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Monitor Test Bench Solution Help.

Your the man @KaPH33n. It was really hidden but I found the location and was able to run a test.



I moved the Dag interface away from the degauss coil.

I'm not getting any blue on this monitor either its got me a little worried about my setup in general. I made sure the RGB channels were turned on on the Crafty and that they were hooked up to the appropriate pins on the chassis.




I'm using the Sharp nintendo adapter instead of the WG one because it has the correct RGB order for the monitors I've been testing.

I tried using a degaussing stick but as soon as release the magnetic field button the image goes back to crap.





Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?
 
Load solid raster test pattern. Measure dcv between ground r,g,b on cable that runs to Mon. All should be the same.
 
hoagtech said:
Your the man @KaPH33n. It was really hidden but I found the location and was able to run a test.
Click to expand...
Happy to help dude. I love when 5 min of someone's experience saves hours of work for another person...


hoagtech said:
I'm not getting any blue on this monitor either its got me a little worried about my setup in general. I made sure the RGB channels were turned on on the Crafty and that they were hooked up to the appropriate pins on the chassis.

Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
A few things to double check... I would put my meter in DC Voltage mode on the video ground and R G & B pins. See if you see voltage or signal at all on the blue line. You could also try switching channels around so that red is feeding blue.

If you have a rejuvenator I would use it to also check the blue guns... see if emissions are within expected range?

A hacky way to check for the gun's strength is to ground the transistors momentarily on the neck board. If you touch the blue transistor and the whole screen doesn't turn blue then the gun is gone. Read about this a bit more before attempting.
 
brad808 said:
Load solid raster test pattern. Measure dcv between ground r,g,b on cable that runs to Mon. All should be the same.
Click to expand...
I tried doing that.

Im getting .50 V on R and G and .44 on B

I measured from the pins connected to the Crafty mech. Black on ground, Red on RGB
 
KaPH33n said:
hoagtech said:
Your the man @KaPH33n. It was really hidden but I found the location and was able to run a test.
Click to expand...
Happy to help dude. I love when 5 min of someone's experience saves hours of work for another person...

hoagtech said:
I'm not getting any blue on this monitor either its got me a little worried about my setup in general. I made sure the RGB channels were turned on on the Crafty and that they were hooked up to the appropriate pins on the chassis.

Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
A few things to double check... I would put my meter in DC Voltage mode on the video ground and R G & B pins. See if you see voltage or signal at all on the blue line. You could also try switching channels around so that red is feeding blue.
If you have a rejuvenator I would use it to also check the blue guns... see if emissions are within expected range?

A hacky way to check for the gun's strength is to ground the transistors momentarily on the neck board. If you touch the blue transistor and the whole screen doesn't turn blue then the gun is gone. Read about this a bit more before attempting.
Click to expand...
I grounded the neckboard to the frame with alligator clips and touched the solder on the rgb pins of the neckboard.

Blue was definitely there and pumped the pic full of blue.

Well Im stumped again.
 
hey man, that's great... better than the opposite! Something is losing the blue... Seems like it's somewhere after the RGB input on the chassis but before the neckboard. look around for any crispy lookin transistors or diodes.
 
KaPH33n said:
hey man, that's great... better than the opposite! Something is losing the blue... Seems like it's somewhere after the RGB input on the chassis but before the neckboard. look around for any crispy lookin transistors or diodes.
Click to expand...
Yeah. After the only 2 successful test missing blue.

My next step is to pull my working WG monitor from my my mk2 cab and see if the blue is missing on my test bench.

I’m skeptical of the TPG setup I have at this point.
 
Pixel Krisis said:
@hoagtech

Would you mind showing how you wired your test rig up? I kind of want to make one too.
Click to expand...
Gladly.

List of tools:
(Isolation Transformer Setup)
Isolation transformer: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-Gam...605397?hash=item1c52679915:g:KFcAAOSwEeFVR8ZY
Isolation Trans former connectors (or make your own): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Isolation-...132610?hash=item523686f582:g:IxQAAOSwtOVdDLK6
Male 120v cord (pc cord was handy)
Female 120v cord
Male 120v cord to monitor AC chassis connector plus fork terminal for Monitor Frame ground (dependent on Monitor)

(Test Pattern Generator Setup)
Craftymech TPG : https://craftymech.com/arcade-test-pattern-generator/
Craftymech TPG Connector Cables (Or make your own): https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TPG-CABLES
9V battery for TPG

You should hook up primary to your wall cord, and secondary to your female outlet, and then male plug going to your AC on your chassis and Ground terminal your monitor frame is the jist for your Isolation Setup. (Shield your eyes, This is rough!)




Then hook up your monitor cords to the appropriate connectors on the Crafty mech. Some chassis have the sync types labeled, others don't. On my K7000 it was -H,-V) Finally hook up a chassis RGBS cable to your crafty mech.



Then hook up your Monitor's Chassis cord (mikes arcade set comes with a k7000 connector) to your chassis


Hope that helps..

One thing to note is the cord set I bought had an improper order of crimps. I had to switch Blue with gnd and got my blue back finally on my 19" k7000






Question: Does anyone know what sync type Nanao Monitors use for this crafty mech. The WG's had seprate H and V sync polarities, My Nanao only has Ground and sync.

So where would I connect the sync to crafty mech? (-h,-v,+h,+v?)

 
KaPH33n said:
yeah, just put them both to one pin.
Click to expand...
Sweet that worked great. Thanks again

I sent +HV on the +V pin by enabling DIP 6 & 7 to ON on the Craftymech.

My image seemed shifted to the left but is centered in my Aero cabs.

Most important to me is figuring out how to degauss these monitors without having to wire up the degauss service panel.



I have a green China DG stick but I’m not good at using it. This monitor supports Auto degauss.. How do I perform this on my test bench?


Here is the Auto Deguass connector coming from the monitor coil on the chassis..

 
Thanks @hoagtech.

Is an emi filter necessary for the AC line from the mains?
What about a fuse for the AC line?


Are you ok if I ask questions in your thread?
 
Pixel Krisis said:
Thanks @hoagtech.

Is an emi filter necessary for the AC line from the mains?
What about a fuse for the AC line?


Are you ok if I ask questions in your thread?
Click to expand...
KaPH33n said:
using a filter is a good idea, but not strictly necessary. If you are running other heavy equipment on the same AC circuit I would definitely recommend it. large appliances, table saw, drill press, that kind of stuff.
Click to expand...
KaPH33n said:
I would also recommend putting in a fuse on the AC Live wire. Even though the chassis also has its own fuse, it's a good safety measure.
Click to expand...
I would say we all benefit from each other asking questions. Try to read through the thread first though, before adding the same ones multiple times.
 
hoagtech said:
My image seemed shifted to the left but is centered in my Aero cabs.

Most important to me is figuring out how to degauss these monitors without having to wire up the degauss service panel.



I have a green China DG stick but I’m not good at using it. This monitor supports Auto degauss.. How do I perform this on my test bench?


Here is the Auto Deguass connector coming from the monitor coil on the chassis..

Click to expand...
You should be able to adjust the horizontal position using the remote board? what kind of chassis is that?

I don't have one of the green DG wands, but I have always used the ring style. They work well.

As for the degauss circuitry on most monitors it is usually feeding AC directly into that coil. There's a switch that lets you trigger it, but auto degauss doesn't have that switch I guess, it just does it when you turn on the monitor. I wouldn't bother with hooking up degaussing circuits on the bench unless that is what you are trying to debug/diagnose. I'd just use the external degaussing coils for stuff on the bench.
 
I bought a better degaussing coil and was able to degauss the monitors on the test bench.

I even got the MS826 that I thought blew its tube displaying again and was feeling confident...



And then after one minute of usage. The connectors inside the coil started to melt and fuse together.

It fried my Surge protector and made my walls vibrate as I dove to unplug the coil.

Finally. The connector fell out and I'm back to square one waiting for another degauss coil.

 
ah yeah, gotta be careful to not use it much. if you use it for say 30 seconds leave it off for like 10 minutes. these are rough numbers but you don't want it to melt like that haha. I like the kind that have a momentary button over a hard on/off switch.
 
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