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Tops has a Model 3 Jamma adapter for sale here:
https://www.tops-game.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=5321

As Twistedsymphony mentions, you can power the DSB2 from CN12, that's how it's powered on Daytona 2.

As well as the DSB2, SpikeOut and other games such as L.A Machine guns w/no DSB2, Daytona 2 w/DSB2......etc, they use both the front and rear sound channels, CN7 and CN8 on the M3 filterboard.

On the original Blast City SpikeOut config, both CN7 and CN8 go to a larger mixer which is powered by 12v, part number 838-13445. Then the small passive mixer Twistedsymphony mentioned, that small mixer mixes both DSB2 and the output from the large mixer. It's quite a convoluted setup.

That's the way Sega do it, there is some ground hum which I'd love to get rid of one day but the sound levels are correct when you do it this way. If you try to use 2 small passive mixers the sound effects are not at the correct level in relation to the music.

There are obviously other ways to mix the sound, but if there's a solution that simplifies everything that would be awesome.

I've also attached a pic of a home made loom for the sound showing the original config.
 

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I've had a few days now to mull this over, and basically everything in my head points to "If you're running a Model3 you probably shouldn't be trying to run it stand-alone in a JAMMA outfitted cabinet..."

That Tops adapter really makes me wonder how much draw of the 3.3v the Model3 takes... I honestly don't think I can just shove something onto a a JAMMA adapter sized board that either takes from the 12v or 5v rail and converts that to a separate 3.3v rail. Not to mention all the other audio stuff to accommodate all types of Model3 setups.

My takeaway here is that while options exist, it almost seems like you should be modifying the JAMMA cabinet to accommodate the Model3 rather than the other way around. It might just be cheaper(?).

I'm open to ideas for solutions, but due to the lack of having any type of Model3 setup I cannot personally test and verify any adapter I might possibly make. Therefore, I'm going to have to say there is a slim chance I will be making any.
 
There is a lot of 3.3V draw from a Model 3, but using this or a similar adapter is an easy way to wire up everything EXCEPT power.

For instance my ExAMU eXBoard hardware is JAMMA but has it'd own power supply, but because it's JAMMA it's plug in play with any of my cabs that have a JAMMA edge and an AC service port

I would see using Model 3 similarity.. basically I'd have a MeanWell or similar 3.3V PSU or JVS PSU, or a PC PSU that I'd wire up and then everything else is done over JAMMA.

Just because literally 1 power rail doesn't fit the JAMMA standard doesn't mean the rest of it needs to be custom too.
 
I totally agree with Twistedsymphony.

Your project may be a niche product, but I think being able to tap into the Jamma harness for
controls, sound and video is very convenient and saves a lot of hassle making bespoke wiring looms.

If you make provision to connect an ATX, Lindy PSU or similar to the adapter then everything else could be done via Jamma. It would be very convenient to have a solution like that for people with cabinets such as Astro City's etc.
 
I would see using Model 3 similarity.. basically I'd have a MeanWell or similar 3.3V PSU or JVS PSU, or a PC PSU that I'd wire up and then everything else is done over JAMMA.

Just because literally 1 power rail doesn't fit the JAMMA standard doesn't mean the rest of it needs to be custom too.
I'm seeing a little more viability now. That being said, however, I am by no means an engineer (I just play one on the internet). I don't know that I could properly lay out such a thing. And am I understanding that the 12V connector is just for the fans? Is that why it's only a few pins compared to the massive array of 5v/3.3v?

I'm gonna think on this a bit and maybe play around with some layouts.
 
am I understanding that the 12V connector is just for the fans?
That's correct, but that's also true of most arcade PCBs... most of the time 12V is only ever used for fans and audio amplification and not relevant to to the game actually running.
If that's the case, I really wonder if I could tap into the 12v rail for a 3.3v output on the JAMMA adapter. Damn I wish I had a Model3 to test but I don't.

I found another Model2/3 JAMMA adapter from coinopexpress but it looks severely sketchy. There are several of them up on ebay as well... It highlights something I do not want from my adapters, and that's this:

cramped.jpg

Multiple connectors across a single header. It looks bad, and I can't imagine the stress on the pins is all that great either. I mean, it's not like it's going to break off the headers, but I have quality standards, and would not want something like this in my cabinet.

That being said, this is the only reference currently for the Model3's CN13 connector. There is the pinout thread, of course, but this shows which pins across the header might be "unused". Every Model2b/c CN9 and CN10 adapter I've seen omits pins 5 and 6 from the connector. From at least this picture it appears all 5v and GND pins have a corresponding connection in the connector, but pins 5 and 6 of the 3.3v side do not? Very confusing.
 
If that's the case, I really wonder if I could tap into the 12v rail for a 3.3v output on the JAMMA adapter.
I wouldn't recommend it. Most JAMMA PSUs only supply 1amp on the 12V rail BECAUSE they're barely used, and systems like Model 3 and NAOMI that make use of the 3.3V rail usually require 4 or more Amps Minimum. a 5V to 3.3V conversion would be better but it still might not be enough.

This is the whole reason the Capcom IO doesn't work with the Net DIMM on NAOMI, because the Net DIMM adds a lot of extra 3.3V draw and the 5V to 3.3V converter that's equipped on the Capcom IO can't supply enough.


That being said, this is the only reference currently for the Model3's CN13 connector. There is the pinout thread, of course, but this shows which pins across the header might be "unused". Every Model2b/c CN9 and CN10 adapter I've seen omits pins 5 and 6 from the connector. From at least this picture it appears all 5v and GND pins have a corresponding connection in the connector, but pins 5 and 6 of the 3.3v side do not? Very confusing.
none of the pins on that connector are "unused" some harnesses might not populate them all but if you take a multimeter you'll find that 100% of them are hooked up.
 
I wouldn't recommend it. Most JAMMA PSUs only supply 1amp on the 12V rail BECAUSE they're barely used, and systems like Model 3 and NAOMI that make use of the 3.3V rail usually require 4 or more Amps Minimum. a 5V to 3.3V conversion would be better but it still might not be enough.
Ah, gotcha. Fair point.

And since all the pins are used I guess that changes how I'm gonna lay this thing out a bit.

Now my next issue here is to handle the GND. Obviously if we've got one PSU for the JAMMA and one PSU for the 3.3v, they don't share a common ground, do they?
 
Now my next issue here is to handle the GND. Obviously if we've got one PSU for the JAMMA and one PSU for the 3.3v, they don't share a common ground, do they?
they do share a common ground in the model 3, and they should absolutely be tied together between the two PSUs.
 
Very cool project! I have multiple Model 2/3 boards, and not enough conversion harnesses, so this is definitely something I would be interested in. Would strongly +1 a "I want audio over the JAMMA edge, please" use case.

I am happy to send you the harnesses I have, as well as a Model 3 PCB to test, but we'd have to work out details. Send me a PM?
 
Now my next issue here is to handle the GND. Obviously if we've got one PSU for the JAMMA and one PSU for the 3.3v, they don't share a common ground, do they?
they do share a common ground in the model 3, and they should absolutely be tied together between the two PSUs.
Oh ahahaha, I meant that two PSU's out of the box are normally not tied together, but yes, they should be tied, but I'm not quite sure how to go about that? Would that be outside the confines of a JAMMA adapter?


Very cool project! I have multiple Model 2/3 boards, and not enough conversion harnesses, so this is definitely something I would be interested in. Would strongly +1 a "I want audio over the JAMMA edge, please" use case.

I am happy to send you the harnesses I have, as well as a Model 3 PCB to test, but we'd have to work out details. Send me a PM?
Oh wow! Thank you for your interest and that's extremely generous of you! That would definitely be a great way to kickstart this project into it's next gear! Let me think on this for a little while and let's wait until after I've assembled the PCB boards coming my way first. If my first JAMMA adapter design (reverse engineered) fails, then I don't want to rush into a bigger project quite yet.

Audio over JAMMA is something I am considering, and I do realize that will be mono out, but I really do want to move away from the HA13001 amp chip and move to the Adafruit MAX9744. Though I will need to figure out a way to get the audio from the screw terminals back to the board somehow. :huh:
 
8o 8o 8o 8o 8o

ElRsc0lUUAAH0Oy.jpeg

The new board is slick af! I paid quite a bit extra on the JLPCB site for some of the better stuff and it sooo looks worth it!

EDIT:
GOOD NEWS: It amplifies audio, and it sounds amazing!
BAD NEWS: It only amplifies one channel.
WORSE NEWS: The mono resistor fails to mix both channels to mono.
TERRIBLE NEWS: Reassembling the original board yields the same results. No stereo output. Mono resistor does nothing.

EDIT2:
The only redeemable thing here (so far) is that if I were to make a summing cable out of the cable that connects the filter board to this adapter, I bet it would sound awesome. So to anyone who still might want one regardless, I can give you mono output. Ping @Mrhide.

EDIT3:
So I was trying to get an audio channel out of "COIN1" and "COIN2" (16/T) not "COINCOUNTER1" and "COINCOUNTER2" (8/J), and this thing does produce stereo sound! It sounds like one channel is slightly louder than the other, but that could just be my speakers. I can't quite get the MONO jumper resistor to work though? And I find that strange...
 
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ElRsc0lUUAAH0Oy.jpeg
The new board is slick af! I paid quite a bit extra on the JLPCB site for some of the better stuff and it sooo looks worth it!
EDIT:
GOOD NEWS: It amplifies audio, and it sounds amazing!
BAD NEWS: It only amplifies one channel.
WORSE NEWS: The mono resistor fails to mix both channels to mono.
TERRIBLE NEWS: Reassembling the original board yields the same results. No stereo output. Mono resistor does nothing.

EDIT2:
The only redeemable thing here (so far) is that if I were to make a summing cable out of the cable that connects the filter board to this adapter, I bet it would sound awesome. So to anyone who still might want one regardless, I can give you mono output. Ping @Mrhide.
I guess mono is better then nothing but are you planning to continue working at it?
 
I guess mono is better then nothing but are you planning to continue working at it?
Ah yes, see my EDIT3 above! Stereo is working! Left channel out of Speaker +/- (10/L) and right channel out of Coin Counter 1/2 (8/J), so if you want to wire this up for stereo, make sure your cab is wired accordingly and that you do not use a coin counter through your JAMMA harness.

EDIT: Got mono working. Not pleased that I have to do it by shorting the potentiometer, but it works. :/
 
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Some images of one of the harnesses I have (probably the best built). This is designed to be plugged into a Sanwa JVS PSU for power, but you could theoretically just connect it to any old JVS header (with another adapter, since the connectors are different sizes). Note the audio amp for output over the JAMMA edge. Happy to send more detailed images if you need 'em.

Hope this helps!

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xC6rzWlm.jpg
 
Happy to send more detailed images if you need 'em.
Please do, those are a little small to get the details fully understood.
@biggestsonicfan will these allow us to use Model 3 pcbs in a Jamma cab? I would love to be able to play SpikeOut in a Jamma cab :)
Not the ones I am currently making, no, but we are all working here together so I can understand how to make an adapter that is both Model2 and Model3 compatible with a JAMMA cab. So hold out a bit longer please as we iron out all the details! :thumbup:

EDIT: Can someone check the amp draw on the 5v and 3.3v rails for a Model3? That would help greatly!
 
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oh, I just had another thought on #3....

some of the Model 3 boards that used the DSB2 board had an additional little "Audio Mixer" PCB, basically just 3 sets of JST headerss and some resistors, to allow merging of the audio output from the main board and the DSB2 into a single output. If you wanted to be fancy you could find a way to build that into your adapter too.

audio_mixer_boar_4c7568e4d576e.jpg

of course you would only really need to add the second header and the resistors since the output would be fed straight to your amp.
So I pulled some images from ebay and overlayed them. This is a super simple circut, but I'd like the exact resistance value for those resistors to be honest. I'll cross reference this with the SpikeOut schematic to better understand what's needed:

sound-mixed.jpg



This will get you the full size versions.
Thanks!
 
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