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TerakRall

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Hi all - I posted last summer with a New Net City cab that wouldn't give me an image. After a bunch of troubleshooting I swapped the chassis (a PD1843) for one from Yaton and it worked great for a year. A few weeks ago it stopped giving an image. I sent the chassis to PNL who told me the flyback was dead, and sold me a tested working replacement (PD2367).

When I first powered on the cab, my test PCB (Tekken 3) worked but had a very washed out image. The second time I powered it on, there was severe pincushioning and the remote board stopped working. The third time, there were two loud pops/snaps and there was no image any more. John at PNL had me take photos of the chassis and my wiring, and everything looked good. He then had me power up the cab with no game board, and there was purple neck glow with some arcing inside, and the usual "No Signal" didn't display on the screen. PNL said this meant the tube was dead.

Is this definitely the case, and is there any reason I should hang on to hope and keep the tube, or should I start looking for a replacement and disposing/recycling the dead tube?
 

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The tube is not salvageable once the neck is cracked. I feel that 27inch flat monitors are not too hard to find, so you can potentially do a tube swap.
 
The tube is not salvageable once the neck is cracked. I feel that 27inch flat monitors are not too hard to find, so you can potentially do a tube swap.
So would you say I should be looking to recycle/dispose of it? Would it be of value to anyone?
 
Oh wow, that's some bad luck. The actual tube is worthless, but everything else should be salvaged. Frame, yoke ring set, yoke, degauss coil and dag wire.
 
The tube is not salvageable once the neck is cracked. I feel that 27inch flat monitors are not too hard to find, so you can potentially do a tube swap.
So would you say I should be looking to recycle/dispose of it? Would it be of value to anyone?
The tube is junk. It's not worth anything once the neck is cracked or broken. Throw it out.

Like nem said you can salvage everything else and potentially use it for a replacement 27inch tube
 
Ok. Never done it before but I just watched a YouTube video - just unscrew the ring next to where the neckboard connects and pull it right off? Anything else need to be done?
 
This comes down to "how exactly did the tube neck in the first place?". It's possible a short somewhere in the chassis pcb or wiring caused the tube (possibly one of the guns) to spike in voltage and neck the tube along with it. It's quite a horrifying situation.
 
This comes down to "how exactly did the tube neck in the first place?". It's possible a short somewhere in the chassis pcb or wiring caused the tube (possibly one of the guns) to spike in voltage and neck the tube along with it. It's quite a horrifying situation.
I'm starting to look into the possibility of a tube swap retaining the chassis. I'm likely going to see if I can send the chassis to Sharp Image to have them test it and make sure nothing is wonky before trying to install it on a new tube.
 
I hope you someday get into chassis repairs on your own. It wasn't really that difficult to get into (at least for me). My first chassis repairs were two K7400s on my twin Time Crisis 2; one fully recapped and both flybacks replaced (successful repair but sadly the issue ended up being the tubes). Also managed to recap two Toei TC-L292s from Yaton but haven't tested the results. It can be a time consuming process I will admit.

Also in a thread I made, I am considering tube swapping the original tubes on my Time Crisis 2 for two Toshiba flat 27" CRTs (which nobody has responded if a K7400 can be used with a flat tube or not even if yoke swapped).
 
I hope you someday get into chassis repairs on your own. It wasn't really that difficult to get into (at least for me).
If I had more free time and wasn't dealing with such rare equipment I might - as is, I know how hard the Toshiba chassis are to find and wouldn't want to screw something up because of an amateur mistake.
 
Another question - is there any reason putting a PD2367 into the cab when I originally had a PD1843 would have posed a problem? Everything I've said suggests that they're interchangeable but I want to make sure. Since I'm now considering a yoke/chassis swap to a new tube I want to make totally sure the chassis and yoke are compatible.
 
Another question - is there any reason putting a PD2367 into the cab when I originally had a PD1843 would have posed a problem? Everything I've said suggests that they're interchangeable but I want to make sure. Since I'm now considering a yoke/chassis swap to a new tube I want to make totally sure the chassis and yoke are compatible.
The only way to know for sure is to measure the resistance and inductance yourself using an ESR meter, or if you're lucky maybe this stuff is already documented on the Arcade Otaku page.
 
Or here:

Yoke and tube specs for monitors

They're both 0.300mH (or close to it), so perfectly compatible with each other.

I would definitely double check that chassis.

which nobody has responded if a K7400 can be used with a flat tube or not even if yoke swapped
I would be surprised if anyone has tried that combination. I don't see any reason why it couldn't work. As long as the neck connector is the same, it will technically work. Will the picture look any good is a different matter entirely. What's the original tube on the K7400?
 
Or here:

Yoke and tube specs for monitors

They're both 0.300mH (or close to it), so perfectly compatible with each other.

I would definitely double check that chassis.

which nobody has responded if a K7400 can be used with a flat tube or not even if yoke swapped
I would be surprised if anyone has tried that combination. I don't see any reason why it couldn't work. As long as the neck connector is the same, it will technically work. Will the picture look any good is a different matter entirely. What's the original tube on the K7400?
They used Zenith curved tubes (which are known for their awful build quality with the electron guns). The picture is most likely going to look better anyway since those Toshiba flat 27" CRTs are probably a better build quality anyway. I also verified the neck connector is the same at least from reading the manual of the TVs I am getting.

At the same arcade my Time Crisis 2 is located, we also have a House of the Dead 1 with a MS9 chassis/Toshiba tube combination and the electron guns on that tube are still going strong.
 
It's perfectly possible the Zenith yoke won't play nice with the flat tube, but it's worth trying at least. You can always revert back.
 
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