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Foxe

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I've been looking into Mitsurugi's JVS I/O helper but lack the full technical know how to set up a racing wheel. The video demonstrations have been really helpful though. I currently have a Naomi 2 set up with a Capcom I/O and an ATX power supply (Thanks Mitsurugi).

I still need to get a racing wheel but not sure which would be best. Then the JVS I/O, I'm not fully sure what's required to wire it up. Does anybody have resources on what wheel to buy and some more reading on the JVS I/O helper?
 
Mitsurugi's JVS I/O helper would be a good bet as it's simple to setup - I think basically any wheel you want to cut up would be fine, they just need to have pots.

However as an alternative, if you're a bit tech savvy you can use OpenJVS and any USB wheel (without modification) to play all the Sega Naomi racing games https://github.com/openjvs/openjvs.
 
if you're a bit tech savvy you can use OpenJVS and any USB wheel (without modification) to play all the Sega Naomi racing games
Is there force feedback support? I didn't see it noted on the github page, so I assume no, but that would be pretty sweet if so.
 
@Aurich Not currently, but that is on the road map. Supporting Lindbergh FFB on Outrun 2SP will be the first thing.
 
There are lots of options at all kinds of price points for force feedback wheels these days with sim racing being so popular. Support for them would be a fun way to expand a setup.
 
Yeah, the FFB would be cool to have by my understanding is that it's pretty difficult if not impossible to have a single set up work with multiple games. They're all different aren't they?

I guess the Open JVS project could probably emulate and send whatever signal is required which may be the best option in the future when that's done.
 
> Yeah, the FFB would be cool to have by my understanding is that it's pretty difficult if not impossible to have a single set up work with multiple games. They're all different aren't they?

I think there is someone who is currently making a converter that can support most of them.

> I guess the Open JVS project could probably emulate and send whatever signal is required which may be the best option in the future when that's done.

Yeah it's actually a pretty easy thing to do, all the specs for how the FFB protocols communicate are pretty well documented online, it's just a matter of getting time and interest to do it. When you do a software job from 9 to 5, trying to find the will power to then continue more programming can be difficult at times! ;)
 
My favourite wheel is the Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Microsof...909575?hash=item1cf71c4607:g:sU8AAOSwG8ZflC-7

Reasons for this are:

- It turns about the same amount as an arcade wheel
- It's force feedback is pretty strong + by default it'll just center itself when no FFB commands are sent.
- Got a nice set of buttons
- Can be had for very cheep!
- I had the non ffb version when I was a kid, so probably nostalgia.
- The Non FFB version is also good, and can be had for even cheeper, feels very similar to an upright crazy taxi wheel to me in spring strength.

Other wheels like Logitech G25 and the like have good reviews, but they turn much further and this has caused problems for some people. I think theres a fix where you can edit some linux settings to get them to turn less, but I'm not 100% clued up on it.

This however is just my opinion, and I've not gone out to try lots of wheels! But if you're looking for an inexpensive wheel for playing with, I think they're good!
 
I assume all Naomi games use 270° rotation wheels, pretty sure that was the standard at the time. Just about any modern force feedback wheel is going to be at least 900°. Should be trivial enough to adjust in software, but it does mean you'll be able to turn it past "lock" in the game.

So yeah, that's a plus for older stuff like the Sidewinder, which is a 270° wheel. The new wheel tech is way better, but also way more expensive and probably over performs in too many ways now I think about it.

Unless you're expanding to trying to run something like Initial D at home probably best to go old and cheap.
 
- The Non FFB version is also good, and can be had for even cheeper, feels very similar to an upright crazy taxi wheel to me in spring strength.
Bump! If you have that wheel, make sure you desolder and replace the switches for the paddle shifters; they are old and worn after 23+ years. I saw my games were downshifting twice when holding the paddle down once after I had modified my Sidewinder Precision for use on Naomi 2 and M3. The switches are Omron B3F-1002. After replacing the switches, I got back to racing on Daytona 2 in a sitch! Working great now!

The pedals may not have the most sensitive ranges but they do work well on most games after calibration. This is my favorite all-around wheel ever, though I had to compromise a few buttons and cut traces on the two PCBs inside, in order to use all the original wiring inside the wheelbase. I play Wild Riders, 18 Wheeler, Daytona 2, Harley-Davidson, Super GT, heck even Waverunner (Model 2C) with this wheel and pedal setup. Can't wait to try it on Jambo Safari and Crazy Taxi when those carts arrive to my door.
 
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