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olePigeon

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Hello,

Signed up here after VAPS went down. They've been down for quite a while and I'm a bit desperate to get my machine going before Halloween (assuming there IS a Halloween this year.) :/

Just a preface: I'm relatively new to arcades and I'm not terribly technically minded, though I do know how to solder even if I don't know what a part does. I've recapped a two-dozen vintage computers as well as 2 CRTs (Joust and Defender), and most recently my Defender power supply.

So I have an original Williams Defender arcade in almost mint condition (I'm the second owner). Had it set up last year for Halloween (along with Joust, Centipede, and a skill crane.) Someone tripped on the power main power cord and forced the power to go on/off quickly. All my machines restarted and came back up, except for my Defender. I shut it off, turned it back on, and nothing happened. No sound, no picture, nothing. I looked inside the cabinet and all 4 diagnostic LEDs are lit. According to my manual they're used for error codes ... well, it doesn't have a situation where all 4 are lit.

Back on VAPS I was told I should invest in a good mutli-meter before continuing, all I had was an old cheezy Radio Shack. So I finally got a Brymen BM257s that was on sale. I tested the power supply, and something was wrong. The voltages were way off on some of the pins (I THINK the 12v was closer to 7v, and the 5v was running high.) Unfortunately, I didn't write down what was wrong and I don't remember which pins were reading wrong, which I now realize in hindsight it could have been really useful in diagnosing. :( The giant capacitor had a broken lead and was bulging on the negative terminal. One other capacitor was dented in the middle like it had been pinched by a pair of pliers. There was some electrolytic spillage, too.

The original owner apparently recapped the power supply, but used the completely wrong capacitors. The larger capacitor was connected over lamp chord. I think it have contributed to the failure.

In any event, I cleaned and recapped the power supply, and everything now reads perfectly. I had hoped that was the only problem, but unfortunately the 4 LEDs are still on. The good thing is that I hear the bong again when it turns on. I noticed that it does that on my Joust as well. It'll do an audible bong, THEN do the startup sound for Defender or Joust. Before the power supply recap, there was no bong. It was dead silent. So I guess that's an improvement.

Anyway, I'm at the point where I don't know how to proceed. I've recapped the bad power supply (something died when the power was tripped), but it didn't fix the overall issue. I'm worried that the flaky power supply and bad giant capacitor caused a surge and killed something. :( All the fuses are good, though. I even put in brand new fuses, but no change.

I do have a working Williams Joust which I've read shares a lot of the same parts as Defender. I don't know if that can be used to help diagnose the Defender.

Thanks,

oP
 
Sound card will bong completely independently of the main game pcb if it boots. I would check to see if you are getting 5v at the chips on the main pcb and then maybe look into the ram. A big issue with defender is usually the pins and connectors coming from the power supply to the main pcb making a bad connection and causing a lot of resistance and also the ram chips failing. So I would check both of those as well.
 
OK, thanks. I checked it at the connector on the PSU, but I didn't check it after the wiring was connected. I got a gator clip for my multi-meter so I could clip on the ground. That should make it easier to poke around.

Edit: Looks like VAPS is back up. I guess they were updating the BBS software. Someone else is having the same issue but no resolution. One person said that you only need ROM 3 installed to get diagnostics going (preferably 1-3). So that's something else I can try, pulling everything and seeing if I can get a change in the LEDs.

I guess I could also try swapping ribbon cables with my working Joust to see if it's a ribbon cable issue. The other thread said that a bad ribbon cable can cause 4 LED issue.
 
Sound card will bong completely independently of the main game pcb if it boots. I would check to see if you are getting 5v at the chips on the main pcb and then maybe look into the ram. A big issue with defender is usually the pins and connectors coming from the power supply to the main pcb making a bad connection and causing a lot of resistance and also the ram chips failing. So I would check both of those as well.
I'm really digging my new multimeter. Was able to use the gator clip attachment to just clip onto the ground and check the 5v really quick. :)

Good news is that all the chips are getting 5v. Bad news is no change. I tried reseating all the ICs. :(

I would imagine that if the any of the RAM chips got zapped to death, the diagnostic would still run, wouldn't it? At least tell me there's bad RAM. It did on the Joust I got (turns out it was just corrosion, and some Deoxit fixed it. :))
 
I also took a closer look at my Joust, and it's not interchangeable. Well, I could swap RAM dips around, but I don't think it's the RAM.
 
VAPS is back up and now I'm cross-posting. I'll go ahead and close this thread.

Thanks for the help, @aramis
 
the only board interchangeable between joust and defender is the soundboard.

the others only look similar.
first thing i would check after the molex connectors would be the chipsockets - they arent great.
 
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