- Thread starter hoagtech
- Start date
You could use the NAC Splitfire to split the RGBs signal out to your OSSC. Or there are other ways...
Glad you were able to get it hooked up and working. Working on monitors is really challenging but also very rewarding.
Glad you were able to get it hooked up and working. Working on monitors is really challenging but also very rewarding.
Just a quick update for those of you who would like to use the Craftymech TPG without making their own cables.
I found a set a prefab cables with an included Sharp Nintendo monitor adapter which will come in handy for for my Mario.
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TPG-CABLES
Most of my monitors had a 120v cord coming from the chassis. I plug this into the a female outlet coming from the secondary wires.
Here's a (rough) sketch
Also at @Zebra shared how to fix the dimness on the Makvision monitors.
Apparently there is a switch on the remote board to help with VGA sources.
I found a set a prefab cables with an included Sharp Nintendo monitor adapter which will come in handy for for my Mario.
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TPG-CABLES
Ill try and take a picture.
Most of my monitors had a 120v cord coming from the chassis. I plug this into the a female outlet coming from the secondary wires.
Here's a (rough) sketch
Also at @Zebra shared how to fix the dimness on the Makvision monitors.
Apparently there is a switch on the remote board to help with VGA sources.
The problem with buying prebuilt cables is they're all like 1.5 - 3 feet long looking. I made my cables a full 6 ft length. This lets me attach to the chassis and then walk around to the front of the cab and control the TPG. I guess it's really not a big deal if you're using it solely on the bench top. How long is that cable you got? Hard to tell with it coiled up.
I would also recommend using wire nuts over quick splice connectors... especially on AC wiring. But if it's working whatever. I would also recommend putting in a fuse on the AC Live wire. Even though the chassis also has its own fuse, it's a good safety measure.
I would also recommend using wire nuts over quick splice connectors... especially on AC wiring. But if it's working whatever. I would also recommend putting in a fuse on the AC Live wire. Even though the chassis also has its own fuse, it's a good safety measure.
Right on @KaPH33n
Thanks for all you input and help so far btw.
I was so frustrated when I couldn't find basic info about Isolation and monitor input.
I would hope Mikes arcade would make them to the Manufacturers recommendation which is 6' and separate 2 pin HV-+ swappable plugs.
On second read. It looks like they are 4' long. It should be plenty for my bench though.
Im having trouble identifying this 19" Wells Gardner chassis.
I had no life when I plugged it into my Isolation transformer.
I took the fuse out and got continuity so I believe the fuse is good.
THe RGBS connector had a Sharp Nintendo style input. I'm confused because it has both +HV and -HV on the connector but my Crafty Mech only has 6 oins and not eight the last 2 being swappable 2 pin SO I can do either +HV or -HV.
I took a pic of the recommended setup on RGBS connection from the chassis frame.
Any help on RGBS setup and chassis Identification would be appreciated
I had no life when I plugged it into my Isolation transformer.
I took the fuse out and got continuity so I believe the fuse is good.
THe RGBS connector had a Sharp Nintendo style input. I'm confused because it has both +HV and -HV on the connector but my Crafty Mech only has 6 oins and not eight the last 2 being swappable 2 pin SO I can do either +HV or -HV.
I took a pic of the recommended setup on RGBS connection from the chassis frame.
Any help on RGBS setup and chassis Identification would be appreciated
@hoagtech you can try this site if you haven’t already: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html
Yes I have. I found that hard to navigate.
Am I supposed to click on every picture until I find it?
Also what do I do when they have an 8 pin RGBS connector with 6 pin test leads on the Craftymech
That looks almost identical to one of my monitors which I believe to be a k7000. I could be wrong, the sticker fell off and I lost track.
mine:
Bob Robert’s page: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/7000.html
mine:
Bob Robert’s page: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/7000.html
Yes, just click until you see what you have.
I haven’t used the TPG yet so I’m in the same boat, but looks like you might need to just move the 2 pin sync connector down to the two last pins? Unless your connector is all one piece you might need to make a new harness.
I’m 99% sure this is a K7000. The reference label matches the manual. There’s also a number on the top left of that label that seems to confirm it with others.
I’ll be testing mine the same way in the next few days so let me know how you make out.
I haven’t used the TPG yet so I’m in the same boat, but looks like you might need to just move the 2 pin sync connector down to the two last pins? Unless your connector is all one piece you might need to make a new harness.
I’m 99% sure this is a K7000. The reference label matches the manual. There’s also a number on the top left of that label that seems to confirm it with others.
I’ll be testing mine the same way in the next few days so let me know how you make out.
Moving on.
I got this 19" Wells Gardner also not able to identify..
Its an older one manufactured 1981.
It has these weird wires sticking out for the RGBS connector but has the same issue.
It has hookups for RGBS. It has Red,Green,Blue,Ground,+V,-H, and then ground, -V, and -H on the other side.
If my Craftymech only has 6 pins on 8 pinouts how do I hook up to these monitors?
I was able to get a solid white line when I plugged it in?
I got this 19" Wells Gardner also not able to identify..
Its an older one manufactured 1981.
It has these weird wires sticking out for the RGBS connector but has the same issue.
It has hookups for RGBS. It has Red,Green,Blue,Ground,+V,-H, and then ground, -V, and -H on the other side.
If my Craftymech only has 6 pins on 8 pinouts how do I hook up to these monitors?
I was able to get a solid white line when I plugged it in?
It does look a lot like yours.
Judging by your connector it looks like +H and + V are disconnected from the molex.
You only need to hook up the sync once. some monitors have the ability to use positive or negative sync. some can only accept one or the other. some need composite sync (h+v tied together). Just hook it up once and from the right type to the right pins.
Thanks man. I figured it out based on @everten s connector missing ports as well.
I attached the 2 pin onto the -H-V on the craftymech and -h-v on the chassis.
The test patterns were showing up on the collapsed line in the middle and for no reason, The picture blew up and I got an image! WOOHOO!
The image was yellow and wavy.
I messed with screen and focus a little and got the image to clear up but there was no sign of blue on the pic.
I watched this video which shows you how to troubleshoot whether your tube is bad or if its the chassis that's the problem.
After hooking a a gator clip to the frame I poked around each pin on the back of the neckbaord while it was live.
and was able to show blue by grounding the blue pin which means my tube is still good fortunately.
I would love to know which model chassis this old beast is. It sounds petty, but the Red and the Green look amazing lol.
According to the video he suggested checking the color drive transistors which I believe are one of three of these guys I have circled in red.
He said he used the "diode tester setting" on his multi meter to find that it was "shorted out".
What setting should I use on my multi meter and how do I check that?
Also his "Color drive transistors" had 3 points of contact and mine only have 2.
He said he used the "diode tester setting" on his multi meter to find that it was "shorted out".
What setting should I use on my multi meter and how do I check that?
Also his "Color drive transistors" had 3 points of contact and mine only have 2.
Well I decided to head back on Saturday to hopefully complete more tests.
I went go test my Domy Theater replacement 33" monitor but once again I'm stuck reverse looking up a chassis for a diagram.
I have the connectors for Rgbs to crafty, But Im stumped trying to find the AC input on this chassis.
Has anyone come across this 33" tube and happen to know which chassis I have?
The tube is a Panasonic 33" SI78JUA29X
Here are some pictures of the chassis.
And this a weird connector on the corner of the Monitor frame..
Can anyone tell me a good place to start looking into this?
I went go test my Domy Theater replacement 33" monitor but once again I'm stuck reverse looking up a chassis for a diagram.
I have the connectors for Rgbs to crafty, But Im stumped trying to find the AC input on this chassis.
Has anyone come across this 33" tube and happen to know which chassis I have?
The tube is a Panasonic 33" SI78JUA29X
Here are some pictures of the chassis.
And this a weird connector on the corner of the Monitor frame..
Can anyone tell me a good place to start looking into this?
These spring like fingers should be making direct contact with the dag layer on the back of the tube. That degauss coil should be placed a little differently so it's not interfering.And this a weird connector on the corner of the Monitor frame..
Can anyone tell me a good place to start looking into this?
