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Varga_Wasperine

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I seeking advice on how to properly get my Zoids Infinity System 246s working/wired properly for my desired setup.

I have 3 units, 1 Infinity, 2 Infinity EX Plus.
All 3 have their HDDs intact, does not look like they were tampered.
All have their respective dongles.

For my setup I figured it would be be best/easiest to power them via a JAMMA B board and these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F1YQDBA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F1YQ6SU

I also put an order for this board, to convert the video to a modern format.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LN18HX

This says that audio is handled by the 4 pins.
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Namco_System_246/256#Stereo_Audio
If this is the case, I'm assuming I could wire those pins to RCA connections and hook them up to a reverse HDMI audio extractor.

I'd be using the PS2 ports for controls, but connecting a RetroPad32 to allow a Saturn Twin Stick as the controls.
http://www.brunofreitas.com/node/84
I feel they'd be as faithful as I can get to the look/feel of the original controls.
https://64.media.tumblr.com/2086633ce01fbaee9e0be681022e3b18/tumblr_ob2vb5nkgR1rx2ovqo3_1280.jpg
To my knowledge, there's no other controls on the arcade.

From what I'm understanding, this game had online play (via a local router/modem) as well as VS play to the partner cabinet.
Is there any equipment that I would need in order to make this work? Or is it simply just connecting them together via ethernet cable/network switch?
Since 2 units are of the same update, I plan on linking them up for VS play. 2 units came with network adapters.

This page says "Button configuration is not standard JVS, Coin Meter 1 must be wired on JVS harness to function"
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Namco_System_246/256
How would I go about doing this? Especially since I plan on going through Jamma.
Other than that JVS comment, I haven't seen any evidence of attempted setups.

I own the cabinet user manual and the game upgrade instructions (Infinity -> EX/EX+), but of course it's all in Japanese, I plan on scanning them soon to pass onto a translator.

My ultimate plan is to recreate the original cabinet in a smaller, more portable form.
Is there anything in this plan that might not work as expected?

I did a test powering of the system via a cheaper used power supply and jamma cables.
The warning light on the jamma board was blinking and the 246's fan turned on, also a green light under the controller ports to the right turned on. After a few minutes I believe I hear the HDD power on, but nothing else happens.
I could not get any video out of the VGA ports, nor any audio from the RCA jacks. I tried adjusting the -5volt nob, but all that did was change the blinking speed of the warning light and 246 fan.
I'm assuming maybe this power supply has an issue?

The pars from Amazon mentioned above should be arriving next week. Hopefully a more successful test.
 
There's a lot to unpack here...
For my setup I figured it would be be best/easiest to power them via a JAMMA B board and these:
That's fine, depending on your setup you could forego the JAMMA IO board altogether and wire directly to the power connector, but I don't know what your setup is so maybe JAMMA is easier for you ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

if you're building a custom cab for various games, this is probably the best option, if you're trying to just build a dedicated zoids thing then maybe not.


I also put an order for this board, to convert the video to a modern format.
unless you're working with a display that ONLY supports HDMI this is a waste of money IMO. System 2x6 and Zoids in particular support VGA resolution, which will run on nearly any modern display with a DVI-I or VGA input. So just plug it in.

If you really want upscaled video an OSSC is going to be a much better option.


This says that audio is handled by the 4 pins.
wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Namco_System_246/256#Stereo_Audio
If this is the case, I'm assuming I could wire those pins to RCA connections and hook them up to a reverse HDMI audio extractor.
the System 2x6 also offers audio output from RCA connectors right on the front of it... just use those no custom wiring required.

And if you're dead set on HDMI then again the OSSC will take those as inputs and merge them into the HDMI signal.


I'd be using the PS2 ports for controls, but connecting a RetroPad32 to allow a Saturn Twin Stick as the controls.
brunofreitas.com/node/84
I feel they'd be as faithful as I can get to the look/feel of the original controls.
64.media.tumblr.com/2086633ce0…vb5nkgR1rx2ovqo3_1280.jpg
To my knowledge, there's no other controls on the arcade.
I'm highly skeptical that this will work.
First, not all games support the controller ports on the System 2x6, you'll probably want to verify if Zoids is one of them. Second, the Saturn Twin Sticks use a different communication protocol than a normal Saturn pad, so even if the System 2x6 PS2 ports DO work for Zoids there's a high probably that the Saturn Twin Sticks WONT work with the RetroPad32, and if they do there's also a high probably that they wont be mapped properly for Zoids.

After all that I'm curious why you're even bothering with the JAMMA IO if you're not planning on using it for controls... that's like 80% of the reason you'd want to use that IO.

Personally if you want to use a Saturn Twin Stick that's fine, but I'd recommend modifying it to add a pin header that plugs into the ribon cable connector on the side of the 2x6, this is a much more direct way to tie everything together and would probably only cost you about $5 in parts (Twin Stick notwithstanding)



From what I'm understanding, this game had online play (via a local router/modem) as well as VS play to the partner cabinet.
Is there any equipment that I would need in order to make this work? Or is it simply just connecting them together via ethernet cable/network switch?
Since 2 units are of the same update, I plan on linking them up for VS play. 2 units came with network adapters.
The Ethernet port for networking on the System 2x6 was optional, so you'll need to verify that your units have them equipped or if not hunt down those parts to add them.

Beyond that networking them together is similar to networking PCs together. you'll want a network switch and some Ethernet cables.

This page says "Button configuration is not standard JVS, Coin Meter 1 must be wired on JVS harness to function"
wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Namco_System_246/256
How would I go about doing this? Especially since I plan on going through Jamma.
Some games need to register that there is a coin meter hooked up before they'll allow you to play, this is easily spoofed by taking 5V and passing it through a resistor to the coin meter pin to simulate that a coin meter is attached.

the JVS comment may imply that this game only supports JVS style controls, if that's the case then you wont be able to use the JAMMA IO nor will you be able to use the digital port that I mentioned earlier and you'll have to hunt down some appropriate JVS IO boards and wire everything through that. So you may want to confirm whether or not these games require JVS IO for controls.


I own the cabinet user manual and the game upgrade instructions (Infinity -> EX/EX+), but of course it's all in Japanese, I plan on scanning them soon to pass onto a translator.
Scan the wiring diagrams to start. 90% of the useful info in those manuals is in the diagrams and most of the time it doesn't need to be translated. the bulk of the manuals is just maintenance schedules (irrelevant to you), how to install the machine once you've received one from the factory (irrelevant to you), what all the test menu options are (most of them are self-explanatory so again largely irrelevant).

Answers to the Playstation controller ports and JVS IO are likely within the manual... if it doesn't mention using the controller ports, they probably aren't supported. and if the original cabs were wired using a JVS IO board, then it likely IS required.
 
That's fine, depending on your setup you could forego the JAMMA IO board altogether and wire directly to the power connector, but I don't know what your setup is so maybe JAMMA is easier for you ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

if you're building a custom cab for various games, this is probably the best option, if you're trying to just build a dedicated zoids thing then maybe not.
Having zero experience, I felt Jamma would be easier, as most of it would be plugnplay.
Yes the plan is to just be a dedicated Zoids cab.
I didnt take directly wiring into consideration, that might be a way to simplify some of this project. :huh:

unless you're working with a display that ONLY supports HDMI this is a waste of money IMO. System 2x6 and Zoids in particular support VGA resolution, which will run on nearly any modern display with a DVI-I or VGA input. So just plug it in.

If you really want upscaled video an OSSC is going to be a much better option.
The plan in mind was to get a cheap lcd kit screen, super light weight. A brief search shows the majority only having HDMI.

the System 2x6 also offers audio output from RCA connectors right on the front of it... just use those no custom wiring required.

And if you're dead set on HDMI then again the OSSC will take those as inputs and merge them into the HDMI signal.
Yes I'm aware of the RCA audio on the front, it was my original intention to pull audio from there, plugged into an amp/speakers.
The reason I mentioned the Jamma audio pins was a hypothesis due to not getting any video/audio when powering on the 246.

I'm highly skeptical that this will work.
First, not all games support the controller ports on the System 2x6, you'll probably want to verify if Zoids is one of them. Second, the Saturn Twin Sticks use a different communication protocol than a normal Saturn pad, so even if the System 2x6 PS2 ports DO work for Zoids there's a high probably that the Saturn Twin Sticks WONT work with the RetroPad32, and if they do there's also a high probably that they wont be mapped properly for Zoids.
The RetroPad32 can be programmed to remap controller inputs to other controller outputs. Zoids Infinity controls similar to Virtual-On, I was able to test this via the PS2 port.

The Ethernet port for networking on the System 2x6 was optional, so you'll need to verify that your units have them equipped or if not hunt down those parts to add them.

Beyond that networking them together is similar to networking PCs together. you'll want a network switch and some Ethernet cables.
2 units came with the Ethernet port that connects to the left side internal USB connection. Good to know they'd connect as suspected.

the JVS comment may imply that this game only supports JVS style controls, if that's the case then you wont be able to use the JAMMA IO nor will you be able to use the digital port that I mentioned earlier and you'll have to hunt down some appropriate JVS IO boards and wire everything through that. So you may want to confirm whether or not these games require JVS IO for controls.
One of the reasons I was attempting to work this via Jamma is due to the vagueness of information I was finding in regards to specific JVS equipment.
I see a variety of boards on ebay, way pricier than what the Jamma boards cost me.
Is there 3rd party board made by someone or will I have to rely on whatever old boards are available on the market?
Either way, it seems that there's different versions of the board. If JVS is necessary, which one would be best?

Some games need to register that there is a coin meter hooked up before they'll allow you to play, this is easily spoofed by taking 5V and passing it through a resistor to the coin meter pin to simulate that a coin meter is attached.
I'll give that a shot once I get the unit to fully boot up.


Answers to the Playstation controller ports and JVS IO are likely within the manual... if it doesn't mention using the controller ports, they probably aren't supported. and if the original cabs were wired using a JVS IO board, then it likely IS required.
This diagram came with the upgrade instructions. I'll give the manual a look over to see if the PS2 ports might be mentioned anywhere.
 

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The plan in mind was to get a cheap lcd kit screen, super light weight. A brief search shows the majority only having HDMI.
Looking at the PCB you specced out to do the HDMI conversion it's not going to do you any favors since it's designed to simply "upscale to 31K" which is what the System 2x6 is already outputting, so I'd reiterate that your best bet will be to source a display that includes a VGA port, or use an OSSC if you feel you really must have HDMI or want it upscaled to HD.



The RetroPad32 can be programmed to remap controller inputs to other controller outputs. Zoids Infinity controls similar to Virtual-On, I was able to test this via the PS2 port.
What did you test? did you test Twin Sticks working with the RetroPad or did you test the PS2 ports working with the Zoids on the System 2x6?


One of the reasons I was attempting to work this via Jamma is due to the vagueness of information I was finding in regards to specific JVS equipment.
I see a variety of boards on ebay, way pricier than what the Jamma boards cost me.
Is there 3rd party board made by someone or will I have to rely on whatever old boards are available on the market?
Either way, it seems that there's different versions of the board. If JVS is necessary, which one would be best?
Looking at the diagram you posted this game is setup to use JVS controls, NOT JAMMA (which means it's also not using the Digital Control port on the side since that's what the JAMMA IO uses). It's possible controls still work through that port but the original cabs shipped with JVS.

unfortunately the diagram doesn't specify which JVS IO board it uses, but it looks like it's equipped with a serial port to run some card readers. which could be another problem as some game that used card readers wont run without them. the model number of the card readers and JVS IO board may be listed in the part number section of the manual. (though in my Experience Namco is pretty terrible about this so it might not be there either)

There are many models of JVS IO boards and typically when they're hooked up to an arcade board they will "report" their capabilities to the game PCB such as ("I support 2 players with 6 buttons each" or "I h ave 8 analog ports and 32 outputs" etc.). the game can then compare the JVSIO's capabilities with what it requires to determine if it should boot or not.

So what JVS IO you need depends heavily on the game, and some games are even designed to say "I don't boot unless the JVS IO reports this specific model number:XXXXXXX" in which case it only works with 1 specific JVS IO board.

the Sega JVS IOs are pretty common and you can usually pick one up for around $100, anything else tends to be hard to find or very expensive (or both).

Typically if your JVS IO is the problem though it will report an IO problem on the screen.

Your first step should be getting these things to boot. When you power on do you hear the chimes? there should be 6 or 7 chimes played through the audio output when you first power on that confirms everything is working properly. if you hear less chimes that's a problem. this is explained in the system 2x6 wiki you linked to earlier.
 
Looking at the PCB you specced out to do the HDMI conversion it's not going to do you any favors since it's designed to simply "upscale to 31K" which is what the System 2x6 is already outputting, so I'd reiterate that your best bet will be to source a display that includes a VGA port, or use an OSSC if you feel you really must have HDMI or want it upscaled to HD.
Even though I'm putting a lot of work into this project, I don't plan on going balls to the wall with video quality. The game is PS2 graphics, I'm not willing to spend like $200 per unit (for the OSSC), especially if that small board is $50.
Though if it comes to just usIng VGA then I guess I'll stick with that. The other reason for that small board is that I heard some arcade PCBs output a different version of VGA that TVs wouldn't understand, that small board was to solve that problem.


What did you test? did you test Twin Sticks working with the RetroPad or did you test the PS2 ports working with the Zoids on the System 2x6?
My Twin Sticks are currently still stuck in Japan, should hopefully ship this week. I tested a Saturn controller through the RetroPad (programmed appropriately), connected to a PS2 console playing the Zoids Infinity home port.

Looking at the diagram you posted this game is setup to use JVS controls, NOT JAMMA (which means it's also not using the Digital Control port on the side since that's what the JAMMA IO uses). It's possible controls still work through that port but the original cabs shipped with JVS.
Yes I noticed that, I received the diagram AFTER getting the 246s, so my Jamma plan was already in motion from original research. Was kinda hoping Jamma/PS2 ports would actually work, as to avoid custom wiring/finding the correct JVS board - in the case that you mentioned a specific one might be required.

So what JVS IO you need depends heavily on the game, and some games are even designed to say "I don't boot unless the JVS IO reports this specific model number:XXXXXXX" in which case it only works with 1 specific JVS IO board.
This photo help? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-JhoKih6LGvvRfbUxmqGVVteCVNrwsSx/view?usp=sharing

but it looks like it's equipped with a serial port to run some card readers. which could be another problem as some game that used card readers wont run without them. the model number of the card readers and JVS IO board may be listed in the part number section of the manual. (though in my Experience Namco is pretty terrible about this so it might not be there either)
This is the card reader from the cab https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Jsg-JrEeZ40hB7xT90ydCARLLOfGQQ0/view?usp=sharing
If required for boot, would there be a way to bypass/clone it? I have 1 on hand, there's another for sale, but of course I'd be 1 short.

Too add to the information pool, here's one of the original cab joysticks. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-GSwXxxT4kfQwuIt_YGwHRtntBrAWJza/view?usp=sharing


Your first step should be getting these things to boot. When you power on do you hear the chimes? there should be 6 or 7 chimes played through the audio output when you first power on that confirms everything is working properly. if you hear less chimes that's a problem. this is explained in the system 2x6 wiki you linked to earlier.
The Amazon parts I linked arrived today (way earlier than expected). Decided to give them a shot and see if my original idea was correct via the Jamma board.
When connected to power, the warning light on the Jamma board blinks, the 246 powers on, the fan is spinning and LED1 is lit. After maybe 30sec i hear the HDD initialize (or at least try to), the fan slows a little and LED2 blinks.
There is no video output from either VGA port, no chimes from the RCA audio jacks. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-KiESwMY8nrqGRiuf3l2YvkoST2TXcDY/view?usp=sharing
The sound near the end of the video is a 3D printer in the background, not from the 246.
 
Try a different power supply, a 200watt power pro. Those little power supplies don’t usually supply enough juice to properly power up the system consistently.(at least from my experience)
 
Even though I'm putting a lot of work into this project, I don't plan on going balls to the wall with video quality. The game is PS2 graphics, I'm not willing to spend like $200 per unit (for the OSSC), especially if that small board is $50.
Though if it comes to just usIng VGA then I guess I'll stick with that. The other reason for that small board is that I heard some arcade PCBs output a different version of VGA that TVs wouldn't understand, that small board was to solve that problem.
it's not about video quality so much as lag and video preservation. those cheap converters WORSEN the video signal and tend to add a not insignificant amount of lag.

Also the OSSC can be had a lot cheaper these days: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Best to stick with VGA to start and just work with that. if the display supports 640x480 it shouldn't have any problem with the native signal from the system 2x6


My Twin Sticks are currently still stuck in Japan, should hopefully ship this week. I tested a Saturn controller through the RetroPad (programmed appropriately), connected to a PS2 console playing the Zoids Infinity home port.
Then I don't think you understood the point I was trying to make earlier. the Twin sticks do NOT get recognized by the console like a normal game pad, it sends a different communication code that the console interprets differently. so unless the RetroPad is designed SPECIFICALLY to work with the Twin Stick's special protocol it wont work. There are a lot of Saturn controller adapters that DONT work with the Twin Sticks for this reason.

This still doesn't solve the issue of whether or not you can use the controller ports on the System 2x6 and there's still a good chance that you wont be able to.


so my Jamma plan was already in motion from original research. Was kinda hoping Jamma/PS2 ports would actually work, as to avoid custom wiring/finding the correct JVS board - in the case that you mentioned a specific one might be required.
no offense but your JAMMA plan seemed very poorly thought out. the whole point of JAMMA is that Power, Video, Audio, and Controls are all on the same connector. but you weren't going to use JAMMA for Video, Audio or Controls... which means you were going to use it JUST for power. It seemed like a lot of extra money spent on a adapters and harnesses for no real benefit. Wiring straight to the power connector on the System 2x6 is a lot cleaner, cheaper, simpler, and more reliable than passing it through a cheap Chinese JAMMA harness and the JAMMA IO. IMO if you've already bought the JAMMA IO you should probably just resell it and move on at this point.


This photo help? drive.google.com/file/d/1-JhoK…CVNrwsSx/view?usp=sharing
Yes. That identifies the JVS IO as a Taito K91X1007A JVS IO. this looks like an earlier revision of the IO boards used in the Vewlix Cabinets. A quick google search turned up some for sale on Yahoo Auctions.

if the game does indeed need a JVS IO then it will likely give you an IO board error on boot if you've got the wrong one (or none) installed. Chances are you'll need one of these to wire the controls INSTEAD of your JAMMA IO or your PS2 converters.


This is the card reader from the cab drive.google.com/file/d/1-Jsg-…LLOfGQQ0/view?usp=sharing
If required for boot, would there be a way to bypass/clone it? I have 1 on hand, there's another for sale, but of course I'd be 1 short.
If it's required you'll likely get a card error on boot, sometimes you can go into test mode and and disable it, it's highly game dependent though. As for spoofing the cards, nearly every game uses different protocols so you'd have to develop a custom solution specific to this game. Some information on this: NAOMI 2/Chihiro/Triforce Card Reader Emulator (Initial D3/WMMT/Mario Kart/F-ZERO AX)


Too add to the information pool, here's one of the original cab joysticks. drive.google.com/file/d/1-GSwX…tBrAWJza/view?usp=sharing
Kind of irrelevant, as far as the system 2x6 is concerned it's just 12 buttons. FWIW I do see original sticks for sale on Yahoo auctions on occasion. I think I might actually have a set somewhere as I tend to buy weird controls when the opportunity present itself.


When connected to power, the warning light on the Jamma board blinks, the 246 powers on, the fan is spinning and LED1 is lit. After maybe 30sec i hear the HDD initialize (or at least try to), the fan slows a little and LED2 blinks.
There is no video output from either VGA port, no chimes from the RCA audio jacks. drive.google.com/file/d/1-KiES…ST2TXcDY/view?usp=sharing
first I would recommend unplugging the PS2 controller adapter, that could be causing problems and we know 100% of games work without it so just leave that out of the equation for now.

Second you need to double check your dip switches

  • 1 off=Game mode, on=test mode
  • 2 off=3v video output, on=0.7v video output
  • 3 off=15khz video, on=31khz video
  • 4 off=composite sync, on=h/v sync
so you want
1 - off
2 - on
3 - on
4 - on

on some 2x6 models the dip-switches are backwards and upside down from what you'd expect so make sure you've got the numbers and the on-off directions correct.

Third, verify your voltages. with everything hooked up put a multi-meter on system 2x6's power connector and make sure that the +5V wire is between 5.00V and 5.09V Reboot after adjusting.

Does your harness have more than 1 ground wire? because you should be using one for every voltage wire you've got. Realistically you should be running 2x 5V wires 1x 12V wire and 3x Ground wires you might also want to make sure that you're getting good 12V at the system 2x6, this is used to spin up the hard drive and the fans, so if the fan speed is fluctuating that's a good indication that you're getting a "Brown out" and either your wires are too thin, or your PSU isn't up to the task.
 
a cheap Chinese JAMMA harness
Why are you complaining about a bootleg Jamma harness if your recommendation is to buy a bootleg OSSC?
unless the RetroPad is designed SPECIFICALLY to work with the Twin Stick's special protocol
A local friend has his own Retropad and twin sticks, will be testing for me later tonight.

This still doesn't solve the issue of whether or not you can use the controller ports on the System 2x6 and there's still a good chance that you wont be able to.
Gotta get the system to boot properly before that question can be answered.

no offense but your JAMMA plan seemed very poorly thought out. the whole point of JAMMA is that Power, Video, Audio, and Controls are all on the same connector.
If it turns out that the Retropad DOESN'T detect the TwinSticks, I could gut the sticks and use the Jamma cable connections, if Jamma DOES end up working.
Though sure at that point I could connect the controller directly to the PCB, but finding the correct connector might be a bigger annoyance without destroying 3 cables.

If it's required you'll likely get a card error on boot, sometimes you can go into test mode and and disable it, it's highly game dependent though.
If I'm able to disable it, that would be great, no reason to have it in the build if it's not getting used.

Second you need to double check your dip switches
Tried every possible dip switch combination, nothing different happens.

fan speed is fluctuating
Never said it was fluctuating, it starts at one speed, then slows to a different speed as I hear the HDD initialize (but not start spinning).

Try a different power supply, a 200watt power pro. Those little power supplies don’t usually supply enough juice to properly power up the system consistently.(at least from my experience)
A friend suggested THAT may be why it's not booting.
Would this do the job? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1PRE6A/ I was looking at that due to the slimmer profile and possibly weighing less than PC power supply looking units.
My concern is that it's not labeled the same as the previous power supply, I just see 3V+ 3V- G N L.
 
Why are you complaining about a bootleg Jamma harness if your recommendation is to buy a bootleg OSSC?
it has nothing to do with being "bootleg", in-fact, neither of them are bootleg since both are essentially open source. The vast majority of the JAMMA harnesses out there are made in China and made very cheaply using thing contacts and thin wires, I've seen more than a few problems with them not being able to delivery power reliably because of the low quality components.

the Chinese made OSSC have proven to be every bit as good as any other OSSC, but a big par of that is the quality is essentially built into the spec on the OSSC where it's not on the JAMMA harness.


Though sure at that point I could connect the controller directly to the PCB, but finding the correct connector might be a bigger annoyance without destroying 3 cables.
it's a bog standard 20-pin ribbon cable: https://www.amazon.com/BLS-2-54mm-2...rds=20+pin+ribbon+cable&qid=1598526799&sr=8-4
you could by it in whatever length you need and the install a matching header in the Twin-Stick without actually gutting it.


Never said it was fluctuating, it starts at one speed, then slows to a different speed as I hear the HDD initialize (but not start spinning).
The fan is not speed controlled. maybe "fluctuating" isn't right term but if it's changing speed it's due to a voltage drop, and not the system deciding to slow it down. if you're getting a voltage drop it's either a under-powered PSU, power wires are too thin, or perhaps even the HDD is dead and produces a high load when attempting to spin.


Have you tried the 3 steps I suggested to get it running?
 
Have you tried the 3 steps I suggested to get it running?
There was no difference between booting with/without the PS2 controller connected.

The Retropad DOES work with the Saturn Twin stick, it's a regular Saturn controller with a different button layout. Software can remap that easily.
Playtested on my PS2 console running the Zoids Infinity home port.

Second you need to double check your dip switches
No change, I'm leading to the assumption there's a lack of power for proper boot, OR the system doesnt go into full boot if it doesnt detect the JVS IO board/card reader.

Does your harness have more than 1 ground wire? because you should be using one for every voltage wire you've got. Realistically you should be running 2x 5V wires 1x 12V wire and 3x Ground wires you might also want to make sure that you're getting good 12V at the system 2x6, this is used to spin up the hard drive and the fans, so if the fan speed is fluctuating that's a good indication that you're getting a "Brown out" and either your wires are too thin, or your PSU isn't up to the task.
Here's the harness I have.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-TyY6qEAWJkHFmp10L11r_UNw6E1bSNl/view?usp=sharing
 
Hopefully if this IS a lack of power, I can eventually get this project moving again.

Try a different power supply, a 200watt power pro. Those little power supplies don’t usually supply enough juice to properly power up the system consistently.(at least from my experience)
Does anyone have experience with this suggestion?



Does your harness have more than 1 ground wire? because you should be using one for every voltage wire you've got. Realistically you should be running 2x 5V wires 1x 12V wire and 3x Ground wires you might also want to make sure that you're getting good 12V at the system 2x6, this is used to spin up the hard drive and the fans, so if the fan speed is fluctuating that's a good indication that you're getting a "Brown out" and either your wires are too thin, or your PSU isn't up to the task.
If my current harness doesn't have the correct wiring, is there one that you'd recommend?
 
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