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k1701

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Hello everyone,
I have 3 questions to clarify concerning the GPAL FPAL and jumper configuration
I have a REV. 7 B board, X VS SF with a FPAL chip ,was already suicided(through passage of time) when I got it.

1. In the Darksoft prep vid on youtube, the recommended easy PAL configuration is the GPAL. Can I remove the FPAL on my board and install a GPAL from highscoresave.com?

2. I read a comment on the vid, "If you have a F pal and a Rev 5+ board, just pull out Pin 7 and jumper to Pin 9 no need to run a jumper to Cn3-C13"
Just to confirm the PIN 9 is located on the FPAL and do you have to pull out the pin 9 like the pin 7?

3. The Darksoft installation pdf file version 3.2 says to leave the jumpers as is(no soldering),but the video says its needs to be in the certain open closed configuration, My board needs 2 points soldered to match the recommended configuration.
Should I leave it as is or solder the points to match the configuration?

Thanks so much in advance for answering my questions,I really want to take the Darksoft leap, and I really dont want to sacrifice my 3 other boards(GIGAWING,SFA3,HSF2 especially my HSF2 board!)
 
Hello everyone,
I have 3 questions to clarify concerning the GPAL FPAL and jumper configuration
I have a REV. 7 B board, X VS SF with a FPAL chip ,was already suicided(through passage of time) when I got it.

1. In the Darksoft prep vid on youtube, the recommended easy PAL configuration is the GPAL. Can I remove the FPAL on my board and install a GPAL from highscoresave.com?
Yes.
2. I read a comment on the vid, "If you have a F pal and a Rev 5+ board, just pull out Pin 7 and jumper to Pin 9 no need to run a jumper to Cn3-C13"
Just to confirm the PIN 9 is located on the FPAL and do you have to pull out the pin 9 like the pin 7?
That might work. But I recommend to just get a gpal.

3. The Darksoft installation pdf file version 3.2 says to leave the jumpers as is(no soldering),but the video says its needs to be in the certain open closed configuration, My board needs 2 points soldered to match the recommended configuration.
Should I leave it as is or solder the points to match the configuration?
Don't change the jumpers. The pdf is correct and the video is outdated.
 
Everything goat said. Getting gpal is just far easier. It's just a chip that slides into a slot like the roms. Pop out fpal, pop in gpal. Done.
 
Hello everyone,
I have 3 questions to clarify concerning the GPAL FPAL and jumper configuration
I have a REV. 7 B board, X VS SF with a FPAL chip ,was already suicided(through passage of time) when I got it.

1. In the Darksoft prep vid on youtube, the recommended easy PAL configuration is the GPAL. Can I remove the FPAL on my board and install a GPAL from highscoresave.com?
Yes.
2. I read a comment on the vid, "If you have a F pal and a Rev 5+ board, just pull out Pin 7 and jumper to Pin 9 no need to run a jumper to Cn3-C13"
Just to confirm the PIN 9 is located on the FPAL and do you have to pull out the pin 9 like the pin 7?
That might work. But I recommend to just get a gpal.
3. The Darksoft installation pdf file version 3.2 says to leave the jumpers as is(no soldering),but the video says its needs to be in the certain open closed configuration, My board needs 2 points soldered to match the recommended configuration.
Should I leave it as is or solder the points to match the configuration?
Don't change the jumpers. The pdf is correct and the video is outdated.

Thanks alot for the info! I really didnt want to mess too much around with my X vs SF B board,now I don't have too!
Thanks man!!
 
“Already suicided” but was it working before? If you’re not absolutely sure it will be worth installing an infinikey or this or booting it with Phoenix roms. Otherwise when the multi doesn’t work you’ll be pulling out your hair trying to find what’s wrong, when it’s just a busted B board.

Most boards sold as “oh it’s just a dead battery” nowadays are suspect imo since it’s so easy to revive. Best to start with a 100% working board if possible. Nobody cares if you cut out a battery these days.
 
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“Already suicided” but was it working before? If you’re not absolutely sure it will be worth installing an infinikey or this or booting it with Phoenix roms. Otherwise when the multi doesn’t work you’ll be pulling out your hair trying to find what’s wrong, when it’s just a busted B board.

Most boards sold as “oh it’s just a dead battery” nowadays are suspect imo since it’s so easy to revive. Best to start with a 100% working board if possible. Nobody cares if you cut out a battery these days.
Hey ekorz, I sent the B board to a local arcade repair tech, he checked it with his two A boards,he checked the voltage on the battery.He checked everything,(caps, chips,traces) ,he was only getting the blue screen and battery was way below 3.6volts. If I dont get through I could always use the infinikey.Thanks for the advice!
 
Everything goat said. Getting gpal is just far easier. It's just a chip that slides into a slot like the roms. Pop out fpal, pop in gpal. Done.
Hey Foxe, Thanks for the further confirmation.Its appreciated!
 
If I dont get through I could always use the infinikey.Thanks for the advice!
take the advice! ask @Foxe if he wishes he'd just installed a keychip to start his odyssey. It's 10 minutes now vs. hours later, just saying! I would never install a multi on a board that I hadn't verified. Too much hassle.
 
If I dont get through I could always use the infinikey.Thanks for the advice!
take the advice! ask @Foxe if he wishes he'd just installed a keychip to start his odyssey. It's 10 minutes now vs. hours later, just saying! I would never install a multi on a board that I hadn't verified. Too much hassle.
absolutely. Learn from my mistake..
Foxe, l read your forum thread......Will do,I'll hold back on the darksoft until I verify the status of the board.I dont wanna mess up the board,I'll look at infinikey installation, l am certain a solution will present itself,Foxe and Ekorz thanks for the advice!
 
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