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slevin

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After picking up this Blast City from KC the other day and taking it apart to clean, I think I have a better understanding of what everyone is talking about.... I THINK...

So some of my general questions regarding this particular cabinet...my experience being limited to fooling around with the Vewlix C I got running with a TTX2 and Niko Multigame only.

Blast Cities are usually wired for JAMMA (?)

If I want to keep things super simple on this cabinet, can I just buy Jamma PCB games, plug them in and play them?

I see a lot info about using Capcom Boards, Atomiswave, Naomi, Neo Geo MVS etc. Can I basically use any of them to play games on this cabinet? (some require different power, kick buttons etc?)

If I wanted to play just Atomiswave games in they're native form. Something like this will allow me to, but I'll obviously be paying a shiton for it...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Slug...605726?hash=item3da71b8d1e:g:gjYAAOSwCntfDmDh

If I want to play just Neo Geo games, would I be better off getting a MV-1B and using a Multicart from ebay ?
Something like this ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Neo-Geo-MV...AOSwLXpfJ2XD:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!91006!US!-1

with this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SNK-161-in...542462?hash=item3d9575fbfe:g:W4oAAOSwKSNdpv~1


I like the idea of the Naomi Netdimm I think, so I might try and work on that on the side as I get this Blast City up and running with a PCB game sooner.

Thanks for your time!
 
Blast Cities are usually wired for JAMMA (?)
Blast Cities are not usually wired for anything.

there is a "Cab IO" PCB and Sega Sold unique sub-harnesses that connected to the CAB IO for JAMMA, JVS, or Model 3. There may have been others but those are the three most common.

The JVS harness does have a JAMMA connector but it's pinned for use with the Sega JVS to JAMMA IO board.


the JVS harness might be the best option for the boards you've listed, it puts button 4 and 5 on the JAMMA edge instead of a separate kick harness which is ideal for MVS, Atomiswave, and NAOMI when using the Sega JVS to JAMMA IO.

This also works with most of the 4-button Capcom games, but not with the 6-button Capcom fighters as they use a separate kick connector.
 
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Assuming your cab is wired up JAMMA.
If I want to keep things super simple on this cabinet, can I just buy Jamma PCB games, plug them in and play them?
Yes.
I see a lot info about using Capcom Boards, Atomiswave, Naomi, Neo Geo MVS etc. Can I basically use any of them to play games on this cabinet? (some require different power, kick buttons etc?)
MVS is an oddball. Multislots are not JAMMA standard, you need to use an adapter. Single slots are JAMMA and you can just plug it right in. I'd suggest you get the real multi over the 161 in 1 or whatever though. Vast difference in quality (but also in price)

Naomi is JVS standard, and you'll need a JVS I/O AND a separate power supply to get that running.
If I wanted to play just Atomiswave games in they're native form. Something like this will allow me to, but I'll obviously be paying a shiton for it...
AW motherboards cost like $70-90, no need to overpay. And all the expensive games have bootleg/repro options that are fairly available for sub-$100.
 
Will the MV-1B work for the MVS single slot you're talking about? and where can I find the real multigame? I keep seeing the china ones on ebay.

I'm leaning toward making this machine for mostly Neo Geo titles. (I wish I snagged that Neo 29 someone sold on the fb group last week for $500 though)
 
Will the MV-1B work for the MVS single slot you're talking about? and where can I find the real multigame? I keep seeing the china ones on ebay.
Yes, but don't go out of your way to pay 5x market just to get a new one. Used ones are perfectly serviceable.

Get your MultiMVS Here:
(I wish I snagged that Neo 29 someone sold on the fb group last week for $500 though)
They pop up often enough from 5-900, don't sweat a missed listing.
 
You are right to say the Blast is usually wired for JAMMA, in that in most cases it comes with one of the two JAMMA harness options installed already. It's very rare to find one with a Model 3 harness in the wild.

A short to-do list of things to do when you first get a Blast:

* Clean clean clean. Take everything out and get some super clean in there and go nuts with a hose. Do it outside when it's sunny so it dries rather quickly. Take out the wiring harness before getting too into it lest you corrode some connectors.
* It wouldn't hurt to recap the power supply and sound amp while you're in there.
* Check the speakers for foam rot; it's very common that the drivers have broken or missing foam and sound bad as a result.
* Check under the control panel for the typical cracks that occur in the fiberglass where the CP mates to the cabinet.
* The monitor might be really dim and fuzzy; the series of tubes used in the Blast give the impression of being rather fragile both physically and electrically/internally. If you are lucky this won't be a problem.
* The monitor almost certainly will have poor convergence in the corners as the permalloy strips tend to be totally cooked and might even fall out of the yoke. It is worth removing the monitor and correcting that.
* I would suggest cleaning the monitor as well.
 
You are right to say the Blast is usually wired for JAMMA, in that in most cases it comes with one of the two JAMMA harness options installed already. It's very rare to find one with a Model 3 harness in the wild.

A short to-do list of things to do when you first get a Blast:

* Clean clean clean. Take everything out and get some super clean in there and go nuts with a hose. Do it outside when it's sunny so it dries rather quickly. Take out the wiring harness before getting too into it lest you corrode some connectors.
* It wouldn't hurt to recap the power supply and sound amp while you're in there.
* Check the speakers for foam rot; it's very common that the drivers have broken or missing foam and sound bad as a result.
* Check under the control panel for the typical cracks that occur in the fiberglass where the CP mates to the cabinet.
* The monitor might be really dim and fuzzy; the series of tubes used in the Blast give the impression of being rather fragile both physically and electrically/internally. If you are lucky this won't be a problem.
* The monitor almost certainly will have poor convergence in the corners as the permalloy strips tend to be totally cooked and might even fall out of the yoke. It is worth removing the monitor and correcting that.
* I would suggest cleaning the monitor as well.
Thanks for all the pointers, I tore the thing apart and soaked lots of the pieces in degreaser before hitting them with a soft brush, worked like a charm. Lots of the original plastic got it's white/off white color back. It looks like the main 'frame' of the cabient was taken apart and repainted white at some point? unless I just got a really clean one. I might touch up a few spots with white appliance paint.

After cleaning the monitor up more, I noticed it has some burn but in the 'tate' position. Once I took the monitor bezel off I noticed the monitor nuts holding it to the chassis weren't tightened all the way back down. Previous owner must have messed with the monitor at some point?

I sent KC photos of the burn and he offered to pay for recapping at PNL, I just need to drag the monitor down to them. But If i understand the capping correctly, that's only to adjust for the brightness of the display, it won't help the burn in at all because the phosphorus is simply getting tapped out.

I've been beating my head against a wall trying to figure out what system I want to put inside too. Part of me want to hold true and do something original for the machine, like a PCB single game or a system with one game. But the cost is the same as piecing together a fancy naomi netdimm setup.

I'm also trying to figure out what marquee I want for this blast city. Does anyone have a list of the 'native" games that would have come with one? I really like the shape, design marquee holder of the blast city and would like to keep it somewhat 'original' looking. I ordered the original pink/green buttons and joysticks for it as well. Was SUPER tempted to order a stainless panel from Japan for it because mine is rusted pretty bad at the edges too.

It seems like mine is wired just for JAMMA, not jamma/Jvs right? But my controls are 6 button ready?

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A recap is something done in the name of maintenance, and usually benefits geometry, image stability, and color, all of which contribute to overall picture quality. If your tube is dim or the focus is poor, I can almost guarantee you that the recap is not going to fix it.

The burn is never going to go away, that's correct. Recapping it will do nothing for that.

It is normal to remove a monitor and put it back, so I wouldn't even call that "messing" with it. However, it's on the previous owner (or most likely KC) for not mounting it back properly.

Your cabinet looks like it has the normal JAMMA harness.

A Blast is a comfortable cabinet for a 1L4B or 1L6B vertical setup for late '90s / early 2000s STGs.
 
I would not run a good game on kcs cab till you sort it out. I burnt out a game poping it in my blast. I would suggest trying to find a 001 loom which is jamma and jvs. I would also see if @rewrite is not busy and can recap your psu if your not able to recap stuff yourself. Theres also a fan you can buy off amazon to replace the psu fan.

I also suggest taking monitor off and place it on some grass and hose it off with a light spray of water with some simple green. Let it dry for a couple days.

as @Hatsune Mike stated most likely the convergence well be bad unless he let you test the cabs before buying. If your really adventurous take the yoke off and be careful of wires. Inspect inside yoke and see if any of the winding are squirley> GENTLY put them back into place. You know what I mean if you take off yoke.

Also alot of kcs blast have an issue with a electronic rattling or noise. It was found out that there are metal tabs under neath the yoke that have rusted and have gotten loose. Which would also be the cause of convergence.GENTLY shake the yoke and mind the cables so they dont come loose and see if any of those metal shaving come out. ONLY do this if you here a noise or vibrating when you run a game. But if you try to fix the convergence with these in the yoke it well be a bitch especially if you fix it and then rotate monitor later the metal shavings well move causing your convergence to go bad again.

I only suggest this stuff if your compentent at all with arcade parts I would not suggest you do any of this except lean the cab if this is your first ever cab. Maybe you can find someone near you to help you.
 
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I also suggest taking monitor off and place it on some grass and hose it off with a light spray of water with some simple green. Let it dry for a couple days.
That being said, do NOT get water in the anode cap hole.
 
I also suggest taking monitor off and place it on some grass and hose it off with a light spray of water with some simple green. Let it dry for a couple days.
That being said, do NOT get water in the anode cap hole.
yes get a a paper towel and stuff it in there. But its not a big deal if you do. You can get a can of air and blow it out. and when the monitor drys it should be dry itself
 
I would usually face the monitor away from sun so the sun hits the back of the monitor and slowly move the monitor as the sun shifted.
 
dont use duck tape on the anonde cap hole as theres usually greese there thats good for the cap. You can purchase the greese yourself if you want to reapply it.
 
I got plenty of water in the anode cap hole and it's fine, just dry it out thoroughly, displace with some isopropyl alcohol, use compressed air, etc.
 
I got plenty of water in the anode cap hole and it's fine, just dry it out thoroughly, displace with some isopropyl alcohol, use compressed air, etc.
It's a pain. And a risk if it doesn't dry thoroughly.

So much easier to just not get any in there to start IMO. To each their own when you know what you're doing. But when offering advice to new folks I think it's best to err on the side of caution.
 
Also alot of kcs blast have an issue with a electronic rattling or noise. It was found out that there are metal tabs under neath the yoke that have rusted and have gotten loose. Which would also be the cause of convergence.GENTLY shake the yoke and mind the cables so they dont come loose and see if any of those metal shaving come out. ONLY do this if you here a noise or vibrating when you run a game. But if you try to fix the convergence with these in the yoke it well be a bitch especially if you fix it and then rotate monitor later the metal shavings well move causing your convergence to go bad again.
I’ve got a blast I still need to tear into, but it has a buzzing from the monitor. I was assuming it was fly back, but maybe it could be this? Any way to tell without pulling the yoke?
 
@98pacecar open the back of the cab the monitor panel. Listen carefully. youll be able to tell if its coming from flyback or yoke.

ALL MY info always make sure your grounded when your dealing with your cab
 
you could out some rubber gloves on and lightly push on the copper windings of the outside of the yoke see if the vibrating stops or gets less noisy. If it does then thats problem. It could still be noisy even pushing it. I know its hard dealing with this stuff.
 
@98pacecar open the back of the cab the monitor panel. Listen carefully. youll be able to tell if its coming from flyback or yoke.
My favorite trick is get a paper towel tube, and put one end over the suspect component, and the other over your ear. And move it around. You'll narrow down things pretty quickly.
 
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