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LemmyBarnett

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Hello,

Installed multi today. All seemed to go well, although I just get a purple/red screen on boot.

I think I might need to short EXC5 but I have no idea how to do that. Any advice or guides for this please?

Thanks!
 
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I had a similar issue when I did mine. Couple questions...
1) Are you using the encrypted or decrypted ROM pack? If you've not tried it, try using the decrypted ones and seeing if they work.
2) Do you have the CN9 connection wired in correctly? This is what reprograms the encryption keys if you're using the encrypted ROMs.

Data - CN9 #2
Setup1 - CN9 #3
Clock - CN9 #4
Setup2 - CN9 #5

This was my problem, I didn't have CN9#3 and CN9#5 connected correctly, so the decryption keys failed to get written to the board.
 
Here is the board.

I removed the battery before putting the multi in.

I get the red/purple screen if I boot with an SD, and even if I boot without it.
 

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Here is the board.

I removed the battery before putting the multi in.

I get the red/purple screen if I boot with an SD, and even if I boot without it.
Looks like you have the Arthrimus connector like I do, I had a hard time with the solder through points on Setup1 and Setup2. I would recommend trying a decrypted game and seeing if that loads to try and diagnose the issue.
 
Sorry, I meant to mention that I tried the decrypted rom set too like you suggested. Still this red screen.

The red screen seems to be there regardless of what is on the sd, or what is flashed.
 
No, the SD Card was done on my Windows 10 machine.

It's a SanDisk 8Gb. I've also tried a SanDisk 32Gb (only other one I had not being used).

I've ordered 2 different 4Gb for tomorrow to see if the SD card is the issue.
 
Sorry, I meant to mention that I tried the decrypted rom set too like you suggested. Still this red screen.

The red screen seems to be there regardless of what is on the sd, or what is flashed.
Bah, unrelated then... hopefully someone else can assist.
 
Solid color screens are normally a sign of suicide, or in your case a potential inability to program/retain a key.
Try the decrypted (older) ROM set as these should work even if you have no key/null value.
IF decrypted still do not work, you can explore other potential issues like connectivity of the multi to the B-board and/or shorting EXE5.
 
I just tried the decrypted ROM set again.

It boots to red screen, then I successfully flash a game - "have fun" - but it goes to red screen.

I also tried the troubleshooting roms "01010101" or similar, it verifies, says "have fun", but ultimately, I get the red screen of death!
 
Check the pins of the multi, make sure they are pressed all the way down into the B-board.
Ensure the B-board is making good contact with A-board (removing the support post from the original shell allows the PCB to wiggle/sink inside) verify by running the board bare/ie with no shell directly pushed into the A-board.
Short EXE5 and potentially CC1 (not sure if CC1 is recommended anymore, research this further).

Shorting allows the (previously stored) key to be fully cleared from memory, even with no battery a fresh kill will retain the key for upto 24 hours depending on charge left in caps.
Try to boot another game with a old key in memory it will act like a suicide/ie solid color screen.
 
Thanks - I removed everything from the shells, reseated everything as fully as I could (all pins look as far in as they can go to me).

Just A Board - I get red screen.

When I seat the B into the A - red screen.

I'm sick of this red screen!

Anyway, I've got to go and sleep in a tent with my kids(!) - if anyone has any more things to try, please let me know, and I'll give them a go tomorrow.

Thanks for everyone's help so far!
 
You short EXE5 or CC1 (or both) yet?

Its easy, you just turn off the system and hold a metal object across the feet for a few moments.
 
You short EXE5 or CC1 (or both) yet?

Its easy, you just turn off the system and hold a metal object across the feet for a few moments.
When I did this I wrapped a small bit of wire around the three pins of EXE5 and left it alone for awhile. But my issues turned out to be unrelated.
 
I'll try shorting it again tomorrow. Do I do this with the A+B boards connected (but turned off)?

Weird how I get the red screen on just the A board as well. I was expecting something different.
 
Here's a discussion on the red screen issue (not for the multi-kit) where the fix was replacing the 74LS245s. But, it may be unrelated... still an interesting read.
 
So, I shorted EXC5 this morning (after leaving it overnight) - I did this by wrapping a wire around the three legs of the capacitor - do I even need this capacitor now that there is no battery? Can I just remove it?

I then did a slow format (FAT32) of my SD Card, put the latest RomSet on it (encrypted files), and put it back into my multi.

Started up the CPS2 - red screen of death.
Flashed a game- LCD said it flashed correctly, "have fun" etc, rebooted it automatically - red screen of death.

Not sure what to try next? The boards (Marvel vs Capcom) were working fine before, as I literally tested them 5 mins before I did the install.

Here's my steps from when I installed it yesterday:
- opened up B board
- removed EPROMS
- removed battery
- soldered on the Key Writing solder board thingy
- installed the multi
- everything is fitted tightly from what I can see
- I believe that the connector thing is the right way round (I've tested it the other way as well)
- I've only seen the red screen since doing installing, nothing else

Any ideas what to try next are most welcome!

Some photos of my board in case someone can see an issue.

20200814_084823.jpg
20200814_084810.jpg
 

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alls I can suggest you try is to confirm there are no broken pins on any of the multi kit (touch them all and make sure theyre secure and fastened, if you happen to remove the whole kit again).

eyeball the whole multi kit and make sure there is not small piece of wire/rubbish which could possibly be bridging something on the board.

grab a small flashlight and work the light all the way around the multi's 2 main boards and confirm all the pins look at though they are connected deep enough.

its not going to hurt to keep using the decrypted set until you get that working, then you can count out the decryption as being a problem until you get a game booting.

when I am putting together a kit and booting it up for the first time i leave the game board (top cover)case off and this gives me a better ability to fasten all the pins properly between the A and B boards.

I have run into some issues with multi installs, just keep at it you will hopefully get it working soon :) goodluck!
 
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