A
-5.0V [N/A]

400-5397-01 (shipped with most NAOMI setups)
3.3V 12A (adjustable)
5.0V 10A (adjustable)
12.0V 2A
-5.0V [N/A]

400-5443-01 (shipped with most Chihiro setups)
3.3V 12A (adjustable)
5.0V 15A (adjustable)
12.0V 4A
-5.0V [N/A]

Mean Well QP-150-3A
3.3V 10A (adjustable)
5.0V 10A (adjustable)
12.0V 5A (adjustable)
-5.0V 0.6A (adjustable)


Mean Well QP-200-3A
3.3V 15A (adjustable)
5.0V 15A (adjustable)
12.0V 6A (adjustable)
-5.0V 0.7A (adjustable)

-----
Mean Well RS-50-3.3
3.3V 10A (adjustable)

Mean Well RS-75-3.3
3.3V 15A (adjustable)
 
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Thanks man. Really good food for thought. I actually have 3 or 4 Sun PSU's. I don't need the ATX solution. But not everyone has access to the same arcade resources that you or I do. This thread is to help the guys who's only option may just be an ATX PSU.
 
I'll add that the EVGA 430W from Amazon works fine with a Naomi 1 + GD-ROM setup too. Also Namco System 256. If you want to save a few bucks on wattage.
 
Chihiro -- what kind of power supply do you need to run one of those with a Netdimm and GDROM?
 
SNK-NEO-GEO said:
Chihiro -- what kind of power supply do you need to run one of those with a Netdimm and GDROM?
Click to expand...
twistedsymphony said:
400-5443-01 (shipped with most Chihiro setups)
3.3V 12A (adjustable)
5.0V 15A (adjustable)
12.0V 4A
-5.0V [N/A]
Click to expand...
^that PSU or something that meets those specs, though I'd suspect any of the Sega JVS PSUs will work.
 
beast1x5 said:
honestly if incan get someone to make me a PSU for my naomi model 1 I'd totally pay/commission for it.. i have my net dimm kit sitting in my closet waiting to be broken in.. and im really itching to play project justice
Click to expand...
Didn't mean to leave you hanging here. Getting you going depends a little on the PSU you have for the Naomi. From there, a connector is needed. What PSU do you have now?
 
i have the actual naomi PSU but no way of connecting it... I ordered a raidmax 350w psu which supplies 115v to 230v depending on which power setting you have on it.. and mitsurugi-w just sent me an atx to naomi cable... both arrive tomorrow so hopefully i'll be able to get my multi kit running proper tomorrow
 
beast1x5 said:
i have the actual naomi PSU but no way of connecting it... I ordered a raidmax 350w psu which supplies 115v to 230v depending on which power setting you have on it.. and mitsurugi-w just sent me an atx to naomi cable... both arrive tomorrow so hopefully i'll be able to get my multi kit running proper tomorrow
Click to expand...
Cool, let us know how it turns out and with that PSU.
 
Hey @twistedsymphony, wondering how to get the Meanwell amps to work with a cab that already has an aracde PSU. Specifically, the Happ-style PSU's that have a cooling fan rather than the book-sized switching PSU's.

For Happ-style PSU's:

Given these PSU's have AC going out of them to an AMP connector, would you then connect the Meanwell as follows:

AC Line-in==>Arcade PSU==>AC Line-out==>Power Distribution Block==>ISO Transformer==>Monitor==>END

then, From Power Distribution Block==>Meanwell PSU==Naomi==>END

??????
 
typically it's AC in -> power switch -> AC filter -> AC distribution

AC distribution has 3+ outputs
1. Marquee Lamp
2. Isolation transformer -> Monitor
3. PSU
4. other devices that may need ac (ac cooling fans, secondary PSUs, amp transformers etc)

depending on the cab the Isolation transformer will have a pass through so one output will go to the transformer and the other will go to the AC distro. Some cabs have secondary isolation transformer one for the whole cab and a second for the monitor.

On a whole it's best not to mess with the AC setup in your cab.


In ANY case I would NOT typically recommend using the AC output of your existing PSU. I definitely would not run a monitor from it., a secondary PSU might be ok though.
It should just be a pass through but you're basically hoping that whoever made the PSU built it well enough to support the current you're drawing through it. by using it you're unnecessarily introducing a potential failure point that doesn't need to be there for no gain at all.

----
I'm assuming you're adding a 3.3V PSU to accommodate your existing PSU? Where I would recommend taping the AC input really depending on what's available? are there screw terminals on the AC distribution setup that you can tap into? is there a spare AC connector? is there a normal AC connector that you could build a Y-adapter for? if all of these are "NO" then maybe consider using the PSU pass-through just for the sake of not cutting up the original AC harness. if you have some picture of the AC wires I can give you more specific advice.

No matter what your Earth ground on the input of your new PSU should be tied in with the earth ground on the rest of the cab.

On the output of the new PSU the ground should also be tied in with the ground wires from the other PSU. (it should go without saying but DO NOT tie this in with earth ground)
 
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