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This is what it doing. When I select the game, it's random since I can't see anything on the LCD.

 
can you try with a different cable between LCD and multi? If you have any of my other multis that would be helpful to narrow down the source of your problem but it's either the POT, the cable or the LCD itself.
 
can you try with a different cable between LCD and multi? If you have any of my other multis that would be helpful to narrow down the source of your problem but it's either the POT, the cable or the LCD itself.
I tried two cables. It came with the short cable and the long cable I purchased. Both cables had the same results; a blank screen. Here are some pictures of the install.





 
What microSD are you using?

Can you try a different PAL? An original one? Also, please let me know about the Test romsets 01010101 and 10101010.

Thanks.
 
I tried three different Micro SD cards; a 1 gb, 4 gb and a 16 gb by SanDisk. They are all class 4 and they all seem to work. Try a Different G Pal? I just have the one I ordered. I don't have extra stuff for this kit, just what was ordered. I did a rom test with AVP. Everything said, "OK". Everything works find, with the exception of the LCD and the Jacked up Sound. The sound seem to have the same issues as the original DarkSoft kit, when you had to connect a wire from the PAL and then to the Darksoft board.
 
1. With the new kit you can actually completely remove the PAL. It will still work. Give it a try ;)

2. Sound problems can still occur if the jumpers are set in a certain way. Make sure two in each pair aren't closed.

3. The screen shown when MVC boots is the first post screen. Its freezing at that point. Next I would test it on another B-board. If that problem remains it would point to a "faulty multi (TM)".
 
1. With the new kit you can actually completely remove the PAL. It will still work. Give it a try ;)

2. Sound problems can still occur if the jumpers are set in a certain way. Make sure two in each pair aren't closed.

3. The screen shown when MVC boots is the first post screen. Its freezing at that point. Next I would test it on another B-board. If that problem remains it would point to a "faulty multi (TM)".
It didn't work without the PAL. It would do it's loading thing and go to a red screen. MVC booted fine. The PFD said Jumpers didn't matter with DS Champion Edition. These are my jumpers.


 
Do you see any rework on your B board?
Looks like the Jumpers may have been changed at some point. Other then the battery, which is now removed; it doesn't look like anything has been reworked.
 
The PFD said Jumpers didn't matter with DS Champion Edition. These are my jumpers.
yes, that's right, but if jumpers are wrongly configured you may have problems. Please double check them and don't trust your eye, trust your multimeter!
 
The PFD said Jumpers didn't matter with DS Champion Edition. These are my jumpers.
yes, that's right, but if jumpers are wrongly configured you may have problems. Please double check them and don't trust your eye, trust your multimeter!
What is the configuration? The same as the original DarkSoft configuration? I thought, part of the point of the Darksoft Champion Edition was that you didn't have to mess with Jumper. What about the LCD?
 
that's what I said, you dont need to touch the jumpers in your b board to make the multi work, but looks like someone already touched them in your board. Just make sure they did a proper job.
 
that's what I said, you dont need to touch the jumpers in your b board to make the multi work, but looks like someone already touched them in your board. Just make sure they did a proper job.
I doubt that's the problem as MVC worked find before I removed the EPROMs. But I'll spend the time and test. Would that cause issues with the LCD?
 
The jumpers don't matter IF they are correctly set for a game. I frequently see jumpers wrong on games converted by Capcom Mexico. Each jumper is in a pair. One of each is meant to be open and 1 closed. If both jumpers in a pair are closed you will see issues with the multi even if the game originally installed didn't have issues.

Did you say the contrast pot for the lcd had no effect at all?
 
that's what I said, you dont need to touch the jumpers in your b board to make the multi work, but looks like someone already touched them in your board. Just make sure they did a proper job.
I tested everything and it was fine as far as the jumpers go. I did some experimenting, the first set of Jumpers are closed, open, open, closed. I changed it to closed, open, closed, open and then reversed it. Changing the configuration caused a scrambled picture. I did return it to it's original configuration. Nothing effected the LCD. It still doesn't display. For Sound, I'm going to try an F PAL with the Botton, forth to the last pin connected to J17 on the KIT. That fixed the sound with the original DarkSoft Kit based on a youtube video. I'll let you know if that works. I personally think the LCD is defective.
 
I tested everything and it was fine as far as the jumpers go. I did some experimenting, the first set of Jumpers are closed, open, open, closed. I changed it to closed, open, closed, open and then reversed it. Changing the configuration caused a scrambled picture.
I'm confused now. As we explained the jumpers are in pairs and the important thing is that two paired pins are not both short or both open. They must simple be different, regardles of the configuration. The fact that changing them produced some effect, means that there is something wrong there as otherwise it wouldnt have any effect. Please check them all.


For Sound, I'm going to try an F PAL with the Botton, forth to the last pin connected to J17 on the KIT. That fixed the sound with the original DarkSoft Kit based on a youtube video. I'll let you know if that works. I personally think the LCD is defective.
There is no J17 anymore. Just plug fully the F PAL and test please. About the LCD, maybe is defective. As I wrote, either the LCD or the cable, most probably.

If you can't fix it, I would send it to @Mitsurugi-w so that he can have a look.
 
@Segamer not sure it’s the problem but you should know... on these boards, just because there’s no solder blob between jumpers doesn’t mean it’s open. They used wires to close some jumpers. Check continuity with a multimeter.

images


Three are closed here, three are open. There’s a small trace on the closed ones.
 
@Segamer not sure it’s the problem but you should know... on these boards, just because there’s no solder blob between jumpers doesn’t mean it’s open. They used wires to close some jumpers. Check continuity with a multimeter.

images


Three are closed here, three are open. There’s a small trace on the closed on
When I said I checked them and their fine, I mean, I checked them with a Multimeter and they are fine. I'm actually not a noob. This is my first time with a DarkSoft product; however I do modding all the time.
 
lcd cable backwards? I see red on the left in the manual photos. Haven’t touched this champion edition but did notice that seemed odd. Maybe it was crimped wrong if the key is right. We did have a backwards interconnect board shipped before.
 
lcd cable backwards? I see red on the left in the manual photos. Haven’t touched this champion edition but did notice that seemed odd. Maybe it was crimped wrong if the key is right. We did have a backwards interconnect board shipped beforeMy
My High Score Saves extension cable was crimped this way. Was a little tight, but worked.
 
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