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There may be one expectation of mine that's broken while probing around the board. Each socket for the various rom slots should be bridged, correct? As in, if you probe the same socket on 2 different slots in the same cluster they buzz, right? There's just a handful of pins that aren't buzzing for continuity for me and I'm wondering if that's an issue or if I just don't understand what's supposed to be connected or not.
 
Not necessarily though many lines are. Power, ground, many address lines, output enables usually are.

if you have another board it’s an easy way to compare. You can look visually on the top and underside to see if a trace joins them too.

If you don’t have a spare and can’t see the traces visually for whatever reason we do have a full wiring schematic here CPS2 B-Board Complete Wiring List though I haven’t seen if it’s easy to read or not.
 
Just had this issue helping a buddy get his CPS2 multi going. We went through two working B-Boards. Jumper settings all verified with a meter, rev 7 boards, G-PAL. As it turns out, it was the microSD card that was the culprit. Don't rule that out. In both cases, using his microSD cards, the error on the LCD displayed showed "XXX Init".

Luckily, I had a microSD card in my laptop that I brought along with me: a cheap Kingston Data Traveler 8GB card. Both of my buddy's cards, a Samsung 128GB and a Sandisk 32GB didn't work though were recognized in Windows 10 just fine. The next day, he went and picked up another microSD card to get his CPS2 Multi going. He had planned on installing an Infinikey on the other B-board we killed anyway.
 
Just had this issue helping a buddy get his CPS2 multi going. We went through two working B-Boards. Jumper settings all verified with a meter, rev 7 boards, G-PAL. As it turns out, it was the microSD card that was the culprit. Don't rule that out. In both cases, using his microSD cards, the error on the LCD displayed showed "XXX Init".
I can give that a try. I've tried two cards but another couldn't hurt. Mine are off brandy 32gb cards. They passed each of the flashing tests. Also, I've gotten the unencrypted rom set to run before with mixed results. Specifically, slow downs to an abysmal frame rate and no sound.

Do you have an SD card you would recommend?


if you have another board it’s an easy way to compare. You can look visually on the top and underside to see if a trace joins them too.
I don't have another board unfortunately, this was my first venture into arcade hardware. Visually, the traces aren't the best, but I've verified each one that looks questionable with a multimeter.
 
Sd card that uses SDHC not sdxc
 
Sd card that uses SDHC not sdxc
Yup. Mine's SDHC. I'd be open to another though.

Just tried reconnecting everything, can't even launch the suicide test... Feeling kind of defeated at the moment. ||
 
Do you have an SD card you would recommend?
This is the actual one I used that worked. It is 16GB and not 8GB as I mentioned earlier.

Kingston.jpg
 
Got the new SD card today, same result. Tried with my 4GB card that I've had for a while, same result. I can't even get past a green screen now... At the very least I could boot some games to a degraded state and run the suicide test suite to see that things were bad, but now it's just a solid color.

Continuity tests around the board are fine. I haven't come across a trace that doesn't work yet despite them not looking so great. Continuity tests between the pins coming off the Darksoft board for key writing show continuity all the way to the B board using Arthrimus' QSB, no issues there. I've pulled out and checked the pins countless times on the Darksoft board and the A/B combo. No issues as far as I can tell. Same behavior with regular and unencrypted rom sets. Cleaned these things more than I care to admit.

I feel like there's not much more I can do myself. If there's anybody in the Seattle area willing to take a shot at it then feel free to contact me. I would love some help but it feels like I should just look into a new B board. I appreciate all the help everyone's been trying to give me but the situation seems to only decline. Sorry.
 
If I missed this before, did you confirm that your B-Board worked before you tried the multi installation?
 
Bought from Arcsys101 who claimed it was a suicided board. Not something I can personally confirm or anything given my limited skillset. It isn't the best situation of course but I figured to save a bit of cash on this it would work. I guess I learned my lesson. I did buy a battery to possibly restore it to original working order if the key writing on the Darksoft multi actually works. Something I could try for fun at this point I suppose.
 
It was sold as working with video of another B board working on it. When I originally set up the multi in this B board I was able to boot unencrypted roms without sound which would slow down every so often. I have no reason to believe the A board isn't working.

It only got worse from there unfortunately. I have some videos of when I first got it all set up and was really excited. Lol
 
Next question, did you set the jumper settings on the B-board correctly and tested for continuity with a multimeter?
 
Next question, did you set the jumper settings on the B-board correctly and tested for continuity with a multimeter?
wait I thought those jumpers were not important anymore ? I have no idea why they wouldnt be (since theyre meant to let the B board know what size masks etc to address right ?) but in the newest install guides it does not even touch on the jumper subject
 
jumpers don’t need to change. Thats old info.

So is using suicided boards.

Bought from Arcsys101 who claimed it was a suicided board.
it’s best to start from a 100% working board so you’re not pulling your hair out like this. If you have to use a dead B board the first step is to install an infinikey or burn a Phoenix set and make sure it works.

I wouldn’t put a battery in a b board, even a new one either btw. It’s just a time bomb. Infinikey! That’s “original working order” without risking acid leak.

You could contact @Mitsurugi-w and he could at least test the multi, but if you haven’t seen the B board working it’s a good bet the B is dead.
 
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If you want to shoot me your B-Board, I can check if it is working or not. Send OG roms, multi, and SD cards. You pay for round trip shipping. PM me if you are up for it.
 
The jumpers are untouched, but are correct according to the install guide. Continuity checks are all good on them.

it’s best to start from a 100% working board so you’re not pulling your hair out like this. If you have to use a dead B board the first step is to install an infinikey or burn a Phoenix set and make sure it works.
You could contact @Mitsurugi-w and he could at least test the multi, but if you haven’t seen the B board working it’s a good bet the B is dead.
Yeah, definitely a lesson learned in that regard. Like I said though, the board with multi installed DID work at least in a degraded state. I could load games, and even the test suite. I'm really hoping with all the troubleshooting I've done I didn't damage anything more (especially the multi.)

If you want to shoot me your B-Board, I can check if it is working or not. Send OG roms, multi, and SD cards. You pay for round trip shipping. PM me if you are up for it.
I think that's a good idea but I'd like to try getting a working B board to try this with first. Basically try again from a proper starting point. If possible, having somebody local to Seattle take a look at it would also be ideal. I appreciate it though and if the offer is still open in the future I'll take you up on it.
 
it's a clean b-board of marvel vs capcom dead or suicide , plus the a-board is working test sone xmvssf as seen on the videos i uploaded with sound , since you said that it was not red but blue or green or white in screen is dead cps2 b-board , the mvc1 died on me around 3months in storage and removed the battery before shipping it and packed well

As for time to time while i sold some of the board working to rest them real time to know when shipped is working, aside of some suicided cps2 one's or other pcb's
 
If there's anybody local to Seattle who can take a look at the Multi/B Board I would really appreciate any help. If not, I could probably use some tips on how to most effectively pack and ship this.

Thanks. :)
 
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