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Hey everybody!

It's been some time without updating. I decided to desolder the tube pins adaptor from the monitor chassis that you pointed me out was crooked out on past photos.

The pins from the white adaptor are beyond unrepairable at this point; one advice was to solder the broken legs back to the rest of the pin but the task is harder than expected.

I tried to pry out each of the legs but this resulted in excessive force into the adapter plastic. At this point, I'll be doing more damage than fixing.

I got two options:
  1. Buy a new tube white pins adaptor. Is this an common aftermarket part? does anyone has an spare one for sale?
  2. Buy a new chassis. I've seen Yaton is selling some Nanao's boards in Ebay, but could I swap my current Nanao with any other one?
Image Examples :
Once again, thank you for all your wife (lol) wise advice on this tasks.

Have a great weekend!

Edit :

Seems I found my answer to bullet point 1 - Luckily It's not an uncommon part. I found it looking for it at Google, It's called " CRT Socket, 9 pins"
I got to order one from from Amazon, hopefully these are universal parts for all chassis:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-GZS10-2-108-Soldering-Terminals-Socket/dp/B007PQ0DS6
 
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Okay, there are a lot of CRT sockets out there, not just CR-23, and the footprint may be different.

I still have multiple spare neckboards that have what you need on them.
 
I remember reading that the original CRT sockets are somehow special by having a spark gap on pin 9?
 
Okay, there are a lot of CRT sockets out there, not just CR-23, and the footprint may be different.

I still have multiple spare neckboards that have what you need on them.
Thanks for the feedback Hatsune - Just to be on the safe side on such part... Would you please sell me one of your CRT sockets?

Hopefully is a yes :D

Thanks man! Nice day everyone.
 
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Yeah I figured it might have been beyond repair but hey think of it this way.
Would you rather have a broken socket or neckboard or a broken tube :rolleyes: one of those items is much more expensive lol.

Looking forward to seeing it run :D
 
Yeah I figured it might have been beyond repair but hey think of it this way.
Would you rather have a broken socket or neckboard or a broken tube :rolleyes: one of those items is much more expensive lol.

Looking forward to seeing it run :D
Hey man, thank you for the positivity! :)
I might be ordering caps, resistors, etc. over the next weeks to try to give the Nanao back its luster - I'm also eager to see how the results turns out, hoping for the better.

I'll be showing up some results later, hopefully before the end of this year. There's some other stuff I also need to restore to the Astro City such as marquees, control panels, crackings, wiring, paiting, locks, yadda yadda yadda.
The CRT and Chassis are at the top priority though.

Thanks again for all the help, wish you a great day everyone!
 
It's been a long time - Hope you all got a great holiday season!

I've been awaiting some tools and spare parts for the last 2 months in order to continue the MS8 chassis restoration.
I have the chance to buy another spare Nanao Chassis since the other one is still awaiting it's CRT socket replacement AND will still see if that make it works.

My tube is a Toshiba A68KJU96X ( 4B )

I got some beginners questions:
-Would a NANAO MS9 fit this monitor?
-What other Nanao's models are compatible with this monitor?

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Thank you for the help guys!
 
The question is what chassis will work with the yoke you have on the tube, and that is answer is any MS8-28, and the MS9-29 with some issues:

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/nanao-ms9-horizontal-size-not-filling-screen.15880/

For the MS9 you will also have to change some of the wiring.
Thanks, I'll check the YOKE connector today.
Seems that everything is pointing out to get an spare MS8-29 instead - I'm still awaiting to repair that loose CRT adaptor piece, but my package was delayed for another month.

I'll keep you in touch with this progress - Thanks for all the answers.
 
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Hi @nem

I finally took a photo of the Yoke in my Toshiba A68KJU96X ( 4B )

Would you know perhaps which YOKE could be this one?
Seems like a NANAO but I couldn't find anything on Google about it specially on the WHITE like ring above the YOKE doesn't seem to drop any results.

Thanks for the support!
1610747528966.png
1610747800102.png

1610747843614.png
 
Not necessarily. If converge looks good, leave the rings alone.
 
The yellow is just the factory convergence settings presumably unless it was redone.
Basically you want to draw a nice little line so you know where your factory settings or new settings are for convergence.

Playing with convergence rings is already tedious enough so its very helpful to have it tbh.
 
That is a MS8-29 Yoke , it will work fine with an MS9-29 chasis but the yoke connectors on the MS9 are split in 2 where the MS8 has all 4 wires in a single 4 pin connector.
If you cut the 4 pin yoke connector in half the Red & Blue half ( Horizontal ) will fit as normal on the MS9, the other half Brown & Yellow ( Vertical ) that connector is larger than the pins on the MS9 so you will need to find a connector that fits tightly on them pins.
That same Toshiba tube + Yoke was used for the MS8-29FAN , they look identical and were often interchanged but if you put an MS9 on the MS8-29FAN Yoke you will get vertical interference ( Known as Ringing ) , to fix this all you need is to add a 1K 1/2w resistor across the vertical pins ( Yellow & Brown ) , the FSG yoke has a 1K resistor already soldered behind the plastic molding
There another chassis that is compatible with the MS8-29FSG / FAN models , that is the Sanwa PM1745C .
The MS9-29 series is far superior to the MS8-29 series.

On the neck board socket , all Nanao MS7 , 8 and 9 series have an internal spark gap between Focus and Gnd inside the socket.
 
I think anyone new to the arcade scene considering the purchase of a CRT based cab should be required to read this entire thread first.
Monitor service and repair is a very real part of the hobby and you should know what's involved before pulling the trigger.
Don't be fooled into believing this won't ever be an issue for you just because everything is working right now/today.
I have no shame admitting I wasn't up for the challenge, and I hate seeing others make the same mistake I did.
 
I think anyone new to the arcade scene considering the purchase of a CRT based cab should be required to read this entire thread first.
Monitor service and repair is a very real part of the hobby and you should know what's involved before pulling the trigger.
Don't be fooled into believing this won't ever be an issue for you just because everything is working right now/today.
I have no shame admitting I wasn't up for the challenge, and I hate seeing others make the same mistake I did.
Sometimes you gotta learn the hard way and become a sad panda when the monitor breaks.


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I don't know how you are spending $1000 when your monitor breaks

MS8-29 yoke "works" with the MS9, but the width will forever be a little lower, and for some games with narrow rasters (Ninja-Kun II, Air Buster, etc) they will never fill the screen properly without pincushion distortion, even after adjustment.
 
MS8-29 yoke "works" with the MS9, but the width will forever be a little lower, and for some games with narrow rasters
That isn't true , the MS9 has a far greater range on the MS8 yoke than the MS8 chassis does but you need to understand how to properly adjust them, the controls on the remote board are basically only for fine tuning, the primary controls are on the chassis itself. (HS LIM) determines the maximum horizontal deflection that the remote control will allow , there are separate pin cushion adjustments for 15K and 24K on the chassis.
In fact if you adjust an MS9-29 chassis on the MS9 yoke for a perfect image and then swap the yoke to the MS8 you will need to reduce the H-Size slightly.
 
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