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CPS2 Multi - red screen

Kujako said:
LemmyBarnett said:
Here's a close up the soldering. The bottom solder may be an issue here?
Click to expand...
It's hard to tell with those through hole soldering points. But, if you used flux it should have pulled the solder down and into the hole making it concave rather than convex. However it could still look like yours and be fine if enough solder was used. It took me several tries to get the soldering right. Those two points are Setup1 and Setup2 pins, that program the encryption key. So if they're faulty, it should in theory run an unencrypted ROM, but fail to write the encryption key. So... now that the bridge board is correctly seated (going to assume it's facing the right direction, hard to tell from photos) there may ALSO be a problem with the key writing, so I would again discharge EXC5 (just to be sure the keys are blank) then try an unencrypted ROM again.
Click to expand...
I've removed EXC5 entirely.
 
LemmyBarnett said:
Kujako said:
LemmyBarnett said:
Here's a close up the soldering. The bottom solder may be an issue here?
Click to expand...
It's hard to tell with those through hole soldering points. But, if you used flux it should have pulled the solder down and into the hole making it concave rather than convex. However it could still look like yours and be fine if enough solder was used. It took me several tries to get the soldering right. Those two points are Setup1 and Setup2 pins, that program the encryption key. So if they're faulty, it should in theory run an unencrypted ROM, but fail to write the encryption key. So... now that the bridge board is correctly seated (going to assume it's facing the right direction, hard to tell from photos) there may ALSO be a problem with the key writing, so I would again discharge EXC5 (just to be sure the keys are blank) then try an unencrypted ROM again.
Click to expand...
I've removed EXC5 entirely.
Click to expand...
I have no idea if removing EXC5 is a good idea or not... I think it's still needed, but I do see removing it mentioned in places online.

Edit: I have to circle back to the bridge board looking "wrong". All the ones I've seen, have visible traces on the surface an an RU certification stamp. The one you show in your pics has neither...

(should look similar to this, with the RU marks in the positions shown to ensure proper orientation)
ru.png
 
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Yeah, mine has that icon on the reverse side - it makes it hard to know which way round it is meant to go as all the instructions look like your image (with the RU mark on the top).

Mine is as attached (flipped) - not sure if this is a mistake, or just the new style of board?
 

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LemmyBarnett said:
Yeah, mine has that icon on the reverse side - it makes it hard to know which way round it is meant to go as all the instructions look like your image (with the RU mark on the top).

Mine is as attached (flipped) - not sure if this is a mistake, or just the new style of board?
Click to expand...
That sure looks to me like someone soldered the connector on the wrong side... do you have a multi-meter where you can check continuity of the pins? It's not straight through, and from the picture there is simply no way to attach that board so that the correct pins on one side connect to the correct ones on the other.
 
Kujako said:
LemmyBarnett said:
Yeah, mine has that icon on the reverse side - it makes it hard to know which way round it is meant to go as all the instructions look like your image (with the RU mark on the top).

Mine is as attached (flipped) - not sure if this is a mistake, or just the new style of board?
Click to expand...
That sure looks to me like someone soldered the connector on the wrong side... do you have a multi-meter where you can check continuity of the pins? It's not straight through, and from the picture there is simply no way to attach that board so that the correct pins on one side connect to the correct ones on the other.
Click to expand...
I've got a multi-meter coming tomorrow funnily enough - I'll see if I can work out the continuity of the pins (I'm new to this, so I have no idea what that actually means!).

It would be nice if the issue is this connector board being dodgy - as hopefully that is an easy fix (i.e. get a new, correct board sent out).

Thanks for all your help.
 
Yep that looks quite backwards
 
LemmyBarnett said:
Kujako said:
LemmyBarnett said:
Yeah, mine has that icon on the reverse side - it makes it hard to know which way round it is meant to go as all the instructions look like your image (with the RU mark on the top).

Mine is as attached (flipped) - not sure if this is a mistake, or just the new style of board?
Click to expand...
That sure looks to me like someone soldered the connector on the wrong side... do you have a multi-meter where you can check continuity of the pins? It's not straight through, and from the picture there is simply no way to attach that board so that the correct pins on one side connect to the correct ones on the other.
Click to expand...
I've got a multi-meter coming tomorrow funnily enough - I'll see if I can work out the continuity of the pins (I'm new to this, so I have no idea what that actually means!).
It would be nice if the issue is this connector board being dodgy - as hopefully that is an easy fix (i.e. get a new, correct board sent out).

Thanks for all your help.
Click to expand...
Let us know when you get the multimeter. There should be a setting on it that looks like wifi icon. When set to it, if the probes touch it should beep. This is used to check if two points on a circuit are connected without resistance. I don't know off hand what the pin mapping is for the board, but someone else may. Worse case, we can compare our two boards. But the picture you show definitely looks like it's upside down... weird. I do know that installing the bridge board backwards, is a common issue. It must be the right way around for it to work. Because yours looks like it was assembled upside down, that seems like a likely culprit.
 
I've emailed @CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES to see if they think it is wrong - certainly looks wrong to me!

I just assumed that the newest batch of boards might look like this now, but you guys spotting it too has made me suspicious (and hopefull!).
 
Kujako said:
That sure looks to me like someone soldered the connector on the wrong side...
Click to expand...
It looks exactly like that. It was reverse mounted. Sorry for that. Are you able to desolder it yourself? If not I'll send you one.
 
Darksoft said:
Kujako said:
That sure looks to me like someone soldered the connector on the wrong side...
Click to expand...
It looks exactly like that. It was reverse mounted. Sorry for that. Are you able to desolder it yourself? If not I'll send you one.
Click to expand...
My soldering skills are VERY basic (as in "I got my first ever soldering iron yesterday" basic) - if you could send me one that would be amazing!
 
LemmyBarnett said:
Aldo is shipping me a correct one on Monday :D
Click to expand...
Very cool. I would try an unencrypted rom first, just in case you still have issues with the Setup1 and Setup2 pins as I did. And be sure to fully reflash with the correct bridge board.

Edit: And let us know how it goes, I feel strangely emotionally invested now...
 
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Interesting issue. I picked up a CPS2 kit from SaveYourGames as well just a couple days ago. Thankfully I don't have this reverse issue.
YEPNbEL.png
UFPQvRD.png
 
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That was the first thing I noticed about the pictures...the lack of the RU mark and no traces on the top side of the bridge board. Glad you got it sorted out.
 
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