Sega Model2/3 - JAMMA Adapter Thread

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    • Sure, but the discussion was also about over-draw on the Sanwa:

      twistedsymphony wrote:

      kazuo wrote:

      looks like something else happened there...
      what "something else" are you thinking? because that looks like a classic over-draw burn to me.

      There's only two pins for +3.3V on the Sanwa, which isn't ideal. And if the pins are making poor contact (due to dirt, oxidation, or whatever reason), that's what you can end up with.

      The Sun Model 3 PSUs in Sega cabs have a separate 10-pin connector for +3.3V:

    • nem wrote:

      Sure, but the discussion was also about over-draw on the Sanwa:
      at the point you quoted it wasn't PSU specific, we were simply discussing the number of wires and thickness of wires needed for power,

      PSU selection really needs to be a completely separate topic because beyond the connection mechanism (be it ATX, Mini-Fit Jr, JVS, JAMMA edge, or whatever) this topic should stay focused on the adapter.
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    • kazuo wrote:

      Lots of Japanese Arcades run the exact same harness and PSU I own and never had a problem. I do wonder if the issue that Ringo's friend had may have been influenced by voltage conversion (being that Ringo's location is the UK)? Just speculation on my part. Granted, I also use a voltage converter on mine, but I also use a Mean Well on one of them since I got one without the Sanwa PSU. All that said, I've had multiple sessions over weekends where friends and I played SpikeOut for 8+ hours (no joke), and we didn't have a single problem. Nothing melted, nothing caught fire.

      I understand the level of concern here due to the power draw of these boards, plus Ken's comments, but I think as long as you're using a high-quality adjustable power supply with the correct input voltage for your region, there shouldn't be a problem.
      My friend lives in Japan and has been playing SpikeOut FE for many many years, he's played quite a few of those years on that very setup. One day his DSB2 stopped working and when he investigated he found those connectors plugged into his PSU had burned out.

      I'm guilty of playing SpikeOut for mad sessions too, I think my longest stream is something like 7+ hours! It's a devious addictive game for sure which pushes my patience to my upper limits. :whistling:

      The only reason I posted that pic is to show that even when using a dedicated PSU there's a risk of over-draw in certain circumstances. My point was that powering Model 3 directly via Jamma may not be the right choice for the long term. Even when using different power supplies that Sega considered OK I still observed heat generated on 3.3v and 5v connectors.

      Having a Jamma adapter for the controls and video would save a lot of hassle making bespoke looms etc. If I hadn't had made my own looms I would have been very interested in buying some of these if/when they are available.
    • nem wrote:

      Sure, but the discussion was also about over-draw on the Sanwa:

      twistedsymphony wrote:

      kazuo wrote:

      looks like something else happened there...
      what "something else" are you thinking? because that looks like a classic over-draw burn to me.
      There's only two pins for +3.3V on the Sanwa, which isn't ideal. And if the pins are making poor contact (due to dirt, oxidation, or whatever reason), that's what you can end up with.

      The Sun Model 3 PSUs in Sega cabs have a separate 10-pin connector for +3.3V:


      Slightly OT, just an observation regarding your picture.

      Even though the model number is the same, the PSU on one of my setups that was fitted inside a Daytona USA 2 DX shows 12a on the 5v rail. Not sure what's going on there.
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