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Would have to check pictured from the inside to see the harness.
pfff... it's got pots that's all you need, build your own conversion harness.

i can tell you right now it wont just "plug in". Super Hang On uses the Space Harrier hardware while Manx TT is Model 2 and they use completely different pin outs and connector styles. but you could make it work if you really wanted to. Personally I'd rather have a MTT cab than SHO, much nicer cab, much more versitile in terms of games you could swap in... but that's just me.
 
The steering is completely different in Manx TT. You don't steer with the handlebar, you lean on the bike.
 
The steering is completely different in Manx TT. You don't steer with the handlebar, you lean on the bike.
That's how the deluxe version of Super Hang On works as well... only the "compact" upright version uses handlebar steering..

either way that's irrelevant as the control data is still analog.
 
That's how the deluxe version of Super Hang On works as well... only the "compact" upright version uses handlebar steering..
Oh that's right. I've only ever seen the handlebar ones.

There's a motor driving the lean on the bike on Manx, so whoever wanted it to work with SHO would have his work cut out for him that's for sure.
 
Would have to check pictured from the inside to see the harness.
pfff... it's got pots that's all you need, build your own conversion harness.
i can tell you right now it wont just "plug in". Super Hang On uses the Space Harrier hardware while Manx TT is Model 2 and they use completely different pin outs and connector styles. but you could make it work if you really wanted to. Personally I'd rather have a MTT cab than SHO, much nicer cab, much more versitile in terms of games you could swap in... but that's just me.
There is no reason to pfff around here buddy ... there is a lot more then "just" wiring up pots.
There is also more than 1 variant for the Sega Model 2 PCB.
 
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There's a motor driving the lean on the bike on Manx, so whoever wanted it to work with SHO would have his work cut out for him that's for sure.
Only on the deluxe models, and that's only a form of "force feedback" on the twin units there is no motor. since SHO has no output for that you could just ignore that aspect of the cab; similar to how playing a racing game without forcefeedback on the steering wheel doesn't prevent you from playing that racing game.


There is no reason to pfff around here buddy ... there is a lot more then "just" wiring up pots.
There are more than 1 variant for the Sega Model 2 PCB.
The pfff was sarcastic.... and I'm well aware of the difference between the Model 2 variants.

In all seriousness if I were to tackle this I would get the pinout for SHO, then get the pinout for MTT, source the connectors and build a conversion harness. To my knowledge there's nothing particularly "special" about the audio, video, power or input signals for either game that would require anything more than that.

But this is your project, you're welcome to do what you like, I'm just here to see where this thread goes and provide (hopefully) useful information where I can.
 
Right now it goes nowhere, since I havn't started yet :D
The SHO PCB which was as good as bought, was traded for a Xbox One with 5 (indie) games ... please don't ask for reaction pictures of my face when I read this.
 
Seen that, but that's a Philko bootleg PCB.
Check the screen, it says "BETA 1987", a typical ROM change from Philko.
Also check the pic of the PCB, under the Dipswitchtes you see an IC with a "Philko" marking on it.
 
yeah, but how many times would you see this cab come up for sale local to you?
It would be easier to source a legitimate PCB later down the road if you already have the functioning cab.

So I would say, go for it if the ebay bid stays reasonable ;)
 
^^ Exactly

Your main concern was about getting information about how to harness it and so on.. there you will get a working cab, which is way better than just reading 100 manuals :D

After that you can hunt a legit PCB, but then you are not location restricted, you could get it anywere (USA, Japan, Europe, Australia....) and then get it shipped to Germany.
 
After that you can hunt a legit PCB, but then you are not location restricted, you could get it anywere (USA, Japan, Europe, Australia....) and then get it shipped to Germany.
Oh if only you'd know how much trouble that already cost :D

But as I said before, there is no space for such a cab currently anywhere where I live :D
Finding the PCB only is currently the most feasable option and that alone is very hard ... since I jumped into the arcade biz, I only saw one for sale.
 
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