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Got around to changing the batteries in all my CPS2 boards today.

I wanted to install new battery holders for easy future change, and also replace the batteries that were installed with fresh ones.

Oddly enough, almost all these boards still had their original batteries dated 1993 - 1994 and 1996. None of them had leaked or suicided. That's 27, 26 and 24 year old batteries still functioning. I don't care to change them for suicide reasons, i'd be happy to just let them run in there until they die and then i can reprogram the keys and replace them, but the leaking battery problem is the real reason to change them for me. I've seen the damage it can do.

Anyways, onto the pics.

I got battery holders
DSC_9488.jpg


Batteries (04/2019 date codes)
DSC_9489.jpg


Board before
DSC_9493.jpg



After battery change
DSC_9494.jpg


Here's the old original batteries showing the original date codes! Not a single one had shown any signs of leaking.
DSC_9497.jpg




All done!
 
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did you cut the pin on the back of the battery holder to level it with the board?
 
I am wondering why you (or anyone really) preferred replacement versus the recent battery-less solutions.
 
Those batteries are just as prone to leaking as axial batteries brutha.

Provided you have a programmer, suicide free mod chip, socketed dip pcb, pic chips, is the eay to go. Less expensive than battery plus holder by 80%.
 
You're an Aussie. Lots of great mates there that would have programmed those chips for you.
 
That's what I made for myself.

The PICs are around $1 from AliExpress or $5 if you buy locally from Jaycar, and the PCBs are $3ea for a small order or cheaper if you bulk order. There's your $8.

I'm the same as you, I prefer 100% original however having seen first hand what a leaking battery can do I much prefer a battery-less solution.

You may not be aware, but the older original batteries are much better in terms of livelihood due to there being no ban on chemicals back then such as mercury. That's why they've lasted 30 years in some cases. Modern batteries will be lucky to last 5 or 10 years and are just as prone to leaking if left unattended. It's a ticking time bomb really.

So you kind of have to choose your poison.
 
Incidentally, a basic entry level programmer such as the Mini Pro (TL866) will set you back around $50 and is a worthy addition to your tool box, especially if you're into arcade PCB collecting and playing.

A programmer goes hand in hand with a multimeter and soldering iron for us arcade nuts. Arcades differ to consoles, you need some know how and tools to fully enjoy the hobby.
 
@Murray great job and thanks for the pictures.

I think everyone is piling on about options in place of batteries, but it's too late now!

I respect your reasons for putting in new batteries, I think in 5 years or so, you should consider some other option, but for now, you're rolling authentic!
 
All good @Murray. We are helping you preserve those boards from battery acid damage is all. Do your thing.

If you want to know more about the other methods, we can help you as well. Just ask. Keep the knowledge in the bank for 2025 when hopefully it will be a better world and when you will change out those batteries.
 
I'm happy if you're happy. :)

Not pushing it on you, just giving you all the info so you can digest and make the best informed decision.

Enough talk, go play those babies.
 
I used to use battery sockets also. Problem is your boards are going to suicide long before those batteries die because of the sockets. They suffer the same problem the batteries in your TV remote do. They will oxidize and lose contact. In your remote you just open it and spin the batteries to restore contact. On these pcbs the game will suicide for the same reason. You just won't be able to spin the batteries to fix it
 
I used to use battery sockets also. Problem is your boards are going to suicide long before those batteries die because of the sockets. They suffer the same problem the batteries in your TV remote do. They will oxidize and lose contact. In your remote you just open it and spin the batteries to restore contact. On these pcbs the game will suicide for the same reason. You just won't be able to spin the batteries to fix it
I second this. A number of the boards I’ve had sent in for either key reloading or decrypted ROM installation have had these holders in, and they caused the boards to suicide.

I have 30+ CPS2 boards of my own and I used to be constantly replacing batteries - but even so, I’d still go with axial batteries, soldered in properly, for this very reason.

I’ve now fitted @undamned’s InfiniKey CPS2 mods in all of them.

By all means, stick with what you have now. If/when the time comes, you’d be better looking into InfiniKeys or similar, and doing away with the batteries. You still get to play original Capcom ROMs, but without the ticking time-bomb. Best of both. :)
 
They're just waiting to die until you have company come over.
 
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