CPS2 Darksoft Multi Not Working

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    • CPS2 Darksoft Multi Not Working

      Never had an arcade board before. After swapping in darksoft's cps2 board theres no sound.

      Set up...
      HAS Supergun
      MVC rev 7 pal g used for multi
      Mwp 606 psu
      I've checked each pin and things seem fine. Tried reconnecting everything multiple times.

      And yes I've tried holding down each button on the A board as it boots to try to reset the audio.

      I have a naomi 2 that has sound working through this supergun with the same set up, so I'm sure its an issue somewhere in the c0s2 boards but I honestly don't know where to begin.

      Should I try replacing the super cap on the a board?

      Thanks for your help

      -edit-
      Old romset by the way. Maybe its the roms??

      -edit2-

      Updating original post to keep track of what issues I'm seeing and what I've tried.

      Issues...
      No sound
      Test suite reports sound init was bad.
      Test suite shows correct System Speed but then shows it's value gradually decreasing over time. Voltage remains steady at 5V on Jamma edge though
      Green screen on booting an encrypted game.

      Tried...
      I've tried cleaning everything with 99% IPA.
      Probing 5V and Ground on the Jamma edge correctly reports 5V
      Removing and reconnecting A/B/Multi boards repeatedly.
      Checked for bent pins, none appear bent. One set of 2 were bent slightly and I straightened them.
      Tried different rom sets. Decrypted "work" but then slow to a crawl.
      Connected Naomi to HAS supergun, confirmed sound works.
      Double checking solder connections from QSB to key writing pads. Seems good.
      Tool to check flash writing reports fine for both tests.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Foxe ().

    • Are the key writing wires installed on your Multi? If so, use the latest pack from here: archive.org/download/everdrivepack/

      Also, are you using Stereo or Mono sound (over JAMMA). Would be worthwhile checking if there's audio from the RCA jacks, and also that the audio settings for your games are set right.

      Also, try holding down the up button down for a while to see if you get sound. I had it turned all the way to zero once, and my speakers were also down low, so it took a while for me to register there was actual sound playing.
      Multis: CPS-1, CPS-2, CPS-3, F3, S16, ST-V, MVS, AES, M72, Crystal System, G-Net, Naomi, TTX2
      Screens: 2043MD, 20M2MDA, 20L2MD, AR25M31, XR29M31, BL2411PT, BL2700HT
      Devices: Sentinel Gold / Ultracade uVC / JAMMAizer! / Framemeister XRGB-mini
      PCBs: VAPS Profile
    • interestingly, the multi kit game board tester is now showing sound init bad. Prior to today it was showing sound init good. Nevermore the system speed being bad...

      -Edit-
      Worse yet, it's now saying Q Sound ram init is bad...

      Going to clean the entire set up again tomorrow and see if that helps...

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Foxe ().

    • I'll get pictures tomorrow after I clean it all up with some 99% IPA. HAS shows 5.00 give or take .02 at any time on boot up. 12v I check less often, but seemed fine last I checked. I'm going to probe the Jamma edge to double check that the voltmeter on the HAS isn't lying as well. For now... bed...
    • Unfortunately still no luck after cleaning everything again. Booted up the test suite and noticed something interesting. The System Speed Test value seems to continually drop after a certain amount of time with the board on. Bumping up the voltage will bring that number back up but it continues to drop. Could this be a short somewhere?

      Of course the sound init continues to report BAD along with a message saying Errors Found on Game Board. Is this indicative of the problem being on the B board for sure?

      I could really use some help... :(
    • I have tried unencrypted too. No difference. They used to run before with no sound but I get nothing now regardless of the key writing pins. Now it's stuck on a solid screen regardless. Th solder points seem to be making contact, is there a reason you don't think they are? I've reflowed them once.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Foxe ().

    • ekorz wrote:

      Tried different SD cards? Pc or Mac?
      Yup, tried multiple SD cards.

      PC.

      The more concerning issue is the apparent voltage drop over time? The system check tool reports system speed slowing down over time which seems to be a voltage issue. Voltage on the Jamma edge reads a perfect 5.00V though. I have no concerns over the supergun or power supply giving the correct voltage.
    • Maybe this has nothing to do with it...is there a large scratch on the board across a bunch of traces near ROM socket 10? If so, are there any breaks in continuity there?

      Also, are your A&B boards completely seated together? In one of the imgur pics it looks like there is a rather large gap between the two connectors. Is the bridge board all the way seated?

      Some of the pics of the B board itself give me the impression there is a lot of corrosion going on there, and there appear to be a bunch of trace repairs (or maybe just damage), especially around the IC labeled DL-1525. The photos make it look like there are a ton of breaks in the traces to the left of that IC. That B board just might be shot, so I'd move on to trying another one, unfortunately.

      The post was edited 2 times, last by obitus1990 ().

    • obitus1990 wrote:

      Maybe this has nothing to do with it...is there a large scratch on the board across a bunch of traces near ROM socket 10? If so, are there any breaks in continuity there?

      Also, are your A&B boards completely seated together? In one of the imgur pics it looks like there is a rather large gap between the two connectors. Is the bridge board all the way seated?
      I've made sure they're connected pretty well, with or without case. I'll try again to reconnect them.

      I never saw any major scratches while cleaning it but I can of course check again. I'm not sure where to start buzzing for continuity but I can at least walk through each of the traces. Is there something in particular about rom slot 10 I should keep an eye on?

      Also, thanks for responding. I'm pretty new to this so I really appreciate all the help from everyone.
    • There are plenty of other traces I found in your pictures that may have issues. I've attached one group below. Notice how the traces disappear for a couple of millimeters and then reappear. Maybe it's just the photo, but, those look like bad/corroded traces to me.
      Images
      • Qa2By1r.jpg

        294.69 kB, 1,283×1,240, viewed 42 times
    • Buzzing each of those to the other side of the board seems good. I haven't found a trace among the worst looking ones that doesn't buzz. I'm assuming it's just dirt above the solder mask, this board I got was pretty dirty. I'll give those spots some more cleaning and see if it looks better just to be sure.